_ Peppers 
ly in the house or hot-bed 
0 field when ground jis eenee 
_ Give each plant not less than 1 inch space 
_ in the hot-bed, rows 4 inches apart. DAE 
-They like rich soil and warm erowing 
‘Plant ear 
Transplant t 
Irish Potatoes 
tereSeed stock ‘should be cut, 
iM a oe so that each 
_f piece will haye two or three eyes. Seed 
m |  . Pieces about 1” to 1 Ye” square are best. The 
|| | pieces-are planted 4 inches deep and 12 to 
14 inches apart in rows 3 to 3% feet apart. 
__ Spring planting is made as soon as danger of 
‘heavy frost. is Over and late plantings should 
be made any time from the last of June to 
August 15th. Good cultivation is important. 
After digging the potatoes do not allow them 
‘o remain in the open sun. Store in a dry, 
Well ventilated, cool place. 
Sweet Potatoes 
Sweet potatoes can be 
about’ six weeks before 
‘Good, sound sweet 
started in hot beds 
time to set out. 
¢ potatoes should be placed 
_ in a bed as close as possible without touch- 
ing and covered with about two inches of 
clean sand. Plants are then set on low 
ee ridges about 14 to 16 inches apart in rows 
3 feet apart. Set out in the arden after all 
_ danger of frost is past. Harvest the crop 
right after the first frost. Allow potatoes to 
dry out in the sun for four or five hours, 
Be careful not to bruise. Store in a dry 
‘{] warm, well ventilated storage place. 
he : Radish—See Chart 
Plant often so that you can always have 
them crisp and tender. < 
| Use them fresh from the garden before 
they become tough and woody, 
summer, use. 
Plant the winter varieties in late July when 
' you plant late turnips and thin to at least 
six inches in the row, 
Salsify— 
See Chart 
Dig just before 
hard freezing weather 
and store in a shal- 
low pit where it will 
freeze, for freezing 
improves the flavor, 
_ It is especially fine 
in soups either alone 
or with other vege- 
tables or with oys- 
ters. 
MEDICINE 
DROPPER 
Z LE, 
An easy way to plant 
tiny seeds, 
ant early in rows 14 inches apart, cover- 
eed from three-fourth to one inch 
r io about 3 or 4 inches in the 
“aril 
as early as possible for it is most 
ed early in the season. 
+h can be planted in late summer and 
: _ strawberr: 6h 
res 
Squash—See Chart 
For large seeded squash figure 25 hills to 
the ounce of seed and for small seed 50 hills 
to>the ounce. ee fi 
Summer Squashes are- delicious if used 
before they are a third or half grown. 
Combat squash bugs by dusting with Bug 
Dust. 
ie Spaghetti Squash 
' Spaghetti squash is ready to use when the 
shell gets so hard you can’t dent it with 
your thumb nail. Some like to bake the 
squashes whole just as they come from the 
garden, and 45 minutes in a good hot oven 
| is usually about right to dow the job well. 
| After baking, break the squash open, remove 
the seeds, the fleshy part comes out very 
| easily, butter it liberally and season to taste. 
| You have a real treat in store. 
We have been told that the spaghetti squash 
| may also be cooked—in other words, just 
1 drop the squash in a kettle of water and give 
a good thorough boiling. 
Let us hear how you like our spaghetti 
squash, \ 
Sweet Corn—See Chart 
_ Make an early planting and in ve 
a week or ten days another be- 
tween the rows of that first 
_ planting. 
For succession plant an early, Lye 
an intermediate and a late va- 
riety at the same time. Or make 
several plantings of your favor- 
ite variety, or plant my special 
_ blend which ripens in succession, 
Be sure not to plant sweet corn close, or 
_ you will have only fodder and no ears to eat, 
-Tomato—See Chart 
Sow seed eight to ten weeks before set- 
g in the field. 
Any of the early bunch vegetables can be 
n between the tomato rows. ee 
riy kes around a tomato plan 
Des & tarrel “hoop to them and allow 
lant to grow up through, This will act 
ING: Tomato vines are trained to a 
aah or two stems. You can pinch 
he terminal bud when the plants reach 
ight of about 5 ft. The vines should 
gone over each week and any new shoots 
ting out from the main stem should be 
hed off. Do not pinch off the blossom 
are in doubt, allow this bud 
il the next week. 
Aan 
Plant the long varieties for late spring and- 
epreepinach | iscs,< 7s 
over winter by mulching same as for — 
Turnips—See Chart 
The early crop of turnips should be in 
early enough to mature before hot weather 
oF ane quality will be poor. 
ere is an old saying “plant your turni 
twenty-fifth of July wet or dry. ae 
Watermelons—See Chart 
‘Drop 6 seeds to the hill and thin later 
when bugs are gone to 2 plants to hill, Fig- 
ure 50 hills to the ounce of seed. 
