GROWING 

Every home garden should have a rose 
bed. There is no single plant that offers 
as much “‘all season’’ charm and beauty as 
does the rose. Producing blooms each 
month throughout the growing season, 
beginning with May or June and continu- 
ing on through October. 
The grower must be prepared, how- 
ever, to spray or dust his plants religiously 
every week or 10 days and to give the beds 
the special care they need. Roses are very 
susceptible to fungous diseases (mildew 
and black spot) and while control is sim- 
ple, regularity is of the utmost importance. 
PLANTING 
In areas that normally escape freezing 
winter weather, set out dormant plants 
during November and December. This en- 
ables the plant to take full advantage of 
the first early spring weather to establish 
itself in the new location. Where winters 
are more severe it is necessary to wait 
until early spring, as soon as the ground 
can be properly dug. 
Gardening Is Easier with 
MARKLE ALUMINUM 
eEATHERLITE 
GARDEN 

If your soil is just an ordinary good type 
that will raise garden vegetables, it will 
do very well for Roses. Roses like a mel- 
low soil. If it is heavy in substance, dig 
in a layer of sand 1 or 2 inches thick. Peat 
moss should be added to either light or 
heavy soil. 
The best fertilizer for preparing a new 
bed is well rotted cow manure .. . with 
the accent on ‘’well-rotted’’. If this is not 
available, increase the quantity of peat 
moss and add a good complete commercial 
fertilizer at the rate of one pound per 
bush. 
Rose plants thrive best where they can 
secure all the sunlight possible; hence, a 
shady location for planting should be 
avoided. The plants should not be close 
to trees or shrubbery. The proper distance 
to allow between plants is 18 inches. 
First, dig a hole big enough to take 
the roots when spread out, and deep 
enough to allow a good base of well mixed 
soil with peat and bonemeal added. Heap 
the mixed soil in a pyramid shaped pile, 
placing the base of the bush at the point 
of the pyramid and spreading the roots 
in a natural way down the sides. 
Fill in the hole about two-thirds of the 
way, being careful to set the bush just as 
you want it to grow. At this point, apply 
foot pressure, quickly but carefully around 
the covered roots. This firms the ground 
and assures the 
Immediately after firming soil, apply wa- 
roots are properly set. 
Let it drain away before 
filling the hole and never tamp or firm 
ter liberally. 
after watering. 
PRUNING 
There are many theories on this subject. 
So many, in fact, that seldom do you find 
“experts that agree completely. 
Therefore, we will cover only the basic 
points. 
two 
In areas with severe winter weather it 
is advisable to prune heavily as soon as 
the bush becomes dormant. This will pre- 
vent much of the danger of winter kill, 
outer ROSES | 








(TRADEMARK) 
Before setting out rose bushes, soak 
bare-rooted p!ants in Rosetone solu- 
tion. Also water established plants 
with Rosetone. Plants take hold 
quickly and bear finer, earlier roses. 
Indispensable for the rose enthusiast. 
Ya-ounce package, 25c 
3-ounce can, $1 



+ 
_ 
An 
Bushes treated in this manner should be 
mulched with peat or cow manure for pro- 
tection against deep frosts. 
In milder climates lighter pruning may 
be done in the fall or early spring. Spring 
pruning can be held off until the bush has 
actually started its new growth. When the 
new shoots are 2 inch or so long it is 
easier to decide which branches should be 
cut off. Sharp pruning tools are essential. 
This will avoid bruising the bark. The 
‘‘snap-cut’’ types of shears in which the 
cutting blade comes down on a bed of 
soft excellent under most 
conditions. 
metal are 
Severe pruning means that fewer shoots 
can develop and consequently fewer flow- 
ers are produced. These, however, are 
likely to be larger, with longer stems; 
hence, when the grower’s objective is the 
production of blooms for exhibition pur- 
poses hard cutting back is often practiced. 
On the other hand, when pruning is 
light more growth buds are left on the 
plant, more shoots develop, and in conse- 
quence more flowers. Therefore, this sys- _ 
tem is preferable when many Roses for 
garden display are desired. 
PEST CONTROL 
Fortunately, there are several all- 
purpose Rose sprays and dusts on the 
market that take care of everything from 
mildew to aphis. For spraying there is 
Rix, a calcium polysulphide material that 
controls all of the plant diseases such as 
mildew and black spot. It should be ap- 
plied at intervals of 10 days or two weeks 
starting as soon as the foliage is out and 
continued right on through until fall. A 
new “‘bug killer’’ called |lsotox Garden 
Spray, which contains 5% Lindane, can be 
mixed with Rix and applied at the same 
time. This material controls aphis, leaf 
hoppers, beetles and other insects that 
commonly attack Roses. To receive the 
full benefits of a good spraying program 
it is important that a good applicator is 
used. Too often gardeners make the mis- 
take of buying good materials and then 
not getting proper results because an in- 
effective applicator is used. One of the 
most effective applicators (and easiest to 
use) is the Sprayette. A sprayer you at- 
tach to the garden hose. Your garden 
supply dealer will show you this, and other 
efficient sprayers. 
If you are a gardener who prefers dust 
to sprays there are several complete, 
multi-purpose dusts available. Ortho Rose 
Dust is specially formulated for the con- 
trol of diseases and pests common with 
rose growing. Another complete dust for 
general garden use is Botano DeLuxe. 
Your local dealer can give you more com- 
plete information on pest problems. 
