CABBAGE, Continued 
Late or Winter Varieties 
Danish Ball Head or Hollander—A 
widely used late type. Deep, round, 
hard, compact heads, 7 to 8-in., 6 to 
7-lb. Tender, crisp, fine for kraut. 100 
to 105 days. 
Premium Late Flat Dutch—The best 
late variety. Large ,round, flat solid 
heads of perfect shape. Less inclined 
to burst than many varieties. Tender; 
fine quality. 
Red Variety 
Mammoth Red Rock—Best of the red 
cabbages. Hard, round. Purplish-red 
heads. Good keeper, 6 to 8-in., 7 to 
8 lb. heads. 100 days. 
CHINESE CABBAGE 
Must never be grown as a spring crop 
since it will only go to seed. Plant after 
June 15, as days are getting shorter, 
then it will head. An excellent succession 
crop to follow early peas. 
Chihili or Improved Pekin—Depend- 
able, early. Solid, tapered heads, 3 to 
4-in. thick, 18 to 20-in. long. 75 days. 
CARROTS 
Use sandy loam enriched by manure the 
previous year, if possible; but any good 
land if deeply and well worked will pro- 
duce a good crop. Sow seed as early as 
ground can be worked. Sow seed Y2” to 
1” deep in drills 16” to 18” apart. 
Press soil firmly above seed. When plants 
appear use cultivator or wheel hoe and 
thin from 2” to 6” apart, according to 
type. Keep cultivated. 
Chantenay, Red Cored (fr)—Root has 
thick shoulder and tapers to slight 
stump root, 5-in. long. Red cored. 70 
days to maturity. 
Danvers Half Long — Sweet, tender 
roots, 6 to 7-in. long tapering to a 
blunt point. Fine for storing. 75 days. 
Improved Imperator (fr)—Fine-grain- 
ed, tender. Rich orange, indistinct 
core. Roots smooth, tapered to semi- 
blunt. Edible in 77 days. 
Nantes Improved Coreless (fr)—Ex- 
cellent for forcing. Tops small, roots 
bright orange, blunt ended. Flesh red- 
dish orange and practically coreless. 
70 days. 
Oxheart or Guerande—Excellent for 
shallow soil, easy to harvest Chunky, 
tender and sweet. Bright orange. 
Keeps well. 72 to 75 days. 
CAULIFLOWER 
Packet, 25c 
Needs rich soil and abundant watering. 
Cultivate same as cabbage but protect 
heads from sunlight to insure the prized 
white curd. This is done by gathering 
leaves together loosely as soon as heads 
begin forming, and tying them well at 
the top. 
Early Snowball(fr)—Best and most 
widely used early variety. Medium, 
firm compact heads of fine flavor. 6-7 
inches in diameter. 55 days. 
CELERIAC 
Large Smooth Prague—(Turnip root- 
ed celery). Smooth spherical roots. 2 
to 3-in. thick. 120 days. 
CELERY 
Start in shaded hotbed 60 days before 
needed. Cover seeds Y%”. Transplant 
when 6” high. In setting outdoors, don’t 
get soil in or over crown, Set 7” to 12” 
apart. Soil must be rich, moist and loose. 
As soon as plants have grown to 14” to 
15” tall, set 12” boards on both sides 
of row and hold in place with earth, 
Or 4” drain tile can be used to blanch 
individual stalks, Celery must have warm, 
settled weather: If chilled, plants are 
likely to go to seed. Keep soil well 
fertilized and moist. Crop matures in 
cool weather of autumn. 
Giant Pascal—Late variety for winter 
use .Large plant, dark green leaves. 
Big solid stalks that blanch to yellow 
white. 135 days. 
GOLDEN SELF BLANCHING 
Golden Self Blanching, Dwarf—Com- 
pact plants, yellowish green foliage. 
Broad _ solid stalks, nutty flavor. 
Blanches readily. 120 days. 
Wonderful or Golden Plume—Early, 
medium plant with compact, full 
heart. Blanches easily to golden yel- 
low. 112 to 115 days. 