If you want~ extra big melons keep all 
but two or three on the vine picked off as 
fast as they appear, 
If you plant in hills make them not closer 
than 8 x 10 fect and as far apart as 12 x 12 
feet or even farther, sometimes. 
At this distance some sTowers allow only 
cont to the hill, 
dull green color indicates @ ripe melon 
and a bright green -eolor an unripe melon, 
About Canning 
. Space is too limited to give you all the 
information you would want about canning, 
but you can easily get full and very excel- 
lent directions by writing to the Bureau of 
~ Home Economies, Dept. of Agriculture, Wash- 
ington, D. C., for the canning information 
they will be glad to give you, or sending to 
the Kerr Mason Jar Co., 2912 Title Insur- 
ance Bldg., Los Angeles, Calif. They put out 
excellent books on canning which cost you 
only 10e, 
By all means, everyone should can_plenty 
Soiee Dee ane ae ee os Be_sure 
have plenty to eat. by OWING YOUR 
OWN and CANNING YOUR OWN. 
A CANNING PLANNING GUIDE 
Hones emus 
irown to Pre- Amount to Plant 
Vegetables | serve How to Preserve Per Parson : 
and Per 
Fruits Person| Preferred | Other 
Per Yr.|__Method | Methods 
VEGETABLES 
GROUP 1 
Tomatoes... .| 30 qt. Canning SCatsup 
‘i 
APTA \Chilisauce 15 Plants 
. |Pit storage |...... fe } 18 plants 18 plants 
LEC Spo cpg ait a 18 plants 18 plants 
Be cahe ihe oa. sa LN OPES © (0 FEE 
. | Freezing Canning 15 ft. 15 ft. 
. |Pit storage | Canning 15 ft. 15 ft. 
. |Pit storage ¢ 
. |Pit storage 
. |Dry storage 
. |Dry storage 
. |Canning 
8 crowns 
4 plants 4 plants 
8 plants 
. Freezing 
Freezing 
|. |Freezing {Canning 
y \Drying 
Beans, dried.| 7b. Drying - |...” 
orn bi IO He Canning Drying 
r {\ Llb. [Freezing Salting , 
| croup 6 
. (Cellar 
Dry storage 
Dry storage 
FRUITS 
50 f 
1 plant 3 plants 
. | {Cellar 
i 
= Canning 
feaches..... 12 qt. |/Canning Use also 
“ \ Freezing _ for jelly, 
GSES 52h -hets 9 qt. | Canning marma-= 4 
GRO lade, 4 
herries qt. |{Canning conserve, 
Freezing jam, 
Humsre ees 5 qt. | Canning butter, 
spicing 
About Inoculation | 
We get hundreds of letters each year ask- 
ing ether inoculating garden seed with 
Pei een” niys: The answer is, YES, DECID- 
EDLY, YES. It is only of value on garden 
peas, beans and Sweet Peas, but on these it 
makes a world of difference in the vigor of 
the plant and the amount of yield. We sell 
many thousands of packets each year. A 
15c pkt. is enough for the average gardener 
as 1 pkt. treats 8 Ib. of seed. Easy to apply. 
Full directions on the package. 
Another big aid to improving crops is the 
new Hormone-Vitamin concentrate “GROW- 
AID” which stimulates quick root growth 
and makes for quicker and heavier crops on 
all garden seeds, flower seeds and nursery 
stock. It is relatively new, but working 
wonders wherever used. Try it this year and 
make your garden EXTRA high-yielding. 
Crop Features to Utilize 
Crops Occupying the Ground All of the 
Growing Season: Beans (Pole, Snap), Beans 
(Pole, Lima), Chard (Swiss), Cucumbers, 
Eggplant, Muskmelon, Okra, Onions, Parsley, 
Parsnip, Peppers, Sweet Potatoes, Irish Late 
Potatoes, Pumpkins, Salisfy, Squash, (Win- 
ter), Spinach (New Zealand), Tomatoes, Wa- 
termelons, 
Crops Occupying Ground Part of Season an 
May Be Followed by Others: Beans (Bush), 
Beets, Cabbage, Cabbage (Chinese), Carrots, 
Corn, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, 
Onions (Green), Peas, Potatoes (Early) 
Spinach, Turnip (Spring), Rutabaga 
(Spring). 
