CULTURAL NOTES ON AZALEAS, 
CAMELLIAS AND OTHER SHRUBS 
AND TREES 
The planting and care of all plants listed—for 
practical purposes—is identical. 
Any good garden soil, slightly acid, with plenty of 
rotted leaves and leaf mold from hardwood trees, such 
as oak, bays, gums, etc., worked in—is satisfactory. 
The soil must be well drained. Azaleas or Camellias, 
in fact, very few plants will tolerate standing water 
or water saturated soil. 
The actual planting is important. Never plant any 
deeper than previous planting—even an inch or two 
too deep—will produce a sickly plant. It is advisable 
to plant Azaleas and Camellias slightly higher than 
previous planting, bringing the surrounding soil up 
to the balls. This allows for gradual sinking in soft 
soil. 
Fertilizing—Silver Bay Nurseries do not recom- 
mend heavy fertilizing. If plenty of leaf mold is used 
in the soil and as a mulch—very little extra fertilizer 
is needed. Cottonseed meal, tung nut meal, or well 
rotted barnyard material are excellent and organic 
fertilizers. Too much fertilizer produces too much top 
growth and such plants do not bud or bloom well. 
Also too much fertilizer can easily injure tender root 
systems. 
Two applications of fertilizers a year is generally 
practiced—the first soon after blooming, in early 
spring—the second from middle to last of June. 
Spraying—Volck used at the rate of one part to 50 
parts of water, adding one to two taespoons of Black 
Leaf 40 to every gallon of water, is effective against 
all scale and most insect pests. Spray should never 
be used in late Fall as a freeze causes great damage 
if it hits soon after spraying. 
Watering—Both Camellias and Azaleas love a 
humid atmosphere. Use plenty of water, especially 
during the hot dry spells. Keep all newly transplanted 
stock well watered. Soak thoroughly when planting, 
and do not allow to dry out. 
Mulching—A good mulch—three to four inches—of 
leaves or pine straw is beneficial. In the winter 
bring mulch well up on and between the stems of the 
plant; damage from freeze often occurs at the base 
Oleanplant: 
RARE CAMELLIA GRAFTS 
Many varieties of the rare Camellias are slow, deli- 
cate growers on their own roots. By grafting these 
varieties to the root of a hardy, fast-growing variety of 
Camellia, we procure a fine heavy, good growing rare 
Camellia—the blooms of a graft are often finer and 
larger than those of the same variety on its own root. 
The grafts generally bud and bloom the second year 
—a few varieties seldom bud until the third year. We 
highly recommend our two and three-year-old grafts. 
Most of them are nicely budded—many of them budded 
at almost every terminal. No waiting—a year or two 
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