The KEY TO STRAWBERRY PROFITS 
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TOO SHALLOW TOO DEEP JUST RIGHT 
In the drawing above, the plant at the left is set too shal- 
low. The exposed roots will dry out and the plant is very 
likely to die. 
The second plant is too deep, the crown being covered 
so that it will rot and the plant will die. 
The third plant is just right—crown just level with the 
surface. 
Take a little care at first in planting and you will 
find that it soon becomes very easy to plant the right depth. 
If you find that you have set a plant a little too shallow, 
draw the earth up around the roots until they are covered. 
If you find that you have set a plant too deep, the best thing 
to do is to take it up and set it over. 
Cultivation 
Cultivation should begin as soon as the plants are set and 
when soil conditions will permit, and should be continued 
every week or ten days throughout the entire growing sea- 
son. Never cultivate when the soil is wet, but cultivate as 
soon as the ground can be worked after each rain. Stir the 
soil to a depth of about two or three inches, going as close 
to the rows as possible, and complete the cultivation by hoe- 
ing shallow directly around the plants and in the rows 
where the cultivator teeth do not reach. 
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What Cultivation Does 
The picture above indicates the results secured by cultiva- 
tion and hoeing. On top of the ground is a layer of soil 
loosened by hoeing and cultivation. Moisture cannot easily 
penetrate upward through this loose soil, hence is retained 
in the soil surrounding the roots below where it is available 
for the use of the plants. 
R. M. Kellogg referred to cultivation as “Horseleg irri- 
gation” because it serves so well in bringing plants through 
dry seasons. You will experience very little loss from 
drought if you put these instructions into practice. 
In addition to conserving moisture, thorough cultivation 
prevents the formation of crust, keeping the ground free 
from weeds and makes conditions favorable for friendly 
bacteria which promote growth in the plants. 
How to Hoe 
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Method 
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The hoe is pulled forward, then withdrawn as shown by 
the arrow. Draw the hoe into the soil as nearly as possible 
on a line with the hoe blade, thus giving a slicing action, 
then pull it backward along the same line. The soil above 
the hoe will crumble into a fine, loose dust mulch. This 
method leaves the soil loose and level. A little practice makes 
this easy, Note that the hoe handle is held nearly vertically. 
When working near the plant, give the hoe a circular 
motion. Do not go more than a half inch deep around the 
plant—merely cut the crust. 
Wrong 
Method 
This method is the chop, chop method—entirely wrong. 
If you find your ground in hills and valleys after hoeing, 
you are pulling the hoe out of the soil on the forward sweep 
as shown by the arrow. This pulls the earth into a ridge in 
front of the hoe, leaving the lower soil exposed back of the 
hoe. The escape of moisture when this method is followed 
is excessive. 
Practice stirring the soil with your hoe, keeping your hoe 
as nearly as possible, always in the same plane, do not drag 
it forward, but rather slice and stir through the soil. 
An Interesting Experiment 
Place a piece of cube sugar in a saucer, next cover this 
with a layer of powdered or finely pulverized (not granu- 
lated) sugar. Now pour a little coffee into the saucer. ‘The 
coffee will rise up through the compact cube sugar as 
far as the loose powdered sugar, but no farther—finely 
| pulverized soil stops the rise and escape of moisture just 
the same as finely pulverized sugar—see explanation at 
left. 
Filling in Vacancies 
Every bare spot in your Strawberry rows reduces your 
profit, therefore, you should take precautions in advance 
to avoid them. It is hardly reasonable to expect that every 
plant you set, especially if you set large numbers, is going to 
live. Therefore, in ordering plants, order about 5% more 
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