ae 
Trees 
Top not 
Pruned 
Properly 
v= Pruned 
top 
Proper 
Way to 
Set and 
Hole Prune 
Large Trees 
and 
eep 
Roots | Enough 
Cramped 
and 
not 
Not pruned 
planted 
deep 
Planted Right 
Depth 
Hole not enough 
deep or Roots 
large RY Prop 
enough 
WH 
WY 
Likely to Die Likely to Live 
Fruit Trees 
Should be set as indicated in the “5 Easy 
Steps in Planting.”’ Also see Planting Chart 
on Page 67. Set Apples 30 to 40 feet apart 
and Peach, Apricot, Cherries, Plum and Pear, 
15 to 20 feet apart. Some folks prefer to 
plant Apples 40 feet_apart and set smaller 
trees such as Peach, Plum and Cherry in as 
filler trees. Small fruits, asparagus, and 
rhubarb may be planted in the orchard to 
give you immediate revenue. 
PRUNE FRUIT TREES before planting as 
illustrated in picture—both roots and_tops. 
Cut just above a bud which faces out. When 
properly pruned, they should not have more 
than 3 to 4 branches, and these should be 
cut to not more than 4 or 5 buds. As tree 
grows, prune in early spring, remove crossed 
and-crotched limbs. Trim apples to a central 
leader with limbs on different sides at differ- 
ent heights, peaches so they grow low (cut 
back leader and all branches very short), and 
don’t prune cherries or plums except to re- 
move broken wood or crossed branches. 
Shade Trees 
Plant the same as fruit trees. Be sure the 
soil is tramped in firmly about the roots, and 
that there are no air pockets left. Give plenty 
of space between trees. Large growers— 
Elms, Soft Maples, etc. 30 to 50 feet. Medium 
growers—Chinese Elm, American Linden, etc. 
25 to 40 feet. They may be set closer if you 
need to. At the time of planting, cut back 
all side branches at least, one-half, but do 
not cut back the main stem. Remove entirely 
any branch that threatens to become a double 
Jeader or any branch that forms too sharp 
a crotch with the main stem and might be 
broken later by a sttow load. Cut off bruised 
and broken roots. If any further pruning is 
necessary, prune in early spring to remove 
bad crotches and cross limbs. In all pruning 
be sure not_to leave any stubs but cut the 
branch off flush with the trunk. 
Any shade trees over 6 feet tall should be 
staked for at least a year. Drive a_ good 
strong stake deeply into the ground beside 
the tree, and tie the tree loosely to the stake 
with several ties. If rope or wire is used, 
run the same to an old inner tube or wrap 
in burlap or rags so not to cut into the trunk 
of the tree. 
Windbreaks | 
Every farm home should have a good 
windbreak to stop the cold winds and snow 
in the winter making the home many de- 
grees warmer, and protecting the livestock 
for quicker, heavier winter gains. In the sum- 
mer, a good windbreak stops the hot, drying 
winds. 
Suggested varieties suitable for each row; 
any other good windbreak plants 
Rows 1 and 2 i . 
Chinese Elm, Caragana, Russian Olive, Wil- 
low, Mulberry—planted 4 ft. apart. 
Rows 3 and 4 
Carolina Poplar, Soft Maple, Elm, Ash— 
planted 6 ft. apart. 
Rows 5 and 6 
Cottonwood, Am. Elm, 
6 feet apart. 
Rows 7, 8, 9, and 10 
Austrian Pine, Spruce, 
to 10 ft. apart. ‘ 
Besides giving protection the windbreak 
is a source of firewood, lumber, and_posts, 
and a never ending satisfaction of having 
something green and cooling right at hand 
for both man and animal. : 
Here’s a quick, easy way to plant wind- 
break trees. First take a walking plow, 
throw out a deep furrow along the row of 
trees to be planted. (Plow fast enough so 
as to throw dirt well out of furrow.) Second, 
put each individual tree against the straight 
edge of the furrow, then throw the loose 
dirt in over the roots. Pack firmly with the 
feet, CUT ALL SEEDLINGS OR TREES 
BACK TO LESS THAN HALF THEIR 
HEIGHT AS SOON AS PLANTED (except 
Evergreens, which require no pruning). Use 
the cultivator plenty the first two summers. 
