Gladiolus Care and Culture 
(Revised to September, 1949) 
When bu:bs are received they should be opened at once and stored in a cool, dry place. About a week later 
check them over for frost damage. The best storage temperature is 40-50 degrees. 
PLANTING TIME: In general, plant when the soil is warmed up in the spring. A good rule for first plant- 
ing is when the Maple leaves begin to open. In Central New York it may be any time from April Ist to July Ist, 
depend:ng upon the time you want the plant to bloom. As the blooming season varies, so the planting time must 
vary if you wish to hit the shows. Comparative blooming dates are given for each variety listed in the retail list. 
These are as given in the North American Gladiolus Classification. 
THE BEST PLACE TO PLANT: Is where they will have the full sun. They do their best if they have 
no competition from trees or shrubs nearby. A soil that will grow good Potatoes will grow good Glads. Glads are 
very tolerant in their soil requirements but good drainage is essential to best performance. They like lots of water, 
but they cannot stand wet feet. They grow best in neutral soil but soil slightly acid or slightly alkaline will also 
produce good bloom. ! 
DISEASE AND INSECT CONTROL: There are two forms of trouble in Gladiolus, insect and fungous 
diseases. The only insect which causes extensive trouble is the Gladiolus thrip. Th’‘s is best controlled by 5% DDT 
of which we will write later. The majority of the diseases of Gladiolus are fungus produced and are controlled very 
readily as follows: Fungous diseases are spread by tiny spores. These can be checked and in most instances killed by 
the use of some dip before plant’ng. The one we most thoroughly recommend is New Improved Ceresan. Lysol, 
Corrosive Sublimate and Ceresan M are used but we use and prefer New Improved Ceresan. 
NEW IMPROVED CERESAN FORMULA: One ounce of New Improved Ceresan, 3 tablespoons of 
Grasselli Spreader-Sticker (or 1% box of DREFT), 3 gallons of water. For larger quantities: 4 lb. New Improved 
Cerecan, 5 tablespoons of Grasselli Spreader-Sticker (or 1 box of DREFT), 25 gallons of water. Soak the bulbs 15 
minutes. bulblets 30 minutes and DO NOT EXCEED THIS TIME. Let drain and plant the same day while wet 
if possible. If you cannot plant within a very few hours, rinse thoroughly and do not soak again. Severe losses can 
happen if you fail to follow the above directions very carefully. To mix above formula easily, add the spreader to 
the Ceresan with a small amount of water and stir until a smooth paste is formed. Then add the rest of the water 
slowly, stirring constantly. When stirring this, use a wooden paddle. The concentrated solution can seriously burn 
your hands although the weaker dip is not especially dangerous. The solution is good until it is used up. BUT do 
not soak more than 15 minutes for bulbs and 30 minutes for bulblets. This is not a thrip control. Use DDT for 
control of thrips. 
CERESAN M: Ceresan M is a stronger and faster working material than New Improved Ceresan. Do not 
soak longer than 5 minutes for bulbs and 15 minutes for bulblets in this solution. 
LYSOL OR CRESOL COMPOUND: For most amateurs probably the safest and easiest dip is 1 tea- 
spoon of Lysol or Cresol Compound to a quart of water; or 4 tablespoons to 4 gallons of water; 1 pint to 25 gallons 
of water. Bulbs should be soaked for from 3-6 hours and bulblets 12-14 hours. Plant the same day as treated while 
wet if possible. Solution is only good for five lots. 
Have A Supply of Dipping Materials Shipped With Your Order 
SOIL PREPARATION: A good coat of well-rotted stable manure plowed or spaded under the fall before 
planting is a very good start. The soil should be plowed or spaded deeply to give the roots opportunity to secure 
food and moisture at a lower level. If manure cannot be obtained, peat moss can be used for humus with a good 
commercial fertilizer such as 4-8-8 or 4-12-8 for bloom production and 4-8-12 for production of bulbs. Any garden 
compost will serve as humus or a cover crop of rye, clover, soybeans, or rye grass plowed under the year before is 
excellent. 
For bloom production on medium to heavy soil, one-half the fertilizer should be broadcast on top before plowing 
or spading and the balance put on before fitting the ground. This should give excellent results. For exhibition 
bloom some like to put part of the fertilizer in the bottom of the trench mixed with the soil, and an inch or so of 
peat moss on top of it for humus. Most of our soils are deficient in humus and peat moss is an excellent aid for 
retaining moisture in light, sandy soils and loosening the heavier clay types. Most of our special planting plots 
would be much improved by this method. It is especially valuable in growing bulblets or Gladiolus seed. 
PLANTING BULBS: Bulbs may be planted 3-6 inches apart in the row (not less than twice the diameter 
of the bulb) with rows 20 inches to three feet apart, depending on the method of cultivation. For show blooms, 6 
inches apart is best with rows at least 30 inches apart. Depth, for large bulbs, 4-5 inches in heavy soil, 6 inches in 
lighter soil. Small bulbs 3 inches deep and bulblets 11% to 2 inches deep. Be sure to give plenty of water before 
and during the blooming season. 
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