Planting the Seed 
_ Some fanciers plant their seed where it is to grow—in furrows right in the field (I prefer 
this method), for it is likely one will get about eighty percent bloom on first year plants, 
however, it has some disadvantages for seed continues to germinate for several seasons and one 
must be prepared to take care of these later germinations. If a special seed bed or cold frame 
is used to grow seedlings one may expect better germination in the use of Vermiculite mixed 
with about one-fourth part of peat, fine sand and soil. One "secret" of good germination is, 
of course, enough moisture after the seeds are planted until all germination has ceased. About 
three to four weeks after the seedlings have germinated they should be lifted from the seedling 
boxes or beds and quickly transplanted in the garden where they will stay until they have 
bloomed. This early transplanting will help to insure a great percentage of first year bloom. 
Moisture at transplanting time is most important—if the roots become dry and the seedlings 
wilt it may retard their growth or kill them. Protection from extreme heat may be wise, too, 
using strawberry boxes or plant-caps until they have become established again. Some fanciers 
advocate the use of root hormones when transplanting—such as ‘'Transplantone,"’ etc. Needless 
to say the rows of the beds should be prepared in advance with rich garden soil and these 
beds should be moist and should be kept moist until the newly set plants are established and 
growing—then periodical waterings of once or twice weekly will suffice. Iris are sun lovers and 
these small seedlings will grow faster if allowed full sunlight. Shade or spots where tree roots 
sap the soil will grow plants, but may not produce bloom. Rare seed, or difficult crosses pro- 
ducing but a few seed, should be planted either in boxes or pots where the seed may be kept 
as long as it is firm. It might be well to sift the soil from time to time (after the germination 
period has ended each season) to see if the seed is still solid—if it has turned soft or has 
rotted there is no need, certainly, to hold these over. However, if the seed remains firm it may 
germinate atter several years. | have found a great many of Wm. Mohr's seeds germinate the 
second year and have had some come the third year, but | have seed, firm, that is still in the 
pots after five years. It has been known for seed to germinate aiter being planted seventeen 
years. The pure Oncocyclus seed seem to germinate with difficulty. My experience has indicated 
second year germination, however, | have not planted the seed while still moist when first 
removed from pods. | have made it a practice, however, to plant all Wm. Mohr seed in pots 
immediately after they are removed from pods. And speaking of Wm. Mohr—those who work 
with it will have .a great many good looking pods shrivel up over night, apparently, with no 
seeds in them. This same thing may be true with crosses where Oncocyclus pollen is used on 
tall bearded sorts, but if one or two seeds are obtained and a seedling results the thrill of 
achievement is pay enough even though the resulting seedlings may not be worthwhile in 
themselves; they may be fertile and their seedlings may give new breaks, hybrid vigor or a hope 
for something exciting in future years—after all, such dreams keep some of we so-called hybrid- 
izers going! | would suggest, however, with rare seedlings such as the Wm. Mohr or other 
Oncocyclus derivatives to leave them undisturbed a year before transplanting. 
Some fanciers have wondered about hastening germination and seedling growth by planting 
‘the seed in greenhouses. This has not proven very satisfactory. However, if seed is planted 
immediately the pods begin to turn, yellow germination may be improved. The greenhouse might 
be useful in the sustained winter growth of rare seedlings that may be planted in pots, however, 
such small seedlings in the field should be given some winter protection—a mulch of excelsior, 
leaves or marsh hay to prevent thawing, freezing and inevitable heaving. 
But enough! Let us consider the various color classes, again, and | will to the best of my 
ability, list some of the known fine parents, or prospective parents for these colors. 
Whites 
Perhaps all of our good present-day-whites stem from Kashmire White, which is from 
mesopotamica blood—the line which gave us the tetraploid (48 Chromosome count) a race of 
bigger, and better branched iris. Purissima has proven a wonderful parent in this color—being 
the pod parent of such famous iris as Snow Flurry, Lady Boscawen, Priscilla, And Thou and a 
host of others. Its children in whites and blues are producing splendid offspring. Easter Morn 
has been a good parent for whites, and it is related to Purissima, but not derived from it. 
Some of the blues, derived from whites will be usetul parents for whites. Gloriole has been 
useful for producing whites—it being the parent to White Goddess and Katherine Fay to 
mention the whites and to Cloud Castle, Alicia and my own Sky Tint to mention three of the 
newer light blues, and these should all be good in the breeding of both whites and blues. 
Spanish Peaks is descended from Purissima, and its size may be very useful with other lines in 
the production of fine whites. Vigil is a beautiful white with a long season of bloom—its blood 
stemming, no doubt, from W. R. Dykes through Gudrun and therefore containing mesopotamica 
blood from this line as well as Venus de Milo. It is quite apparent the important part Snow 
Flurry is playing, and will play, in the breeding of whites, as well as other colors, for already 
[27] 