Plant either fall or spring with good 
results. § 
54 
will do: 
Cc. Elm—planted 
Cedar—planted 8 
Vines 
Plant at least 2 or 2% ft. out from the 
house so you will have good drainage. Va- 
rieties that bloom during the spring months 
should not be pruned in the fall, except for 
the removal of dead wood. Varieties. which 
produce blooms on new wood in summer and 
fall, should not be pruned until they have 
become well established. Then the vines may 
be cut back to the height of about 3 ft. to 
encourage vigorous growth. 
Climbing vines should have good soil and 
plenty of water. Cut back when planted and 
tie or stake securely. Later train to solid 
trellis as motipn is injurious to the plants. 
Vines for North and East Side: Clematis, 
Ivy, and Wisteria. 
Vines for South and West Side: Silver 
Lace, Scarlet Honeysuckle, Pink Flame, Ivy, 
Bittersweet, Trumpet, 
CLEMATIS—Clematis thrives best in rich 
garden loam. Sand or peat moss may be 
added _to heavy soil to loosen it up. The soil 
should be well drained. It is best to mix 
some lime in with the soil when planting. 
Place the crown of the vine about 2 inches 
below the surface. Don’t cultivate as they 
like to be left alone. In the fall, any dead 
wood can be removed which is the only prun- 
ing needed. 
Shrubs 
Plant as described in 
general instructions. Trim 
back within several 
inches of the ground after 
planting, to make room 
for bushy growth. (See 
Illustration.) 1 ft. of 
dirt should be mounded 
up over each Fall-planted 
shrub and left until 
Spring. Set small va- 
rieties 1 to 2 ft, apart, 
medium grower, 1% to 3 
ft.; tall grower 3 to 6 ft. 
apart. 
Shrubs require little 
pruning. In no case 4 ? 
prune square across the top as this spoils 
their natural habit of growth, Cut branches 
off at ground. This will force young growth. 
Prune early blooming shrubs like Spirea V. 
H. and Lilacs right after they bloom. Prune 
midseason and late blooming shrubs in late 
fall or early spring. ' 
If planting in beds, remove all sod and 
spade up space between plants. In planting 
around foundation, stay at least 2 ft. and- 
with large growing shrubs, as much as 3 it. 
to 4 ft. away. 
Miscellaneous Tips 
Planting or Transplanting—Fall or early 
spring are the times best suited for trans- 
planting. Practically anything can be trans- 
planted in those periods providing proper 
care is taken that the plants do not dry out, 
_and that the roots are not too long exposed 
to sun or wind. In transplanting from one 
location to another, or from one home to 
another in case you 
are moving, it is 
safest to move as 
much dirt as possi- 
ble in_a ball along 
with the root, This 
is particularly true 
of Evergreens and 
large trees with 
trunk more than 4 
inches in diameter. 
Always replant at 
the same depth that 
the plant was orig- 
inally growing. Al- 
ways tramp the dirt 
in well around the 
roots so there are 
no air pockets. <Al- 
ways leave a cup- 
like depression 
around the plant so BS f 
it may be well watered occasionally until 
it is well established and growing. And, a 
good safe rule is to prune back one-half of 
the top of most any plant that you move, 
with the exception of the Evergreen and the 
main trunks of shade trees. If necessary 
to store plants awhile in the winter before 
planting in a new location, take up lots of 
dirt with the roots.and cover the ball of soil 
with burlap, and place in a dark cool corner 
of your basement. Water occasionally except 
the strawberries, as they are better allowed 
to be quite dry. Be sure the hole you make 
at the new place is plenty big. 
Winter Mulech—A Winter Mulch is e€s- 
sential with all newly planted plants—no 
matter what kind they are. After the first 
winter except in extreme northern states, it 
is not absolutely necessary that it be applied 
except to strawberry beds. Strawberries 
should always be mulched. .On fresh planted 
shrubs, trees, roses, peonies, oriental poppies, 
the best possible mulch is a good mound of 
dirt pulled over the plants just before freez- 
ing time. Oh roses, shrubs and trees, the 
mound should be at least a foot high. It 
won't do any harm if it is 18 inches high. 
