VENTURA EPIPHYLLUM GARDENS 27 


elegantissimus. H. speciosissimus species 
(often called “speciosus”) (showy) and 
best known by its popular name, “sun ce- 
reus,” derived from its brilliant coloring 
of red and vivid cerise-violet center. This 
was used in many of the early crosses, 
which resulted in well-known varieties 
like Peacocki and Jenkinsoni. H. cinna- 
barinus (species) which bears small scar- 
let flowers, was used by Mr. Knebel and 
the resulting crosses were introduced by 
him as “Phyllocereus.” Under this head 
come Prof. Ebert, Gertrud Kuhne, Erlauer 
Kind and many others, including our own 
Champion. These have the flowers of the 
Epiphyllum and a plant structure which 
may be flat or ribbed, with or without 
spines in the areoles. 
We have observed that to establish or 
“fix” an Epiphyllum variety from a muta- 
tion often takes as long as to raise a plant 
from seed. Most cases take three years 
flowering to prove that they are truly dif- 
ferent, for epiphyllum flowers are quite 
changeable. 
The plant stem bearing the mutation 
should be cut reasonably close to its areole, 
then propagated, as the flower may change 
from one areole to another. Watch closely 
for any sign of return to the original 
flower. 
One example of Mutation is the beau- 
tiful and popular Moncherie, which has an 
amber background with a red border and 
many red stripes radiating from the sides 
of the petals to the base. This is one of the 
first of its kind and was developed in our 
gardens, a mutation of Amber Queen. On 
display we have an extra large specimen 
of Amber Queen bearing the two kinds of 
flowers at once. However, all prunings 
from this plant are destroyed; cuttings are 
made from well established plants. 
We are now flowering seedling plants 
where Moncherie was used as a parent. 
These seedlings have the characteristic 
stripings but different colors. 
Epiphyllums are easily influenced by all 
elements, so that anyone may find that he, 
too, has a mutation which may be supe- 
rior to the plant from which it came. 
New Development in Mutations 
Pronounced Doubling of Petals 
An Origination of Theresa Monmonier 
CRYSANTHUS (T.M.M.). Flowered for the first 
time in 1941, this variety has undergone many 
changes through the years. Its progress has been 
interesting to watch, it is not quite so double as 
at first, but some fine characteristics persist. 
Double flower, tones of oriental red. 
DOUBLOCON (T.M.M.). A double flower of the 
Chrysanthemum type. Color an unusual reddish 
purple (Dianthus purple) like a peony. Inner 
petals one-half inch long, increasing to three 
inches on the outside. Center peony purple deep- 
ening to Dianthus purple on outer petals. Eye 
closed and filled, showing stigma lobes and an- 
thers. Filament and pistil hardly visible. Plant 
growth interesting, very much twisted. This va- 
riety is very hardy. 
CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS 
All epiphytes, without exception, require 
a free movement of air and light. Plants 
under cultivation in cold climates require 
more protection and must be kept above 
32 degrees. Where plants are housed in a 
glass house, the best temperature is 45 and 
not over 70 degrees. They will not do as 
well in a hot dry atmosphere. Do not 
place plants too near furnace or hot radia- 
tor. 
When the weather will permit (and if 
possible) place plants out-doors for greater 
hardiness. The north side is preferred, but 
any other protected place is good. Avoid 
sudden changes, especially if your plants 
are in bud, as this may cause the buds to 
drop. If plants have been kept at a rather 
high temperature or exposed to poor light- 
ing conditions it may be well to give them 
extra protection at night and cover with 
cheese cloth during the hottest part of the 
day. The amateur can grow healthy 
plants and enjoy beautiful flowers in his 
leisure time if general instructions are 
followed with imagination and patience. 
Keep plants clean, learn the simple rules 
for ventilation according to your location. 
This may take some experimentation, es- 
pecially for gardeners in the colder sec- 
tions. The first blooms will reward your 
efforts. 
CONTAINERS. Clay and glazed pots. 
Place a bit of broken pot on the bottom so 
as not to obstruct drainage hole. Wooden 
boxes or kegs may also be used. Cans are 
excellent. Most nurseries carry an all 
dipped can, or you can paint them. How- 
ever, be sure the turpentine has evaporat- 
ed before using. It is well to remember 
these plants do not like rust. 
When preparing containers for planting 
place broken crockery or small rocks at 
bottom of container for drainage, then a 
layer of manure, one-quarter cup to a 6- 
inch pot, one-half cup to an 8-inch pot. 
This gives bottom heat. Follow with the 
soil mixture. All manure must be well 
aged. 
REGULAR SOIL MIXTURE. Three 
parts well decomposed leafmould. This 
may be supplemented by garden loam if 
necessary. One part coarse sand; one part 
peat moss; one part well rotted manure; 
