WHY NO FLOWERS ON DAFFODILS? 
If your daffodil bulbs throw up many leaves but no 
flowers, after having bloomed in other years, you are 
troubled with Narcissi Bulb Fly. This pest seems to be 
universal wherever daffodils are grown. What really 
causes the damage is the larva of the adult fly. After the 
egg is deposited at the ground level of the plant by the 
adult fly during May or early June, the young grub 
hatches and starts down through the ground close to the 
plant looking for its first meal. When the grub finds the 
bulb, it works its way into it, usually through the base 
near the roots. There the grub remains and grows through 
the winter, living on the heart of the bulb, emerging in the 
spring to go into a pupa stage before hatching into the 
adult fly, to lay more eggs and start the cycle over again. 
About all the average gardener can do is to dig these 
suspicious looking plants and examine them. If they are 
soft or a hole can be found in the base, they should be 
destroyed. DEEP PLANTING, 10 to 12 INCHES, helps 
to discourage these pests. The poor (?) little grubs starve 
to death before they get down to the bulbs for lunch. 
There is no spray yet available to combat them. 
All bulbs grown in Washington and Oregon are sub- 
jected to rigid inspection and thorough fumigation, so 
you may order with complete confidence. However, bulbs 
secured from other sources may be infested; or old estab- 
lished neighboring plantings may harbor the fly which 
then may travel to your new bulbs. 
DEEP AND CAREFUL planting of daffodils and nar- 
cissi will result in years of beauty. 
ig PLEASES, 
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PLEASE, OH PLEASE, sign your name the same each 
time you order or write to us. Don’t be Alice Jones 
one time and Mrs. William Jones the next, as Wil- 
liam Jones is clear at the other end of the Joneses 
from Alice, and I have to look through the whole 
file, or your name isn’t found at all and your order 
is improperly filed under another name. Alice Jones, 
A. W. Jones, Bill Jones, and Mrs. William Jones, 
could very easily be the same person, or from the 
same household. It will save me hours of time when 
it is at a premium, and maybe errors in looking up 
your order in case you ever refer to it, if you will 
please send all orders and correspondence under one 
name. We do thank you. 
“The box of lovely bulbs came yesterday and I want to thank you for 
the generous way you filled the order ...I had had a man get a bed 
ready for my new treasures so when Posty left the box at 11 A.M. I 
went to work, and at 5 P.M. all were safely resting on a bed of bone 
meal and Milorganite, covered with good earth and peat moss, then 
with good garden loam to complete the work. I can hardly wait for 
March and April to come. These are in the open, but the dainty Angels 
Tears are sheltered and shaded, in sandy soil.” 
Carrie B. Hill, Vashon, Wash. (an 88 year young gardener) 
NATURALIZING BULBS 
By naturalizing, we mean planting bulbs in sizeable 
groups to give the appearance of spontaneous growth. 
In places where they can grow with less attention than 
they would get in the garden, they appear to care for 
themselves. Greater quantities of bulbs are used, and 
we try to plant them in drifts to give a natural appear- 
ance. Many types of sturdy bulbs, such as Daffodils, 
Crocus, Muscari, Scilla, and Chionodoxa are suitable for 
this type of planting. They bloom faithfully each spring, 
ripen their foliage and disappear for most of the year, 
A welcome top-dressing of bone meal, just after flowering, 
is a great help in keeping the flowers coming year after 
year. 
You, too, can have a planting such as this... 
see our SPECIAL DAFFODIL COLLECTION (Page 13) 
