‘BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
Easy to grow wherever conditions 
are favorable for late cabbage, and 
requires same culture. As sprouts 
begin to form remove lower leaves 
so that all nourishment sent to lower 
stem will be forced into the sprouts. 
Do not use until after heads have 
matured. 
Long Island Improved—Compact, uni- 
form dwarf size plants. Cabbage-like 
sprouts 144” to 1¥2” in diameter. One 
of the most dependable varieties. 90 
days. 
CABBAGE 
Sow seed in drills 6” apart across 
the bed, dropping the seed 5 to 6 
to the inch. Firm soil after covering, 
then water thoroughly. Keep beds 
moist but not soaking wet. Seed 
germinates 3 to 8 days depending on 
temperature. Transplant to open 
ground when plants have made 
fourth pair of leaves. Space 12” x 
24’. Use plenty of good commercial 
fertilizer, Cultivate frequently, every 
5 or 6 days until cabbages are large. 
FOR LATE CABBAGE 
Direct-seed four months before crop 
is wanted. Or start plants indoors 30 
days before needed, transplanting 
outdoors 90 days before frost. Don’t 
water freely when heads are nearly 
filled, as this promotes splitting; ir- 
rigate only enough to keep plants 
growing well. 
Charleston Wakefield — Pointed-head, 
large, hardy. Splendid first early cab- 
bage for home use. Plants medium, 
vigorous, slightly spreading. Leaves 
rather large, smooth and thick. 71-75 
days. 
Copenhagen Market—Excellent, early 
short season type. Short stems, 6¥-in., 
34% to 4-lb. heads. 65 to 70 days. 
Early Jersey Wakefield—Pointed heads, 
small and firm, Earliest pointed variety. 
Plants compact. 62 days. 
Early Flat Dutch—Good second early 
variety. Plants medium. Very vigorous. 
Large, flat solid heads 6-in. deep, 11 
to 12-in. in diameter, 11 to 12-lb. 90 
days. 
Golden Acre—Extra early variety pro- 
ducing uniform well-balanced head. 
Weighs about 3 lbs. Excellent quality. 
65 days. 
Glory of Enkhuizen—Large heads, 
round, solid, gray-green outer leaves. 
Excellent quality, mid-season variety. 
Good shipper, for local markets and 
sauerkraut, 77 days. 
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Some carrots reach deeply into the soil for food and moisture while others widen them- 
selves in the topsoil. Above are comparative sizes and shapes of carrots. (1) Chantenay; 
(2) Imperator; (3) Danvers Half Long; (4) Red Cored Chantenay; (5) Oxheart. 

CHINESE CABBAGE 
Must never be grown as a spring 
crop since it will only go to seed. 
Plant after June 15, as days are get- 
ting shorter, then it will head. An 
excellent succession crop to follow 
early peas. 
Chihili or Improved Pekin—Depend- 
able, early. Solid, tapered heads, 3 to 
4-in, thick, 18 to 20-in. long. 75 days. 
CARROTS 
Use sandy loam enriched by manure 
the previous year, if possible; but 
any good land if deeply and well 
worked will produce a good crop. 
Sow seed as early as ground can be 
worked. Sow seed 2” to 1” deep in 
drills 16” to 18” apart. Press soil 
firmly above seed. When plants ap- 
pear use cultivator or wheel hoe 
and thin from 2” to 6” apart, accord- 
ing to type. Keep cultivated. 
Chantenay, Red Cored (fr)—Root has 
thick shoulder and tapers to slight 
stump root, S-in. long. Red cored. 70 
days. 
Danvers Half Long—Sweet, tender roots, 
6 to 7-in. long tapering to a blunt point. 
Fine for storing. 75 days. 
Improved Imperator 
tender. 
(fr)—Fine-grained, 
Rich orange, indistinct core. 

Roots smooth, tapered to semi-blunt. 77 
days. 
Long Orange (Stock Carrot)—Large, 
strong tops. 11” roots taper to a point. 
Red-orange color. Flesh similar in color 
to exterior with core of lighter shade. 
88 days. 
Oxheart or Guerande—Excellent for 
shallow soil, easy to harvest. Chunky, 
tender and sweet. Bright orange. Keeps 
well. 72 to 75 days. 
CAULIFLOWER 
Packet, 25¢ 
Needs rich soil and abundant water- 
ing. Cultivate same as cabbage but 
protect heads from sunlight to in- 
sure the prized white curd. This is 
done by gathering leaves together 
loosely as soon as heads begin form- 
ing, and tying them at the top. 
Early Snowball (fr)—Best and most 
widely used early variety. Medium, 
firm compact heads of fine flavor. 6-7 
inches in diameter. 55 days. 
ALL PRICES IN THIS CATALOG ARE 
SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT 
NOTICE 


PROPER GARDEN SPADING A REAL ART 
When the soil can be crumbled in your 
hand it is dry enough to spade. Spading 
wet soil forms clods that are difficult to 
break up. Mould a ball of soil in your 
hand and pai it to make a mud pie. If the 
pie holds together the soil is too wet to 
spade. 
If you are going to tackle a sizable job 
of spading, it’s good strategy to work at it 
only an hour a day, Then you'll be done 
before you realize it and the job will not 
be so exhausting. 
There's a trick to spading for best re- 
sults. Drive the spade straight down. Dig 
a trench and lay the soil from the trench, 
aside at the end, Now spade with the 
blade not parallel to the trench but at 
right angles to it. Lift it up and turn the 
spade over so that the top soil, humus 
and plant food which you have added are 
dropped underneath and into the trench 
you have spaded previously. 
When the last row is dug, carry the soil 
removed from the first row to fill in the 
last trench. If the good soil is deep, spade 
to a depth of 8 to 12 inches, If the top 
soil is shallow, avoid digging up the sub- 
soil. Pulverize the soil, breaking up clods 
with iron rake and removing stones or 
trash. Just before planting any area of the 
garden, work that part finely and smooth 
off with a rake before laying out the rows. 