Crops Which May Follow Others: Beans 
(Bush), Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Corn, Cel- 
ery, Lettuce, Mustard, Late Potatoes, Ruta- 
baga (Fall), Spinach, Turnips (Fall), 
Crops Which May Be Utilized in Interplant- 
ing: (Early, quick-maturing, narrow-spaced) 
Beans (Bush), Beets (Early), Carrots 
(Early), Lettuce, Mustard, Onions (Sets), 
Peas (Barly), Radish, Spinach. (Later, 
slower-growing, wider-spaced) Broccoli, Brus- 
sels Sprout, Corn, Cucumber, Muskmelons, 
Cabbage, Pumpkins, Spinach (New Zealand), 
Tomatoes, Squash, Watermelons, 
s Which May Be Planted Together in 
eee Row: (Quick-germinating and ma- 
turing) Lettuce (Leaf), Mustard, Radish, 
Spinach. (Slower-germinating and maturing) 
Beets, Chard, Carrots, Leek, Spinach (New 
Zealand), Parsley, Parsnips, Salisfy, Onions 
(Seed). y 
Crop Succession 
Plant radish seed very thin and follow at 
once with parsnip, carrot, parsley, asparagus, 
onion or leek right in the same row. Pull the 
radish and use when it is large enough. 
Plant Beets, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, 
Spinach, Onion Sets, Radish or early Beans 
or Peas between rows of late Cabbage, 
Melons, Squash or Tomatoes, - 
Plant radish very early followed by early 
Cabbage plants set every two feet in the row 
- and after the cabbage is off sow late turnips 
or Chinese Cabbage. - 
Plant two rows of Potatoes 
between each two Watermelon 
Tows and dig potatoes after 
the Melons are gone. 
Follow early Peas and Beans 
with late Cabbage, 
Celery may follow early 
Peas, Beans, Lettuce, Radish 
x or Spinach, 
Plant late turnips in vacant spaces about 
the garden. 
Starting Plants in the House 
A hot bed is the best place to start plants 
if you are willing to go to the trouble to 
make a good one. However, a box of good 
dirt placéd in a south window of the house 
where it will get as much sunshine as pos- 
sible and in a room where the temperature 
does not vary much is good. 
If the soil you use does not already contain 
a large percent of humus, use about 50 per 
cent well rotted manure. This amount is 
only suggestive, as there is a wide difference 
in different samples of dirt. What we mean by 
“Well rotted manure” is manure that could 
almost be classed as dirt. Don't use fresh 
manure. < 
Cover all small seeds about one-half inch 
deep. Make the rows 3 to 4 inches apart. 
~ Keep the surface soil moist until the plants 
are up or you may have trouble in getting a 
stand. 
Bug Dust 
Since gardening began, insects have waged 
war on gardens. Today’s gardener has a 
powerful weapon against bugs in the form 
Bug Dust. 
You really won’t believe how good my 
BUG DUST works until you see it work your- 
self. Some folks call it a “Miracle Dust.” 
BUG DUST works three ways. It not only 
is a STOMACH POISON but a CONTACT 
POISON and FUNGICIDE—ALL IN ONE 
DUST. 
No need to buy three dusts—use our “BUG 
DUST.” 
Henry Field’s BUG DUST is safe. Does 
not harm even the most delicate plants when 
used as directed. Absolutely leaves no poison- 
ous residue. 
Dust plants early before heavy infestation 
appears. Dust both top and bottom of leaves. 
Redust once a week until controlled and after 
any heavy rain. For cutworms mix Bug 
Dust with soil at base of plants. Bug Dust 
can be used as a spray by diluting 114 tea- 
spoonful in gallon of water. Dust animals 
and poultry to rid them of fleas and lice. 
USE BUG DUST ON 
Beans Alyssum 
Cabbage Carnations 
Cauliflower Dahlias 
Cucumbers Gladiolus 
Egg Plant Gen. Foliage 
Lettuce Tris 
Muskmelons Peonies 
Peas | Roses 
Peppers Sweet Peas 
Pumpkins Snapdragons 
Potato Violets 
Squash Currants 
Tomato . 
Watermelon Grapes 
Asters Gooseberries 
House Planis Strawberry 
Asparagus All Flowers 
And all other small Plants. 
Winter Storage of Vegetables 
' 
_ Surplus garden vegetables can be stored 
in an unheated garage, storage house or shed 
for a month or so depending on how low 
the temperatures fall, Wie 
Store only those vegetables which are in 
g0od condition. Dig beets, potatoes, turnips, 
carrots and rutabagas as late as possible 
before the ground begins to freeze and cut 
the tops off. Do not clean the dirt from 
them, but place in boxes and pack in sand, 
loam and sawdust.’ The temperature should 
be between 35 and 40 degrees. 