For Oriental Poppies and _peonies it should be 
at least 6 to 9 inches. This is to keep the 
plants from heaving out of the ground by 
frost action. It is desirable to cover this 
mound with straw, hay or some sort of a 
litter 3 or 4 inches deep if you have the 
same to put on, It is not absolutely necessary 
: that this be done, ex- 
VV V NAIL cept that the lit- 
y WEL 
pe anaes IC 
a“ <S e 
Be sure to tamp soil 
firmly around roots 
when planting trees, 
shrubs, Soak ground 
well clear below roots. 
ter keeps the soil 
a5 mound from washing 
away ih the winter 
cel thaws. In the spring 
after the ground 
thaws, pull_ these 
mounds of soil away 
and the plants will 
start to grow. 
On Perennials and 
strawberries and such 
plants with a soft 
crown, where a pile 
of dirt cannot be put 
on the plants without 
injury, cover after 
When you water, soak 
the ground down to 
the roots, That is 
better than sprinkling 
with a nozzle. 
(1) NURSERY STOCK 
IS ALIVE 
Remember nursery AT ONCE 
damp, cool, well covered 
and away from freezing 
temperatures until 
planted. If you can’t 
plant at once, open pack- 
age, moisten well and 
keep covered with damp 
packing. Or treat as per 
No. 3. 
4. 
air or sun. 
berries and p 
4, 
OW HOLE LARGE in? 
ENDUGH TO RECEIVERS 
PLANT WITHOUT i A WHEN IT 1S VERY 
BENDING ROOTS i” HARD, 
(4) HOW TO DIG HOLE 
Dig hole large to hold roots without 
crowding or bending. Set stock 1” deep- 
er than it stood in nursery row. Trim 
off broken and tips of roots with.SHARP 
knife. Loosen soil in hole and set roots 
in natural spreading position, 
(2) PLANT AT ONCE 
When stock arrives plant 
if you 
stock is alive and must is war Sih te 
be handled with care. me Nee <Put a pepe) shown, Gon ea ete at 
DO NOT EXPOSE ROOTS — Gi ctially if the stock bag least, 6” deep with moist 
TO SUN OR AIR. Keep specially if the stock has ~ g941. Strawberries and 
dried out some en route. 
Do NOT expose roots to 
You can leave 
roots of all plants in water 
for 24 hours except straw- 
Plant all nursery stock at 
once if you possibly can. 
SHRUB PLANTING 
(3) HOW TO STORE 
IF YOU CAN’T PLANT 
can, AT ONCE, and if: weather 
perennials should be plant- 
ed at once or kept moist in © 
their packing. If WEATH- 
ER IS COLD, store in frost 
proof place (cave is good). 
Leave stock in packing and 
keep moist by sprinkling. | 
Plant as soon as you cam — 
erennials, 
FILL HOLE AND. TRAMP oose : 
SOIL. THE LIGHTER THE pep Me Rte on 
SOIL THE HARDER THE TRAMP 
ee | 2 
(5) HOW TO SET ; 
Then half fill hole with fine top soil, 
jogging tree. Pack earth firmly by tramp- — 
ing to avoid any air pockets about roots. | 
Slowly pour water in to fill hole. Let 
settle, then fill with earth and tramp 
down firmly. Leave a depression around 
tree to collect and hold moisture. jd 
CHART 
MATURE LOCATIONS PRUNING TIPS—See notes at bottom 
HEIGHT DO WELL IN WHEN BLOOM of chart 279 
Pink Almond 4-6 ft~ Sun April Light—after blooming 
Althea. .. 5-7 ft. Sun Aug.-Sept. Early Spring—light 
Barberry 2-4 ft. Sun or Shade | Red berries & foliage Light—any time 
Beauty Bush.. 4-6 ft. Sun May-June After blooming—tight 
Butterfly Bush. ... .-| 3-5 ft Sun All summer Cut to ground each winter 
Deutzia-Pride of R........ 5-7 ft. Part shade and) May-June Light—after blooming 
sun : Pa Nene : 
Flowering Crab........... 12-14 Sun May Light—after blooming * 
Golden Bell,............. 4-6 f Part shade or | April “Light—after blooming ‘ 
sun 5 * 
Golden Elder............. 4-6 ft. Full sun Yellow foliage Fairly heavy—any time 
Hydrangea.............55 3-5 ft. Part shade A. G. early summer Heavy—ate fall or early spring 
east or No. owe 
side 
P. G. Late summer Si, 
Honeysuckle, . Shade or sun | April Light unless for hedge—Early spring 
Lilacs. 3... Part shade or} May Light—after blooming se 
sun > 4 
Mock Orange ............ Part shade or} April 4 Light—after blooming x fi 
sun . 
