On Growing Seedlings 
DON'T BEGIN too soon, unless you have 
a greenhouse or light hotbed and can 
give the seedlings plenty of room. For 
most vegetables, 6 to 7 weeks is time 
enough to allow between seeding and 
transplanting. Most homes are too dark, 
so don't try to grow seedlings unless 
you can do it in a sunny window that 
gets direct sunshine for at least six hours. 
Fill shallow boxes (flats) with a mixture 
of Ys good garden soil, ¥ clean sand 
and Ys compost, leaf mould or other 
well-rotted organic matter. Make very 
shallow rows of furrows with the edge 
of a ruler or a wood lath, 3” apart. Sow 
seeds in these rows 1” apart in the 
row. For most plants, a temperature of 
70 degrees is a good compromise, 
DON'T let your soil dry out, and dont 
let it be soggy. Spray lightly two or 
three times a day, using an atomizer or 
bulb sprinkler. When the best seedlings 
can be selected, thin out to stand 2” to 
3” apart. Before transplanting into the 
garden, withhold water for 2 or 3 days. 
In transplanting, set the plants firmly by 
pressing on both sides of the stem with 
forefinger and thumb. If not firmed thor- 
oughly, seedling may be killed by being 
hung with an air space underneath. 
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SQUASH, Early Prolific 
Straightneck 
LETTUCE, Early Curled Simpson 
Pointers on Transplanting 
The value in transplanting vegetables is 
that it saves considerable time because 
the germination and young growth 
periods are skipped and your harvest 
can be made in a much shorter growing 
time. Transplanting causes considerable 
shock to the plant. The root disturbance 
and readjustment to its new environment 
can be minimized if the plants are care- 
fully handled. 
Always try to save as many leaves and 
roots as possible. It is better to allow the 
transplant to wilt slightly than to re- 
move leaves. Removing leaves slows up 
the manufacture of plant food that will 
help the plant recover, 
In selecting your seedlings remember 
they should be medium green in color, 
not too tall. and leaves should be free 
from spots or dead areas. Do not use 
seedlings that are red or purple in color, 
or show signs of yellowing except in the 
case of celery. 
Tomato, eggplant, and pepper plants are 
tender and should not be set out before 
danger of frost is past. Cabbage, cauli- 
flower, and kohlrabi are less tender but it 
is not safe to set them out much before 
the frost-proof date. 
When soil is sufficiently moist so a ball 
of soil can be retained around each indi- 
vidual root there is less chance of injury 
; “Southport 
Globe and Yellow Globe Danver 
or of air pockets being left around roots. 
Use a trowel. (It is important that roots be 
kept in close contact with soil so they 
can get moisture.) 
When seedlings are to be transplanted 
without a ball of soil, long tap roots 
should be shortened, and the whole roct 
system placed and ‘firmed in” so that it 
is well spread out, not bunched. Soil in 
which roots are placed must be finely 
pulverized. 
Transplant in cool, cloudy weather or at 
evening or early morning. 
As soon as the garden has been 
planted, water thoroughly but gently 
with a fine spray. This, by the way, is 
the only time we sprinkle a garden; 
once the plants are established, any 
watering should give the soil a good 
soaking. 
On pages 26 and 27 you will find 
methods of construction of seed boxes, 
hot beds and cold frames to handle your 
seedlings. 
