sometimes used as a source of potash but are not to be recommended owing to their 
variability in potassium (potash) content. 
As a general thing, it is advisable to broadcast an 0-20-20 fertilizer over the 
garden about two weeks before planting. Five or six pounds per houndred square feet 
of space is a good application. It should be thoroughly mixed into the soil when dig- 
ging as the phosphate element is not readily moved down into the soil by water 
action. In some instances, owing to unfavorable soil reactions, it may be advisable to 
concentrate this application in the hole as it is prepared for planting. In this case, 
mix a good handful of the fertilizer in the soil under and around the plant. Avoid 
having any of the fertilizer in direct contact with the roots. This latter method will 
often remedy the failure of plants to make good clumps of roots. 0-20-20 is a commer- 
cial fertilizer formula indicating; no nitrogen elements, 20 per cent phosphorus and 
20 per cent potash. 
In average garden soil it will not be advisable to apply a nitrogeneous fertilizer 
at pianting time, but if experience has proven that satisfactory growth early in the 
season is not possible without it, a small amount of barn-yard manures (well rotted) 
may be mixed with the soil at planting time. Nitrogen fertilizers are more satisfactorily 
used later in the season, after buds are formed, to give extra size to the blooms. 
A small quantity scattered lightly around the plant, not nearer than a foot from the 
stalk, and watered into the soil will decidedly increase flower size. One or two more, 
very light, applications at intervals of a week or ten days may further increase size. 
Dried blood and sheep manures are commonly available sources of nitrogen at most 
supply dealers. It should be noted that with the application of a nitrogen fertilizer the 
keeping qualities of the roots is reduced. Each subsequent application further reduces 
this keeping property and excessive application will injure the plant, and in cases, 
destroy it. Also, such applications tend to reduce the vitality of the stock for the 
following year. It will be well for each grower to determine which is of greater im- 
portance to him; extreme size, or good keeping roots of high vitality. Many leading 
exhibitors sacrifice their stock for utmost size of bloom, and purchase, or grow, other 
stock for the following year. Others try to strike a happy medium and still others avoid 
nitrogen fertilizers for "forcing'' and depend on heavy disbudding and pruning for com- 
parable results. 
Regardless of which of the above plans are followed, some disbudding must be 
employed to bring out all the size possible in a bloom. After the buds appear it will 
be noted that they usually come in clusters of three. The one in the center is generally 
the strongest. Remove the other two and the effort that the plant would expend in 
producing flowers from them goes to the terminal bud which is left. The next two 
or three sets of branches (at each leaf below the terminal bud) may also be removed, 
further increasing the size of the bloom to be produced. Be sure, however, that at least 
one set of branches is left to produce the next flowers. 
Many varieties have a tendency to grow straight up with a single stalk. If a 
bushy plant is desired pinch out the top of the plant when it is about eighteen inches 
tall. Other varieties may produce too many branches in which case some may be cut 
out, Plants which have been pinched out may be dis-budded as per instructions above. 
Successful control of insects is of prime importance in most localities, owing to the 
direct damage they do to the plants and the indirect damage caused by the insects 
carrying diseases from one plant to another. The first principles of effective control 
are proper insecticides and thorough applications at frequent intervals. 
DDT has proven so highly successful as a control for many of the insects infesting 
dahlias that it is now the basis of nearly all our insect control recommendations. On 
those insects not controlled by DDT, we recommend a material that is compatible 
with DDT and can be used in the same spray or dust. Wherever DDT is recommended, 
either a 3% dust or a spray containing 44 pound of actual DDT per hundred gallons is 
meant unless otherwise specified. 
In the pest control program at our Rocky River farm, we use a spray as it is some- 
what more effective and the material remains effective for a somewhat longer period 
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