that time they have usually deepened themselves below the depth of frost penetration. We 
cannot guarantee against loss by freezing, but we offer rather large tubers that will help. 
Assorted varieties. Large tubers, 50c ea., $4.00 per doz. Order early. 
Alstroemeria seed are about the size of radish seed and are as easy to grow. We 
saved a few from mixed colors and varieties. Price, 15 seed for 30c. 30 seed for 50c. 
Amarcrinum Howardii (Crinodonna Howardi is the better name.) A cross between 
Brunsvigia rosea (Amaryllis belladonna) and Crinum moorei. Flowers are a pure pink and 
very attractive. It is a fall bloomer and should be ordered early. If not, it may skip bloom- 
ing the present season. Invaluable as a pot plant or in outside garden in the south. $2.50 
each. Larger bulbs, $4.00 each. 
Amaryllis Linn. This genus as constructed by Linneaus was untenable because he 
included plants now known to belong to other genera. The invalid name Hippeastrum was 
used by both Herbert and Baker, but now we are scientifically correct when we use the 
name that has always been most popular. To the word “Hippeastrum,” literally trans- 
- lated “horse star,” we can now say “horse feathers” and forget the word. 
Amaryllis are the easiest, the most showy and popular of all bulbs for growing in 
pots. Equally desirable for southern gardens where they are hardy along the east coast 
to N. Car. and on the west to Vancouver. In the middle section they may be grown as 
far north as Ark. and Okla., but note special directions for colder sections. 
How to Grow Amaryllis. In the garden, in the deep south where temperatures go 
only a few degrees under freezing, Amaryllis bulbs need to be covered only about an 
inch or two. Farther north they should be planted about an inch below frost penetration, 
in protected places and mulched with straw, leaves and/or brush. In Okla., a customer 
reports a depth of 4” with mulch is safe. Try our “Hardy Hybrids” and don’t plant over 
about 6” deep to top of bulb. 4” deep is better. 
_ We do not advise you to plant imported or greenhouse grown bulbs in the outside - 
garden. They seldom last more than a year or two. These high-bred “hybrids” have been 
bred for the perfection of the flowers. Little or no attention has been given to sturdiness 
and vigor. They can be shifted to the garden for summer growth but they must be given 
special attention, watered frequently and fertilized carefully. Take them inside for the 
- winter. 
In Pots. A bulb 3” or less in diam. needs a 7” pot, and larger bulbs need larger pots. 
It is better to pot in Nov. or Dec. Better blooms result. But one can pot them as late as 
March and it is better late than never. The early potted bulbs will start more easily and 
give better flowers, but in either case the flowers will be better and will show more fully 
their full quality the second year. 
The best potting soil is a rich sandy loam. If not sandy use a friable loam and add 
sand. To this add an equal quantity of well screened and well rotted dairy manure and 
leaf mould. Use no fresh or partially decayed manure. The use of peat or sphagnum of 
a very low pH should be moderate as Amaryllis do not like a too acid soil. Seedlings grow 
well in soil mixture containing sphagnum well broken up by rubbing. Many seedlings 
like more acidity than mature plants because they germinate in nature on or near the 
soil surface where humus is more abundant than at a depth to which roots of mature 
plants penetrate. For the large bulbs one tablespoonful of bone meal to each pot is recom- 
mended. Mix all ingredients thoroly. 
In potting the bulbs, carefully preserve any living roots, even remnants. Clean but 
do not scrape the base of the bulb and dust the moistened surface of base and the. roots 
with Rootone. If there are no roots, coat base of bulb with Rootone, which will hasten 
their formation. | 
_ Pot the bulb two-thirds above surface and water enough to settle soil. After this keep 
the soil only slightly moist until growth starts, then gradually increase. When first potted 
set them in a cool, light room but not in sunlight, the best temperature now is not over 
50°. The bulbs must have sufficient time to form a good root system under these con- 
ditions. If placed in a warm room and exposed to the sun, top growth will be made be- 
fore roots, and the result may be poor flowers or none. 
When you are sure that roots have formed, but not before, water the plants as di- 
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