Bee GAIsEoR MU MS Gb 
INSECT CONTROL 
A regularly followed preventive program is essential if Mums 
are to be kept insect-free. If they aren’t kept clean in the early 
stages, spider or aphis will attack opening blooms where they 
often can’t be controlled at all. Under glass in fall, winter and 
early spring, Parathion bombing (aerosols) monthly will normal- 
ly keep Mums clean. It may take more frequent bombing to clean 
up a bad infestation of insects. In late spring and summer the 
house should be bombed every two weeks. For outdoor Mums 
and Pomps we have had excellent success with the following 
spray: 
Per 10 gallons 
24 ozs. 15% parathion wettable powder. : 
90 c. c. Detex (DDT)—especially effective against thrip. 
18 c. c. A-S-3 (or any good spreader). 
2 oz. Fermate (for control of leaf diseases). 
Where aphis are found on open blooms, Nicofume pressure 
fumigators are effective and not apt to cause injury. Spider on 
open blooms of most varieties can be controlled with Parathion 
bombs, if care is used. Main point is the blooms and foliage 
must be absolutely dry at time of application. House humidity 
should be low as possible, too, walks dry. Temperature between 
70-80 degrees. 
1. MIDGE. We found the following a very effective control: 
Apply sodium selenate to soil at recommended rate (14 gram 
per square foot if concentrated powder is used). We put this on 
with a Hozon siphon applicator. Wash foliage with water after 
application to avoid burn. This gave slight injury on one bench 
where stock plants were not yet well established; not serious. 
Besides that, we dusted weekly with DDT dust—for nearly two 
‘months. No new galls were seen after 30 days. 
2. RED SPIDER. Troublesome, especially in warm weather. 
Daily “wetting down” of foliage helps. We depend largely on 
Parathion bombs for control of spider, aphis, and most other 
Mum insects. Vapotone spray 1 to 800 is excellent—use a good 
spreader. 
3. THRIP. Detex or any good DDT spray is very effective. 
4. APHIS. Parathion bomb (or spray) very good. Vapotone 
spray 1 to 800 with spreader is also excellent. 
5. LEAF MINER. Nicotine liquid used 1 to 200 with soap 
spreader is the best control. 
6. MEALY BUG. Dimite spray used 1 to 800 with a good 
spreader is very effective. Vapotone 1 to 800 with a spreader is 
good. 
7. LEAF ROLLER (tier), and cut worms. Detex or any good 
DDT spray. 
8. FOLIAR NEMATODE. Select cuttings from clean plants 
and bench only in sterilized soil. Also, if infestation occurs, keep 
foliage dry at all times. Splashing water spreads the worms. Some 
infestation may be cleaned up with sodium selenate. Apply at 
strength recommended on container 2 weeks after planting. Then 
repeat in another 2 weeks. May injure some varieties. 
9. GRASSHOPPERS. Chlorodine powders are best. 
PRINCIPAL DISEASES 
1. VERTICILLIUM (Seidewitz Disease) is a serious Mum 
problem. Starting at edges, leaves turn yellow, dry up—usually 
from the bottom of the plant first. Some varieties take it worse 
than others. Only known control is to plant cuttings which have 
been cultured against it—and be sure to use sterilized soil. Steam 
preferred. 
2. STUNT. Principal symptoms are dwarfing of plant and 
blooms to about 14 to 2/3 normal size, earlier bud and bloom 
formation, and on red varieties a noticeably paler color. Otherwise 
plants are normal. Stunt does not cause any shriveling of leaves 
or rotting of the plant. 
Control: First start with cuttings nearly free as possible of the 
disease. Thorough steaming of soil to 180° for 30 minutes is 
vital to prevent re-infection from the soil. Rigid insect control 
is equally important in view of possible spread of the disease 
from healthy to clean plants. Like most diseases it attacks cer- 
tain varieties worse than others. Once a plant is infected, there 
is no cure. 
