GROWING FLOWERS FROM SEEDS 
All culture letters in the flower seed listings refer to the direc- 
tions given below. Please follow them carefully to be certain of 
good results. Where two or more letters are given, choose the 
one that you can most easily and accurately use; however note 
carefully information under all letters given for any particular 
flower as some indicate planting dates and other special require- 
ments. 
(A) Sow in the bed, border or row where the plants are to 
grow. The soil should be loamy, full of humus to the extent that 
it will easily pulverize; not dry out readily and crack. Make 
certain that you have good topsoil, not fill-in from the basement 
excavation. A load or two of good top soil hauled in and well 
fortified with humus—leaf mold, peat moss or well rotted ma- 
nure; may mean the difference between pride of accomplishment 
and envying your neighbors’ more attractive flower bed. Nearly all 
flowers do well in sunny locations; see page 74 for list of those 
that do well in partial shade. 
Spade to a depth of 6 inches, pulverize and rake smooth. Plant 
in rows or broadcast the seed. Cover lightly to a depth four or five 
times the seed’s diameter. Very small seeds may be merely pressed 
into the soil with a flat board and a very little soil and pulverized 
sphagnum or peat moss sprinkled over them. Larger seeds may be 
planted singly, well covered, but more thickly than plants are 
wanted. Firm the soil well over the seed, Watering now becomes 
of great importance. At no time should the soil be allowed to be- 
come hard and dry, yet excessive watering may cause the seed to 
rot, sour the soil, or cause “damping off.’’ Use a fine spray that 
will not wash out the seed. When the plants appear, thin them out, 
allowing each to grow singly, without crowding. The distance be- 
tween them is governed by their ultimate size and spread. Excess 
plants may usually be moved to a new location. 
Cultivate shallowly so as to not damage roots. Crinkle Plant 
Covers (page 72) set close together over the seed row will give 
protection and force growth of plants. 
(B) Sow in outdoor seed bed, to be transplanted. Same as (A) 
except bed should be not over six feet wide for easy tending and 
always sow seed in rows. Keep soil moist until plants are up. A 
thin dressing of peat moss covering soil surface will help. Place 
in full sun, protect from winds and, in the case of perennial seed- 
lings, provide a lath or cloth canopy for shade during heat of sum- 
mer. This should be removable in damp and cloudy weather. Seed- 
lings may be transplanted when they make true leaves, that is, 
when the second pair of leaves appear; or they may be left until 
larger before being moved to their permanent location. Perennials 
should be moved from the seed bed to a nursery row, to grow until 
fall before being moved to their permanent location. 
(C) Sow in cold frame or protected or lath shaded spot that 
can be kept moist and undisturbed over a long period. This method 
is used for slow germinating seed, some of which require months 
to sprout. Plant as in (B) preparing soil as in (A). During the 
spring, summer and fall, water often enough to prevent soil from 
drying out. A mulch of peat or pulverized sphagnum moss will 
help retain moisture. In winter to afford protection, cover with 
leaves. Have patience with slow germinating subjects; do not dis- 
turb too quickly. Any live seed will eventually grow if given time 
enough; provided soil, moisture supply, etc., are right. When 
seedlings appear and make true leaves, transplant to pots, nursery 
row or permanent location. If moss forms on soil surface, sprinkle 
fresh earth over top. 
(D) Sow indoors in boxes or flats (pictured top page 2). These 
should be of convenient size and about 3 inches deep. The soil used 
should be composed of about equal parts of leaf mold, sharp sand 
Continued on page 94 
D. V. Burrell Seed Growers Co., Rocky Ford, Colo. 93 
