TRANSPLANTING 
Strawberries are transplanted successfully in many ways, and 
with a variety of tools. For small patches, a garden trowel or small 
spade is very handy, while for large plantings the machine transplanter 
does a very excellent job. Just fan the roots out as much as you can 
in the moist dirt of a deep hole or trench, set THE PLANT AT THE 
HEIGHT IT ORIGINALLY GREW, and press the soil firmly around 
the roots. Don’t bunch up the roots in the ground. Don’t leave air 
pockets. Don’t try to set when the ground is too wet. 
Each spring a new set of roots starts from the crown of the straw- 
berry plant, and in case of the one that is new set, the crown must be 
in the moist dirt or the new roots will not start and the plant cannot 
thrive. If the crown is covered, it will turn yellow and finally rot. 
Hence the importance of depth in setting. 
CULTIVATION 
Cultivation should start soon after the plants are set, and continue 
throughout the growing season. Any of the many good cultivators 
found on most farms will do most of the work if used often enough, but 
hoeing is indispensable. Not only should the weeds be kept out, but a 
mulch should be maintained and the soil not allowed to crust around 
the plants. 
In dry seasons it is often necessary to imbed the runners in the 
damp underneath soil to enable them to take root early and develop a 
good root system. The first runners should be encouraged to take root, 
for they will make the largest and heaviest plants, and do best in the 
next fruiting season. 
All blossoms should be clipped off in the new patch as soon as they 
are well formed, and from everbearers until the plant is thoroughly 
established about July 1. 