The vegetables can also be stored in a 
basement, in which the temperatures can be 
kept down and ventilation provided, on racks, 
shelves, slat bins or boxes, raised off the 
floor. A concrete floor should be sprinkled 
every few days and a dirt floor kept some- 
what damp. 
Pumpkins, squash and sweet potatoes 
should be stored at temperatures between 
55 and 65. 
When storage is required for a longer pe- 
riod, an outdoor storage pit may be made 
by digging a pit the desired size and deep 
enough to stand in. The vegetables may be 
stored in boxes, bins or shelves. Lay heavy 
boards over the pit even with the surface 
= frost. shat SRS at 
When the quantity to be stored does not _ 
and cover with a mound of earth. <A ditch 
should be dug around the mound to lead 
surface water away. A door should be fitted 
to the entrance, preferably two doors with 
an air space between them to keep out the 
Pree Ae y ise co 
Pu ft eee 
require a very large pit, vegetables may be 
laid in a box, which is lined and covered 
with straw, set in a small pit covered with 
earth. Or a barrel may be used or a conical 
mound may be made to 
until the temperature inside~ has dropped 
close to freezing and do not cover earth pits 
until the soil has cooled off thoroughly. 
Best Vegetables for Freezing 
SNAP BEANS—Stringless Green Pod, Topcrop- 
SNAP BEANS, WAX POD—Pencil Pod black 
wax, Cherokee Wax. 
LIMA BEANS—Green Seeded Baby Lima. 
Golden 
Hybrid 
CORN—Y-8!, Giant 
Cross Bantam, 
Stowell’s Evergreen. 
GREENS—Swiss Chard, Kale, Spinach. 
PEAS—Little Marvel. 
Bantam Hybrid, 
Country Gentleman, 
Building a Cold Frame 
WEAVY PIN BEEZ 
Ee 
HINGES eee 
b q* HOOK TO 
SE AA HOLD SASH 
<p WHEN 
NEEDED 
SFr 
ANGLE IRONS 
ON ALL CORNERS 
K12"—} 
If you don’t want to go to the trouble of 
making a hot bed or haven’t enough good 
manure on hand to build one, you can do 
very well with a cold frame. 
A cold frame is built same as you build 
the frame for a hot bed. It should be about 
eighteen inches high at the back side and 
twelve inches at the front. Place it in a 
sheltered sunshiny situation and back around 
s0 that the wind will not get in. Cover with 
glass or Glass Cloth. 
Plant seed in a cold frame a week or so 
later than you would in a hot bed. You can 
grow all hardy vegetables, such as cabbage, 
cauliflower, beets, lettuce, radish, onions, 
and kohl rabi. 
Beets, lettuce and onions transplant as 
easily as cabbage. And you can advance 
radishes a couple of weeks by planting them 
in this cold frame. Of course, the soil should 
be rich and mellow. 
How to Make Hot Beds 
You will find lots of pictures and descrip- 
tions printed showing how to make a hotbed, 
but from our own practical experience, con- 
sider most of the printed directions wrong in 
showing a box frame going clear down the 
bottom of the pit, as most of them do. 
We have made hundreds of hotbeds, and our 
plan is to dig an ordinary hole in the ground, 
two or three feet deep and a little larger than 
the size of the hotbed we expect to make. For 
instance, if we are going to make a six-foot . 
bed make the hole about seven feet across. 
We then fill this full of manure, preferably 
fresh horse manure with plenty of straw in 
it, distribute it evenly and tramp it down sol- 
idly so that when finished it is at least four 
inches above the ordinary ground level. 
Then make your frame of ordinary 1-inch 
boards, put if on top of this manure pile and 
fill it inside with dirt, four inches deep, and 
you are ready. 
Seed & Nursery Co., “MIDWEST’S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” Shenandoah, lowa 
The dirt that is thrown out in excavating 
the hole can be used to bank up around the 
frame, practically to the top of it and ex- 
tending back a foot or so on each side to 
protect the hotbed from the cold weather. 
The back side of the hotbed should be the 
highest, and we generally get this by using a 
12-inch board at the back side and an S-ineb 
board at the front, although it might be well 
to give it even more pitch than this. 
The hotbed can be covered with either 
cloth or glass frames. Glass frames are a 
little the best, but they are quite expensive. 
The operating of the hotbed is best learned 
by actual experience. You have to make 
two or three of them and spoil part of them 
pee you learn, but that is the only way to 
earn, 
The main thing is to get started on them 
and get your cabbage and tomato sced 
planted. 
2 
cover vegetables — 
--Piled.up like:a:pyramid. = 72%) 
~ Do not close outdoor root cellars tightly — 
