DAHLIADEL NURSERIES 
at least 2 weeks ahead of planting so chemicals are 
diluted and there is no danger of heating or burning. 
We strongly suggest a broadcast application, as recom- 
mended above under Spring Fertilizing. The stunt in 
dahlia plants can often be traced to the burning of 
the feed roots caused by excessive chemical feeding. 
ROOTS should be planted in trenches or furrows 5 
inches deep laid flat down (not on end) and covered 
with earth 2 to 3 inches in depth where drainage is 
good, filling in as the plant develops. Where drainage 
is poor, keep a furrow open between rows to facilitate 
drainage in wet weather, or cover sufficiently so that 
water will not stand in the vicinity of the root. 
Where roots are planted in holes in heavy soil and 
drainage is poor, fill the hole completely so it will not 
become a basin in heavy rains and rot the root. Dahlias 
do not like wet feet. Rake top-soil loose before it bakes 
after a rain so sprouts can come through easily. 
POT ROOTS should be planted as you would roots. 
Do not divide the small clumps and preferably allow 
only one stalk to grow, never more than two. Pot roots 
and plants are especially desirable where the growing 
season is short, or where dahlias are to be used in 
beds following early flowering bulbs. They may be 
potted in 3-inch or 4-inch pots and well-started before 
planting. 
ROOTED CUTTINGS should be ordered for delivery 
15 to 20 days earlier than plants, and you should have 
a cold frame, sufficient 21/4-inch to 3-inch pots and 
suitable potting soil along with some knowledge of 
their care. We follow through the behavior of Dahliadel 
root divisions, pot roots and green plants but on rooted 
cuttings we can only guarantee delivery in good condi- 
tion and to be true to name because the care and at- 
tention given a plant from potting to hardening off for 
planting out is the making or breaking of the vitality 
of your stock, and this responsibility of necessity is 
yours. 
When rooted cuttings are received, wax paper wrap- 
pings and moss should be removed. Cuttings should 
be potted at once in 21/4-inch to 3-inch pots or Veneer 
Bands. Water well and place in partially shaded sun- 
light for 3 days, then less protected for 3 more days 
and then full sunshine. Avoid drafts first few days. 
Slats, onion bag material or thin muslin make a good 
shading. After a week, handle them as recommended 
for green plants. 
GREEN PLANTS. Unwrap plant and remove moss, then 
moisten ball of dirt by submerging in water momen- 
tarily. Then remove paper pot, and plant with the top 
of the ball of dirt about 3 inches below the ground 
level and cover the top of the ball of dirt 2 to 1 inch. 
In locations where there is danger of flooding or poor 
drainage, do not plant quite this deep. Water thoroughly 
once if ground is dry and then protect with open 
basket or open crate for a few days as partial protec- 
tion from the sun and wind, covering only when pro- 
tection is needed. Then start cultivating. Fill in grad- 
ually as the plant develops. For cut worms, scatter poi- 
son bait the evening of planting. see Cutworms. 
Follow directions How To Plant and in addition where 
dahlia plants are to be set in heavy soil, it is advisable 
to at least prepare the hill by mixing sand or coal 
ashes, screened to about the size of corn, into the 
ground where the plant is to be set. We do not recom- 
mend washing all the soil from the roots before plant- 
ing. Plants will make better bushes and clumps in 
heavy soil if hills are prepared, as above, but it is 
not at all necessary in light soil. 
It is best to set plants without topping back to get 
feed roots started especially when they have been 
shipped a distance. After the plants have established 
themselves you can top back with safety. 
Where dahlia plants are grown with only a reason- 
able amount of fertilizer and water, they usually make 
better roots than when grown in the midst of plenty. 
To produce roots on plants, use a balanced plant food, 
as recommended under Fertilizer, but not to excess, 
and water only when necessary to produce a good, 
healthy, but not soft growth. When setting plants the 
last of June for September blooms, we recommend 
disbudding, according to Drawings X, Y and Z. When 
planting a month earlier it will be necessary to cut 
the fast growing varieties back severely about six weeks 
before you want blooms, leaving about one-half the 
growth and not more than six laterals for the first 
blooms. Then disbud these as shown on Drawings X 
or Y, as soon as branches develop sufficiently. This 
cutting back will give the plant an over supply of feed 
roots, which will start root production at once, giving 
you more mature roots in the Fall. 
In growing Dahliadel green plants, only the strongest 
cuttings are potted, and again the best plants are 
selected for filling orders. This assures you of the best 
stock procurable. 
CULTIVATION 
By cultivating at least once a week, twice a week 
preferably in the early season, and as soon after rain 
or irrigating as the ground can be worked without 
getting lumpy, the weeds will be held in check and 
a soil mulch formed which will conserve the moisture 
and lessen the need of irrigation. 
As the plant develops and the feed roots come to- 
ward the surface, the ground should be worked rather 
shallow around the hills for the radius of at leest a 
foot. Still work the balance of the ground rather deep 
and bring some fresh soil to the plant with each 
cultivation, giving the plant a new supply of plant 
food and protecting the surface roots from the heat 
of the sun. Have the hills mounded 3 to 4 inches by 
the middle of September. This will help support the 
sialks and protect the roots from freezing should an 
unexpected cold spell catch you before digging. Stop 
all cultivation between the middle of August and Sep- 
tember Ist. 
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