COLLARDS 
Sow seed heavily and transplant when 
4” high, or sow in rows in permanent 
beds and thin to 16” to 18” apart 
when plants are well started. 
Southern or Georgia—An excellent 
cooked green. Long stemmed plant, 
with clustered leaves. Withstands heat 
and bad soil. 24 to 36 days. 
SOIL TOO HEAVY IF CARROTS "'CORKSCREW" 
Heavy, clay soils because of their density 
resist the downward growth of long, slender 
rooted vegetables. For instance, Imperator 
Carrots and Icicle Radishes will twist and 
bend to follow the. lines of least resistance 
to growth in heavy soil. This unusual appear- 
ance is called 'Corkscrewing" and it visually 
indicates lack of soil porosity and humus. 
Sand added to heavy soil will assist in re- 
lieving density but it should be accompanied 
with peat moss or one of the new Vermi- 
culite materials. Vermiculite is a sterile type 
of rock which has been heated and caused 
N 
to explode into a highly absorbent substance 
that is about the size of gravel. 
Peat moss is a selected, organic material 
formed years ago by the growth and decay 
of various aquatic plants. It, too, relieves 
soil density as well as supplying organic 
material and contributing to the formation 
of humus. It also binds and increases moist- 
ure holding capacity in sandy soil and acts 
as a reservoir for soluble plant food. 
Both Vermiculite and peat moss absorb 
moisture during wet periods and hold it for 
the plant roots when they need it during 
dry weather. 
SWEET CORN 
For the home gardener, the simplest 
way to plant sweet corn is in rows or 
drills, not in hills. Plant on north side 
of garden or so late summer shade from 
your corn does not retard growth o} 
other nearby vegetables. Space the rows 
36” apart, and plant a seed about every 
3”. Thin stalks to stand 9” to 12” 
apart in row. The drill should be 3” to 
4” deep, but don’t cover seed with more 
than 1” of soil. The drill or furrow 
can be filled in as the plants grow to 
anchor them against the wind. 
In hills, plant 4 to 6 grains per hill. 
Later thin to 2 or 3 stalks to a hill. 
Space several plantings at intervals of 
14 days for continuous crop. 
Removing suckers has been standard 
practice with practically all growers. Now, 
experiments prove that removing suckers 
merely takes away extra food-producing 
leaves and so hurts rather than helps 
growth, Also, suckering often disturbs 
roots enough to injure plant. Always 
plant corn in several short rows side by 
side rather than one long row. Corn is 
pollinated by wind and rows side-by- 
side mean that all the stalks can be 
reached by the pollen. Many home gar- 
deners, on reading newspaper accounts of 
corn de-tasseling, assume that this is nec- 
essary to set ears. On the contrary, re- 
moving tassels may cut the crop seriously. 
Detasseling is only done where hybrid 
corn is raised for seed purposes. The 
more pollen that flies, the better the set 
of kernels, So don’t detassel sweet corn 
in the home garden. If weeds are under 
control, stop cultivating. If weeds are 
bad late in the season, work the soil as 
shallow as possible to avoid injuring sur- 
face feeder roots. 
Hybrids 
We offer Hybrid Sweet Corn varieties 
known as the best for your garden— 
the finest that can be procured any- 
where. We list here only a few of 
these choice kinds. Whatever your 
needs or your preference, be sure we 
can supply you with the kind of corn 
you want. Talk it over with us. 
Golden Cross Bantam (fr)—Extreme- 
ly uniform. Ears 10 to 14 rows, 
slightly lighter yellow than Golden 
Bantam. Highly resistant to Stewart’s 
disease. 85 days. 
Ioana (fr)—1940 All-America. Ears 
74% to 8-in., well-filled with 12 or 14 
rows of deep, medium narrow, light 
yellow kernels. Highly resistant to 
drought and bacteria wilt. 87 days. 
Marcross (fr)—An early wilt-resistant 
hybrid, producing deep golden yellow 
kernels 7 days earlier than Golden 
Bantam. Ears 6 to 7-in. long, with 
12-14 rows of large sweet kernels. 73 
days to maturity. 
Continued on Next Page 
