ing, and often dries the bulbs until they are as hard as tho petrified. If the 
temperatures are likely to be above the 50’s they should be dusted with 
DDT of 5% strength. Dust the boxes or trays thoroughly, and leave it on all 
season until planting time. This is for the control and suppression of the de- 
velopment of thrips, which become active and multiply in temperatures above 
high fifties. Some advocate the use of Napthalene flakes, as we all did once 
upon a time. However, DDT is fully as effective, if not more so, than the 
flakes, minus the dangers which attend the use of Napthalene. 
12. FURTHER CHEMICAL ATTENTIONS. (1) At Planting Time. Every 
bulb and bulblet planted should be treated at the time of planting. Such 
treatments should be designed to resist or defeat the development of disease 
and thrips. There are many recommended treatments, and there are numer- 
ous scientists experimenting widely in an effort to know more about the 
gladiolus pests, and their control. The simplest treatment, most available 
and usable by the amateur and back-door gardener is Lysol. Mix it at the rate 
of 11% tablespoonsful to the gallon of water, and leave the bulbs in it from 
three to six hours. 
(2) In The Field. The only way to be sure that thrips will not damage 
your flowers is to dust the growing plants with 5% DDT. Begin dustings 
when the plants are about six inches tall, and repeat every ten days or two 
weeks, and oftener if rains come sooner and wash the powder off, or thrips 
damage becomes evident. With DDT there is little need for other insect 
damage. 
PERENNIAL QUESTIONS ANSWERED 
1. Do glads change color? I once upon a time said positively, NO. How- 
ever, sO many have insisted that their’s did that I now say in reply, “I have 
never had them change for me in twenty-five years, and don’t know.” And 
I have yet to run across a gladiolus grower who has seen their’s change color. 
I have asked scores of inquirers if they grew their glads under label, or as mix- 
tures where these supposed changes occurred, and invariably the answers 
are always “in mixtures.” I am sure, in my own thinking, that they do not 
change, although they may deteriorate, and maybe lose some of their original 
characteristics due to age of bulbs, or climatic or soil conditions. The best 
preventive of “color changing” is to grow your glads by label. Then when one 
kind becomes too plentiful the stock can be reduced without disturbing the 
other varieties which are less prolific. You can also by that method discover 
the less hardy varieties which gradually decrease in numbers through decay 
and disease in the ground. 
2. Should varieties be kept separate in storage to prevent mixing? No. 
They do not mix in that manner. 
3. How can I lengthen the flowering season? This can be accomplished 
by three methods— 
First, divide your bulb stock into several batches, and plant at inter- 
vals, say of two or three weeks. Planting can be done as late as July first 
and secure fine bloom and fully developed bulbs. 
Second, purchase varieties of different blooming dates. That is where 
the numbers preceding the variety names may be useful. 
“March first on the farm means spring, and of course I have been looking 
my bulbs over, and have the urge to add some new bulbs. Several people were 
in this past week to see if your catalogues were in. No one can forget the 
glads that were in our store here for weeks last summer. Even the green 
houses didn’t begin to have the lovely bouquets that I could go out and cut 
every day. ....I’m sure there are at least two dozen waiting for your cata- 
logues.” (Illinois) 
“So many have come in and told me how pleased they are with the bulbs 
that they have gotten from you, and here I am without mine ever ordered. I 
am sending a check, and leave it with you to make the selections.” (Il) 
19 
