GRAVOIS MILLS, MISSOURI 2 
HOW TO GROW GOOD GLADS 

ON ARRIVAL—Open all bulb containers at once in order to permit proper 
evaporation of moisture. Do not change temperatures suddenly. If or- 
der arrives in cold weather, open package in a cool room. Store in a cool dry 
place as mentioned later. 
TIME TO PLANT—Gladioli may be planted over a long period of time. 
They are semi-hardy and can withstand light frosts. In Missouri one can 
feel quite safe in planting any time from the first of April until the first 
day of July. To prolong the blooming period make successive plantings every 
few weeks, and plant the early varieties first, and the late varieties last. 
The bulbs may be planted from three to six inches deep. Bulblets from 
two to three inches deep. Shallow planting facilitates digging in the fall, but 
leaves the plant at the mercy of drouth and wind throughout the summer. 
As a general rule one may plant deeper in light, sandy soil, and shallower in 
heavy clays. 
CULTURE—If you want clean, healthy bulbs, free of scab, be careful of your 
fertilizers. The best fertilizer is well rotted cow manure. It.should be 
well mixed. with the soil, preferably the fall before. Never allow chemical 
fertilizers to come into direct contact with your bulbs. Either work it into 
the bottom of the trench, with a layer of dirt between the bulbs and the fer- 
tilizer, or work it into the soil beside the rows after the plants are up. 
Glads should be planted in the open, away from shrubs and trees. When 
the plants come up they should be kept constantly free of weeds. You can- 
not hoe or cultivate too often, but the cultivation should be shallow in order 
to avoid injury to the roots. Never allow a crust to form after watering, or 
after a rain. 
Glad bulbs require plenty of water, but should not be planted in soggy, 
undrained soil. Never sprinkle lightly, soak the ground so that there is mois- 
ture down around the roots. 
DISEASE AND PESTS—Glads are particularly hardy, and can be successfully 
grown by any willing gardener. However, they have a few diseases, and 
one “pest,” against which every glad grower should guard. There are sev- 
eral kinds of scab and dry rot to which glad bulbs are subject. They are 
very much like potatoes in that clean bulbs, plantéd on clean land each year, 
will never contract scab, unless you have unwisely used too much fresh 
manure, or allowed chemical fertilizers to touch the bulbs. I heartily recom- 
mend that all glad growers disinfect their bulbs before planting. One of the 
best disinfectants is bichloride of mercury, often called corrosive sublimate. 
Dissolve one ounce in a little warm water, add this to about eight gallons 
of water. Remember, corrosive sublimate is a deadly poison, and it attacks 
metal. Mix the above solution in a wooden tub, or an old jar. Stir with a 
wooden paddle. Place bulbs in a sack and hold under the solution with a 
board weighted with rocks. Soak fer at least eight hours. I soak over night, 
and plant the next morning. If a large quantity of bulbs are being disin- 
fected it is best to make a new solution after each batch has been soaked, or 
else add one-half of the original strength. 
New Improved Ceresan is also a good disinfectant. It is a serious poison, 
but may be mixed in a metal container. I use three-fourths pound of the 
powder, and one ounce (or three heaping tablespoons) of Dreft to 25 gallons 
of water. Add water, a little at a time, to powder, and stir until powder 
is held in suspension. Do not breathe the dust, or get paste on the hands. 
The final solution does no serious injury to the hands. Soak bulbs for 15 
minutes, bulblets for 30 minutes, and plant the same day. Wash powder off 
from all unplanted bulbs. This treatment is probably not effective as a 
thrips treatment since time of soaking is tco short. Most growers do not 
soak more than three batches of bulbs before replacing the mixture. 