Flowering Plum. ......... 8-9 ft. Full sun April : Light—after blooming 
Red Buds...” 22 eaves tela 12-15 ft. Part shade or | April None ieee oy Al 
sun = : te oe 
Snowball. ........200204 6-8 ft. Part shade or | May-June Early spring—light Ar: 
sun i 
Snowberry ............-. 3-4 ft. Shade or sun | Waxy white berries inj Light—early spring pa 
mid summer Ete; 
Spirea A. W.........--05- 14-2 ft. Sun All summer » Can be cut to ground each spring. 
Cut off flowers as they dryup 4 
Spirea Van Houttei 4-6 ft. Shade or sun | April-May- Light—cut from ground after blooming __ 
Spirea Thunbergia. 3-5 ft. Sun April Light—after blooming * 
Spirea Billardi. . 3-5 ft. Sun June-July Light—Early spring 
Spirea Prun, ............ 4-6 ft. Part shade or] April-May After blooming 
sun ? 4 
Sumac 6-8 ft. Su or sun pee, foliage red in| Any time needed 4 - 
a ‘a she 
amare; is -4 cue dean 6-8 ft. Sun or shade} May-June-July Early spring. Every few years cutto — 
ground if plant is spindly 
Weigela. . 4-6 ft. Part shade May 7 Light—after blooming at 
PLANTING CHART—B 
™ 
PECENMALS 
a 
ies 
NING STAR  'Z010 FASHIONED 
7c 4 
JARCISSUS <> 
Cita 
the ground freezes with about 6 inches of 
Oat or Wheat straw or some other light 
mulch that will not paek and rot. Do not 
apply until after the ground freezes or the 
mice will get in and make~their holes and 
eat your plants during the winter. Do not 
remove mulch until after the ground com- 
pletely thaws in the spring and then remove 
top of the mulch first and then gradually 
remove the remainder. : 
Watering—Hoe or. cultivate frequently, 
stirring the ground after rain or watering. 
In dry weather water thoroughly once a 
week. The best plan is to make a basin 
around the plant and fill it full of water 
several times until the ground is soaked 12 
inches or more deep. After the water has 
eoakea away, then fill up the basin with dry 
irt. 
It is much better to let the water run out 
of the hose without a nozzle than it is to 
stand and sprinkle with a nozzle, | 
Henry Field Seed & Nursery Co., “MIDWEST’S LEADING S 
*Light pruning means removing only crooked or very old woody stems when needed. * See 
**Heavy pruning means plants can be cut to ground each winter if low growth is desired. These plants bloom on new wood. 
MUST BE PLANTED IN WELL-DRAINED SOIL 
— NorTicE—— IN| 
ALS, LILIES, BULBS, ROOTS AND TUBERS ie 
UBRUM AUMATUM 
BusKe any 
About Fall Planting. 
Besides the fall bulbs, such as tulips, hya- — 
cinths, narcissus and the like which must be _ 
fall planted, almost all hardy nursery stock ~ 
ean be planted in the fall as well as in © 
the spring. In fact, many plants do even — 
BETTER fall planted than spring set. ae 
You see, by planting stock, in October and 
November when the stock is dormant, you — 
give the plant a chance to become estab- 
lished in its new location. before growing — 
time starts. The roots, below the frost — 
line, START GROWTH AT ONCH, and for © 
this reason, fall planted stock often is way — 
ahead of spring planted stock the following 
summer. Do not expect most fall planted ma-_ 
terial to make top growth before winter be- — 
cause it won't. : age 
Fall planting is just the same as spring 
anting except pruning should be done e A : 
S 
t 
1 
The next spring, and a mound of dirt at 
a foot high should be-pulled up on t oO: 
any shrub, tree, roses, peonies, orien’ 
poppies, lilies, and left there until sp 
“Shenandoah, 