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FOR ES TOs RSIOS iTS 
Puc 
WEST CHICAGO 
ILLINOIS 
3. SEPTORIA. Small dark brown spots, increasing in size, 
finally causing leaves to drop. Attacks lower leaves first. Most 
serious on outdoor plantings. Delay propagating till long shoots 
are available; take only a short cutting out of the tip. Dip cuttings 
in Fermate, 1 lb. per 100 gallons of water. Keep foliage dry in 
sand and clear thru growing period. After planting, spray plants 
with Fermate 1 lb. per 100 gallons every ten days till plants are 
18 inches high. Spraying is especially important on outdoor plant- 
ings in rainy seasons. 
4. MILDEW. Sulfur dust is effective if no colored flowers are 
present. Malachite green spray may be used. Greenol (California 
Spray and Chemical Co.) with Santomerse S$, 1 to 2000, has been 
recommended recently as being very effective. 
We have often noticed mildew on Mums growing in tight, poor- 
ly drained soil. We don’t know exactly what the connection is, but 
usually cultivating the wet packed soil to help it dry and aerate 
will get plant into growth—and clear up the mildew, too. 
5. RUST. Same spray program as was recommended for 
Septoria leaf spot. 
GOOD DOPE ON POT MUM GROWING 
Culture of potted Chrysanthemums is so entirely unlike grow- 
ing them as a cut flower that—well, each season a few fellows 
get into trouble trying to handle them like cut flowers. They 
make a mighty fine fall pot plant when properly handled, and 
many are grown that way. If you're interested in trying them, 
here’s a growing schedule worked out by a specialist, Hans Zoerb 
of LaCrosse (Wisconsin) Floral Co. It’s based on quite a few 
years’ experience, and has consistently brought them in on time. 
TO FLOWER AT NORMAL DATES 
1.. Order cuttings to arrive July 8, pot three to a 6-inch pot. 
ais all varieties (a soft pinch) 2 days after potting (no 
ater). 
3. Top all varieties again soon as breaks are long enough to 
take a pinch. Depends on variety. Normally first week of 
August. : 
4. Last pinch: follow these dates carefully. 
Blazing Gold, Aug. 21 Smith’s Late White, Sept. 13 
Bonnaffon Deluxe, Sept. 3 Tobin’s Yellow, Sept. 13 
Granite State, Aug. 21 Sungold, Sept. 6 
Queen of Pinks, Aug. 28 
5. Feeding: Vigoro soon as plants get under way; ammonium 
sulphate later. 
FIRST SHADING—TO FLOWER EARLY SEPTEMBER 
1. Order cuttings to arrive May 10. Varieties: Granite State, 
Blazing Gold, Gypsy. 
2. First pinch, May 23. 
3. Second pinch, June 13. 
4. On July 3 make final pinch, and start black cloth shading. 
SECOND SHADING TO FLOWER IN MID-SEPTEMBER 
1. Order cuttings to arrive May 20. Varieties: Blazing Gold, 
Yellow Beauty, Bonaffon Deluxe, Gypsy, Granite State. 
2. First pinch, June 11. 
3. Second pinch, June 29. 
4. On July 17 make final pinch, and start black cloth shading. 
THIRD SHADING TO FLOWER MID- TO LATE OCTOBER 
1. Order cuttings to arrive June 10. Varieties: Yellow Beauty, 
Bonnaffon Deluxe, Little America, Gypsy, Queen of Pinks. 
2. First pinch, June 21. 
3. Second pinch, July. 1. 
4. On August 10 make final pinch, and start shading. 
HARDY MUMS FOR RETAIL GROWERS 
The plan generally used is to order cuttings for delivery in late 
April. When received, they are either potted to 214 or 3 inch 
pots, or better yet to a 2 x 2 or 214 x 3 inch veneer plant band. 
Banded plants can be sold band and all. These started plants can 
be sold for garden planting soon as danger of frost is over; and 
from this early start should make fine specimens by fall. 
Any plants that might be left over by early June can be lined 
out in the field where you can give them water when it gets real 
dry. They can be dug and moved to your customers gardens just 
before they flower. The dwarfer kinds are often dug, potted and 
sold as attractive pot plants during October. 
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