DAHLIADEL NURSERIES 
All of the disbudded stem should be cut with the 
flower, when following X or Y. This early disbudding 
and pruning is not solely for the benefit of the first 
six flowers, but mainly to keep the bush low and 
properly branched for the future crop, also aiding in 
root development. 
Should you fail to pinch out when plants are small, 
it will be necessary to use system shown on Draw- 
ing Z or exercise care with late topping or cutting 
back not to open hollow stems so that water can get 
in and start stem rot. These openings can be stopped 
up with grafting wax, plaster paris or modeling clay or 
capped with cellophane. Should water get into the 
stalk, slit the stalk just above the node with the point 
of a sharp knife, and by twisting the knife let the 
water out. 
Certain varieties branch to excess. These should be 
thinned out at intervals of 2 weeks, and not more 
than six shoots allowed to come into bloom for the 
first flowers. This affords the plant better air circula- 
O)SBUDDED 
() 
Z OsSSUDDED NOT DISBUDDED 
DRAWING Z is another system which we do not 
recommend for our section of the country, or 
where there is a prolonged hot spell in the sum- 
mer. However, where summers are cool, especially 
in the mountains, or where the seasons are short, 
early blooms may be grown without hurting the 
later crop by following Drawing Z. This system 
shows how disbudding without topping keeps the 
bush growth down to just the right height. 
tion and sunlight. Without plenty of air and sunlight 
your blooms cannot be fully developed and your 
foliage will be easy prey to mildew. 
Pinching out once is best for varieties that branch 
readily, while pinching out twice will prove advisable 
on varieties that grow main branches rapidly and 
develop lower branches slowly. 
IRRIGATION 
Water only when your dahlias show need of moisture. 
Thorough watering can be spread over 2 days to allow 
time for penetration and is far better than a number 
of light sprinklings. Break the surface by cultivating as 
soon as the ground dries sufficiently not to lump or 
cake when worked. Frequent sprinkling brings the feed 
roots to the surface where they are sickened by the 
heat of the sun and injured by cultivation. Watering 
once a week should be sufficient even in dry weather. 
PESTS 
APHIDS (Plant lice) are small, soft-bodied, sucking 
insects either light green or greyish black in color. 
They usually work in groups on the underside of the 
leaves, causing the leaves to curl. At times they work 
on the young stems. Aphids are common carriers of 
Mosaic, a virus disease and should be kept in control 
for this reason, if for no other. 
CUCUMBER BEETLES are of two common types, the 
spotted having 12 black spots, and the striped having 
alternate black and yellow stripes. They do consider- 
able damage eating petals of buds and flowers. 
EUROPEAN CORN BORER. This is a serious pest when 
infestation is heavy. The adult moth of the corn borer 
lays its eggs in a cluster on the underside of the leaf. 
The first generation hatches in June, the second late 
in August. Contact your county agent for exact time 
in your location. It is important that you keep a con- 
trol spray or dust on the plant during the hatching 
period, as the tiny borers feed on the leaf surface for 
a few days before boring into the stem. It is also im- 
portant to keep the insecticide on the new growth as 
the borers enter the stem just above the leaf bracket 
in this new growth. As the borer develops it weakens 
the stem, eating through the nodes and finally the stem 
breaks over. 
All weeds, corn or dahlia stalks should be destroyed 
or dug under before May Ist as a control measure. 
GRASSHOPPERS need no description and can be con- 
trolled by our spray recommended below. 
JAPANESE BEETLES which are generally known and 
do considerable damage to the open blooms can be 
easily controlled by spraying. 
LEAF-HOPPERS are larger than thrips and of a pale 
yellowish green color, a little over Vg of an inch in 
length. They fly when the bush is touched especially 
during the heat of the day. These sucking insects do 
much to keep a plant from getting a good start. They 
work on the underside of the leaf causing the edges 
to first turn yellow, then brown. Finally the entire 
leaves die on the lower part of the plant. 
