Where there is plenty of organic matter, blue- 
berries need little additional food. Organic fer- 
tilizers, such as cottonseed meal and dried blood, 
can be ‘applied at the rate of 14 lb. per plant and, 
on commercial fields, a chemical fertilizer mixture 
of acid reaction is often cultivated in just after 
blossoming time. One such mixture, used at the 
rate of 400 lbs. per acre, consists of nitrate of soda 
100 lbs., finely ground phosphate rock 260 Ibs., 
sulphate of potash 40 lbs. 
Removal of the first crop of fléwers promotes 
plant growth, but no other pruning is called for 
until the bushes are bearing well, about the third 
or fourth year. Thereafter, in winter, old woody 
stems that have borne several crops should be cut 
back to the ground, the center of the bush opened 
up slightly, and weak, twiggy growth removed. 
In proper locations, blueberries do not need 
watering. If the leaves turn brown and wither 
around the edges, indicating insufficient moisture, 
soak the soil to a depth of 6 in. every week or so. 
If the summer foliage shows a reddish or purplish 
tinge, excess water and the need of better drainage 
is indicated. 
Propagation. Nursery grown plants with 
compact root systems are best. But wild ones can 
be transplanted and cut back severely. If desired, 
they can, when established, be grafted or budded. 
Desirable plants can sometimes be increased by 
cutting the tops close to the ground and mounding 
the stubs 2 in. deep with a 4-1 sand-peat mix- 
ture kept moist. If new shoots develop roots in 
this medium, they can, the next spring, be re- 
moved, headed back to three buds, and planted - 
in 3 in. pots. Put in a greenhouse or ‘frame shaded 
from direct sunlight and kept at about 65 deg. F.; 
keep them moist and moderately ventilated, and 
as soon as they show a second growth of twigs, 
you can consider them safely started. 
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