GLADVIEW GARDENS 25 
_———— 
TIMELY CULTURAL HINTS 
As soon as you receive your bulbs open the package to admit air, then place 
in a cool, dry place until ready to plant. 
Your planting plot should be selected where the glads will receive full sunlight 
most of the day. Do not plant near walls, foundations or trees. Trees absorb mois- 
ture and shade them too much, causing a stunted growth. Wall and buildings 
reflect the sun’s rays and will burn them. Be sure to disinfect your bulbs before 
planting, whether your own, or some you have purchased. The safest and most 
satisfactory dip is LYSOL. Dissolve four teaspoonsful in one gallon of warm water. 
Use any kind of container. Soak three hours in cloth bags, and plant while still 
wet in moist ground. Another very good dip is NATRIPHENE—detailed directions 
come with this dip. This can be obtained from the Natriphene Co., 424 Book Bldg., 
Detroit, Mich., or we can supply enough for 200 bulbs for 25c, with your order. 
Any good soil that will raise vegetables will raise good glads. Go easy on 
fertilizer. If your soil is poor or has been used for crops several years, a liberal 
application of well-rotted cow manure may be spaded or plowed under in the fall. 
If this is not available, use some good commercial fertilizer as Vigoro or pulverized 
sheep manure. If latter is used, sprinkle a liberal application in the bottom of a 
6 to 7 inch deep trench, cover with about 2 inches of soil and place your large bulbs 
5 to 6 inches apart. (If you desire to grow exhibition spikes for the shows use large 
size bulbs, gouge out all but one eye and dust gouged out spots with sulphur dust.) 
Smaller bulbs may be planted shallower and closer together. Plant bulblets thick, 
one or two inches apart. 
After planting WATER is the most important thing necessary. Usually there 
is ample rainfall the first part of the season, but after the fourth leaf appears they 
should be given a good soaking at least once a week, throughout the blooming 
season. Cultivate between watering or rainfall. 
Probably the worst enemy to fight until recent years has been THRIPP. This 
is a tiny insect barely visible to the naked eye, which sucks the life juice from the 
stem and flower, causing distorted blooms. Since the advent of DDT this is easily 
controlled by dusting or spraying. Start to dust or spray when the third leaf 
appears and continue every ten days. The best time to dust is late evening or early 
morning when the dew is on them. If you dust use a 3 or 5% DDT powder. For 
spraying use a 50% DDT powder wettable 1 oz. to 3 gallons of water and use 
pressure sprayer. 
If you are using your blooms for the home or arrangements, you will obtain 
the greatest enjoyment from them by cutting when the first floret is open. Place 
in water at once and take indoors, where they will open slowly. Good cut flower 
varieties will open right up to the tip. Be sure to leave at least four leaves on the 
plant for bulb development. 
Dig your bulbs in October. Cut the stem off close to the bulb. Keep bulbs in 
a dry place for two or three weeks to dry, the old withered bulb will then be 
ready to be easily removed from the new bulb. Store in shallow boxes, cloth bags. 
or trays with screen bottoms, not over 3 or 4 inches deep. Dust with 5% DDT 
dust and store in any place where temperature is not more than 40 to 50 degrees, 
where there is moderate humidity. 
All dips, spray material and dusts are poison and extreme care should be used 
in its use. 
HELPFUL AIDS FOR THE GARDEN 
TREE LABELS—Copper wired, size 3% by 58 inches. These are very useful for 
roguing your glads in the garden, placing on cloth sacks to identify varieties when 
disinfecting and many other uses. 
50 for 60c: 100 for $1.10; 1000 for $8.75 
GARDEN STAKES 
We use these stakes for labeling our glads, mums, iris and other vegetables. 
in the garden. They come in two sizes and are painted white. 
8 inch by %—25 for 75c; 100 for $2.50 
12 inch by 1%—25 for $1.25; 100 for $4.50 
