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How to Grow Good Gladiolus 
CARE OF NEW BULBS: The bulbs you receive should 
be opened for ventilation. Small amounts, place the 
opened bags in a shallow carton and store in cool dry 
place. Prevent freezing. Large amounts, empty into 
shallow trays to admit air. Label carefully. 
WHEN TO PLANT: When the trees native to your vicin- 
ity are unfolding their leaves, all danger of frost is past. 
From then until the middle of June in northern states. 
Large bulbs of early blooming varieties may be planted 
in late June in Wisconsin and bloom before frost. 
WHERE TO PLANT: Open sunny place (as your vege- 
table garden) not too near buildings, nor close to a foun- 
dation. Buildings shade and retard development; or re- 
flect strong sunlight and burn the bloom. Lack of free 
drainage, sunshine and aeration as well as ingredients 
in mortar make infertile and sour soil. Keep away from 
trees or deep rooted shrubs. 
KIND OF SOIL: A good garden having sandy loam is 
best. Some glad fans having heavy loam have added a 
bit of sand in the trench with the bulbs, then place peat 
moss above to hold moisture. In particular, to the small- 
er sizes, which are planted shallow. Any good garden soil 
will be kept loose with cultivation and grow fine gladiolus. 
CONTROL OF THRIP: .Various dry poisons are being 
tried. Rotenone dust may be applied lightly, using one 
tablespoon powdered over 100 bulbs. This may be left 
on bulbs until planting time. This is not injurious to hu- 
mans. Same rotenone powder is dusted on the growing 
plants for control of thrips. 
The 5% DDT in talc is another dusting formula which 
remains on the bulbs until they are planted. Be careful 
in its use, for DDT is more poisononus to humans if air 
is filled in a small room. One may wear a mask over the 
nose to prevent inhaling too much poisonous dust. 
ALL BULBS SHOULD BE DISINFECTED BEFORE 
PLANTING: Nothing can cure bulbs affected with any 
of the rots. Discard all such. However, if affected only 
with slight scab they may be safely planted if disinfected 
with one good disinfectant. Growers of gladiolus bulbs 
are keenly aware of the necessity of destroying or control 
of disease of the bulbs. Simvle and most effective to date 
is the NEW IMPROVED CERESAN. 
New Improved Ceresan. 1 oz. N. I. Ceresan, 3 gallons of 
water. Weigh carefully and leave bulbs in solution 15 
minutes. Do not leave bulbs i nsolution over 20 minutes 
and plant immediately after dipping. Lysol — 1 table- 
spoon Lysol, 1 gallon of water. Soak 4 to 6 hours im- 
mediately preceding planting. Bichloride of Mercury — 1 
oz. Bichloride of Mercury, 7 gallons water. Soak 10 to 12 
hours immediately preceding planting. Plant wet. Must 
be used in an earthen or wooden container. 
PLANTING SUGGESTIONS: In spring at planting time, 
use only well-rotted manure or a commercial fertilizer 
QUANTITY | SIZE 
| | 
VARIETY NAME , RATE 
(as used for field corn) at the bottom of your trench, cover 
with thin layer of soil. To obtain early bloom use large 
high crown bulbs of early blooming varieties. Agriculture 
scientists have found that no extra fertilizer should be 
used on these large bulbs. It is the No. 3 and smaller that 
profit by adding nitrogen. Have your soil tested at the* 
agriculture college of your state and add only the sub- 
stance your soil is deficient and needs. Small gardens 
profit by addition of leaves and other compost material. 
Any fertilizer should be used in moderate quantity. Plant 
bulbs six inches apart; the large bulbs four inches deep— 
smaller ones less to three inches, bulblets only one inch 
in flat trench. Bulblets of most varieties do not bloom 
in Wisconsin the first year, but will give much delight to 
the home gardener by producing many young thrifty 
bulbs from a small space. To produce more bulblets the 
plant needs four leaves left on when the spike is cut. 
THRIP SPRAYS FOR BLOOMS 
I Spray Formula ; 
1 oz. tartar emetic 
3 oz. corn syrup 
3 gallons water 
Mix well and spray weekly after foliage is in third leaf. 
II Spray Formula 
DDT is proving most effective of all sprays. 
2 rounded teaspoons DDT (the 50% soluble) 
1 teaspoon Dreft 
2 gallons water 
Mix well and spray weekly after foliage is in third leaf. 
Visible signs of thrip are silvery streaks on leaves, the 
buds are brown, the highly colored flowers have pigment 
removed and floret deformed. On a bad infestation the 
buds do not open. r 
BLOOMS: Cut flower spike when first bud is open. Keep 
in water. Daily change water and cut end of-spike on a 
slant. Use sharp knife for all cutting. Slide knife down 
along second leaf from top, cut on slant half way through 
stem, then cut from opposite side to remove spike. One 
may cut half through stem and bend slightly; the stem will 
snap out of the leaf sheath. 
DIGGING: Plants grow five to six weeks after flowers 
are cut to mature the bulbs and produce bulblets. The 
leaves are still green color when bulbs should be dug, 
top cut close to bulbs, which are placed in shallow trays 
for quick drying. If left in ground too long dry rot and 
scab diseases attack bulbs. Sunshine drying and free 
circulation of air for two weeks make fast curing. In one 
month the bulbs have cured so the old bulbs may be re- 
moved easily. Outer husk should be left on to protect 
bulb from bruise and excessive drying. 
STORAGE: A cool, dry storage of 40° to 50° Fahren- 
heit in a vegetable cellar is good. Open flat tray not more 
than the depth of two bulbs gives circulation of air. Dust 
lightly with rotenone dust or 5% DDT tale and leave un- 
til planting time. 
AMOUNT 
TOTAL. $7, eh ee © Rees 
