3 PATHFINDER GLAD GARDENS 

Formaldehyde is also a good disinfectant. Use one-half pint of liquid to 
15 gallons of water. This is also a poison, but does not attack metal. Soax 
bulbs for the usual eight hours. 
The Bichloride of Mercury or Formaldehyde treatment is effective in kill- 
ing any thrips, or thrips eggs, which may be found on the bulb at planting 
time. Due to proper methods of control, the thrips menace is disappearing. 
However, it is easier to prevent this menace than to cure it. Thrips destroy 
the foliage and prevent blooming; then, they may harbor on the bulbs through 
winter storage. They multiply rapidly at temperatures above 59 degrees. 
If you wish to be safe I advise the following four-fold line of attack: 
First, use every precaution not to have any thrips on your bulbs at dig- 
ging time. Leave all tops in the field, and burn as soon as possible. 
Second, assume that some did get on your bulbs, and that you have them 
in storage. Large growers will fumigate with gas. Small growers wili use 
the safer Napthalene treatment. This is to be used during storage only, while 
the bulbs are dormant. Sprinkle one ounce of flakes per hundred large buibs. 
Do not place on the bulbs until they are thoroughly cured, and be sure to 
shake out before the bulbs begin to sprout or get new root growth in the 
Spring. If you can keep the temperature above 50 degrees for at least sev- 
eral weeks of the treatment all thrip eggs will hatch, and you will get a hun- 
dred per cent kill. 
Third step. Assume once more that you still have thrips on your bulbs 
at planting time. Then use the corrosive sublimate or Formaldehyde treat- 
ment as previously explained. This will destroy thrips as well as their eggs. 
If you plant immediately, you-may be absolutely certain that your bulbs 
went into the soil free of thrips, or any disease. 
The fourth step is a measure to combat the migratory thrips—the ones 
that might fly in over your neighbor’s fence. There are several sprays that 
are recommended. <A gocd spray is made up of one ounce of tartar emetic, 
two ounces of brown suger and three gallons of water. These sprays should 
be applied et weekly intervals until the flower spikes begin to show color. 
Spray with a fine mist. 
If you are one who loves to do things right, you will take all of the 
above four steps, and see that your neighbor takes them with you. They 
are not expensive. But it 1s expensive to buy bulbs, and get no blooms. If 
for some reason you cannot keep in step all through the journey just men- 
tioned, at least take the third sey: for it is the charm. It is the key to the. 
whole problem. : 
DIGGING AND STORAGE—Bulbs should be dug when the foliage begins to 
turn yellow. This is usually about six weeks after blooming. Bulbs. 
should not be left in the ground after the plant has died. Varieties that were 
planted for late blooms may have to be dug before the six weeks period for 
maturity of bulb has elapsed. When the early frosts kill the foliage they’ 
should be dug anyway. Never carry the foliage into your curing or storage 
room—it may harbor thrips. Clip the tops close to the bulb, and burn when 
dry. Spread the bulbs three or four inches deep in screen-bottomed trays, or 
thinner if the tray is not ventilated. Cure for several weeks either in the 
open, or indoors, but have plenty of fresh air. Protect from intense sun or 
frost. After curing you may sprinkle on Napthalene flakes. 
Store for the winter in a_ cool, dry place. Examine occasionally-—if 
bulbs are molding, give more ventilation. If condition is serious, expose to 
direct sunlight to kill the mold. 
At your leisure moments during the winter you may remove the old bulb 
and root growth. Before Spring, shake out the Napthalene flakes. 
Your bulbs should now be ready for Spring planting, at which time don't 
forget the Bichloride of Mercury or other suitable treatment. 
