PLANTING (Continued) 
growth is short, numerous small 
flower trusses are produced and 
the plant ultimately dies from in- 
sufficient aeration of the root soil. 
If the bed has been prepared with 
the components recommended in 
the previous paragraph, then fur- 
ther addition of humus is un- 
necessary. Should the planting 
area be too large to treat as a 
unit, then dig a hole several 
inches in excess of the ball’s depth 
and width, break up the bottom 
of the hole to ensure good drain- 
age, then fill around the roots 
with equal parts of peat moss, leaf 
mold, and sandy loam. Firm this 
mixture with a shovel handle. 
leaving a shallow basin around 
the plant which should be filled 
several times with water to set- 
tle the root ball. In the Pacific 
coast areas west of the Cascades. 
planting may be carried out from 
August until May but preferably 
in the early fall so that the plants 
lave time to become established 
before new growth is made in 
the spring. ‘Vhis is particularly 
important in the warmer areas cf 
NYS VL v ‘ OREGON’S NATIVE RHODODENDRONS (R. macrophyllum) WITH MT. HOOD IN BACKGROUND 
SS VAN 4 N 
y ; 
OF BALL 
rrBELOW SURFACE 
\ Nee SHALLOW BASIN 
ramp \2 YS WITH WATER 
SOlL 
AROUND BALL WITH 
SHOVEL HANDLE 
coastal California since hot days are often frequent in April 
and May. Judging from reports from growers along the eastern 
seaboard, Rhododendrons should be in the ground not later 
than the middle of September. Failing this, then planting had 
better wait until spring when all danger from freezing weather 
has passed. 
When compared to other broad leaved evergreen shrubs, Rho- 
dodendrons are easy to transplant even when quite large. This 
is a desirable feature when landscaping since the plants can be 
set close in the initial planting and moved to other locations 
when the foliage begins to touch. The operation is simple. First 
ROOT BALL PARTLY UNDERCUT 
& CANVAS ROLLED BENEATH 
ROOT BALL TIPPED ONTO 
ONE SIDE OF CANVAS 
CANVAS UNROLLED & BALL 
READY TO BE LIFTED 
OUT OF HOLE 
dig a trench around the base of the plant in a pattern comparable 
to the spread of the foliage. The trench need not be more than 
eighteen inches in depth. Carefully remove the surplus soil back 
to where the fine hair-like roots appear, then undercut the root 
mass leaving a solid area of soil in the center as shown in the 
illustration. Roll up a square of canvas or burlap, push it under 
the root ball, gently tip the plant on to the canvas, unroll it and 
the plant may be moved at will. 
MULCHING 
A protective mulch over the 
roots of Rhododendrons is a 
very important part of their 
culture. Peat moss, decaying 
pine needles, dried fern leaves, 
spent hops, tan bark, and saw- 
dust are among the most com- 
monly used mulches’ which 
have been used successfully. 
A mulch should be applied im- 
mediately after planting and 
it should be renewed each year 
or as it decays to where it is 
no longer evident on the sur- 
face. A mulch protects the root system from the sun’s rays and 
drying winds, keeps the soil temperature warmer in winter and 
cooler in summer, conserves soil moisture in dry weather and 
ultimately becomes a source of food available to the surface 
feeding roots. Such material as tan bark or sawdust will not 
break down as rapidly as pine needles or leaf mold, therefore, 
they would not be renewed as frequently as the “softer 
materials”. 
Jt, PS Ss p 34 
ete cs See Feo 
a pe PG ss 
4” MULCH OF 
LOOSE MATERIAL 
FERTILIZERS 
Rhododendrons are not heavy feeders and a little care in the 
preparation of the planting site in the beginning will yield big 
dividends. Lcaf mold, peat moss, and other humic materials are 
usually sufficient and the addition of fertilizers is not really 
necessary. As a matter of fact, several of the hybrids are quite 
sensitive to the presence of organic or inorganic fertilizers and 
show their resentment in their deformed and twisted leaves and 
in some instances, the foliage takes on a burned appearance 
around the margins of the leaves. This is particularly true in 
many of those with 2. Griersonianum blood. R. J. . Van Nes is 
another noiable example, and reacts quite unfavorably to fer- 
tilizer in any shape or form. 
It is advisable, therefore, to create a reservoir of slowly avail- 
able plant food in the form of humusy material rather than 
TEN PER CENT OFF ON SIX OR MORE PLANTS ORDERED FROM THIS CATALOG 3 
