Hemerocallis 
(DAYLILIES) 
CULTURE OF DAYLILIES 
TIME TO PLANT. Daylilies may be 
planted during the spring, summer and 
fall. Local conditions will govern the 
best time for planting, which should be 
done at a time when the plants will be 
able to establish themselves and begin 
prompt growth. Fall planting should 
be early enough to permit the plants to 
become well established before cold 
weather. Daylily roots are packed damp 
and should not be allowed to dry out. 
SOILS AND CULTIVATION. Almost 
any garden soil is suitable for daylilies. 
They will thrive in dry areas or in damp 
locations, among rocks, and in rich or 
poor soil. Too much shade may produce 
weak scapes or stems. Light cultivation 
to keep down weeds is all that is neces- 
saly. Deep cultivation too near the 
plants may injure the roots. Dead scapes 
should be removed after blooming. Dead 
leaves serve as a mulch throughout the 
winter and should be removed. in the 
spring. 
PLANTING. In planting spread the 
roots naturally and cover about two 
inches with pulverized soil. The exact 
depth will depend on the size and type 
of the plant, but it is usually easy tc 
tell from the color of the leaves the 
depth at which the plant has been grow- 
ing. Too deep planting is injurious. 
Firm the soil so that roots and crown 
are in good contact with the soil. Water 
after planting if the ground is dry. 
DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS. Pests 
and diseases of a serious nature have 
never been reported for daylilies. Light 
attacks of leaf spot are sometimes ob- 
served and rarely plants may be at- 
tacked by thrips, but these infestations 
cause little damage. Daylilies are sur- 
passed by no other garden plant in free- 
dom from disease. 
WINTER INJURY. In northern sections 
of the country daylilies which have the 
evergreen habit of growth may suffer 
some winter injury, but if plants are 
well established or protected by a coarse 
mulch the injury is usually not severe. 
Deciduous varieties are usually hardy. 
Evergreen varieties are at their best 
in the south but most deciduous sorts 
thrive there also. The deciduous or 
evergreen habit is not an infallible guide 
to hardiness but merely an indication. 
In our descriptions the habit of growth 
is indicated for many sorts as ev. for 
evergreen and de. for deciduous. 
ALADDIN (Stout 1941)—Deep cadmium 
yellow with a contrasting band of garnet- 
brown midway on the petals, June-July, 
OTIC ICON ay net ON OC ee ie ae $0.75 
AMHERST (Wheeler)—Large blooms of 
-light purple with cream white midrib, 
vellow throat. We have not seen this 
variety bloom on thoroughly established 
plants, but its color seems to be one of 
the most distinctive and beautiful of all 
new sorts. Older so-called purples are 
not purple at all in comparison with this 
CT ATER, aps Aopen Cis, Ri ts GMS le a game ole $12.00 
APRICOT (Yeld 1892) — Light apricot 
orange, very early, 24 inch, de. ____ $0.50 
APRICOT DREAM (H. M. Hill 1949)— 
An apricot toned self of fine form and 
color, good sized flowers, quite tall, up 
to 60 inches, midseason _~_______~_ $5.00 
ARABY (Howard 1937)—Mellow cham- 
ois tone with brown eye zone, strong, 
Carl yA Gali Chis Cle kart ee ee Oe eee sei sate $0.50 
ATHLONE (‘Russell)—High class bicolor 
with rich chestnut red petals and soft 
buff sepals, 38-inch, midseason __$3.00 
AUGUST ORANGE (Stout 1946)—New 
golden orange, a profuse bloomer on 
wide branched stems, midseason, 36-inch 
AUGUST PIONEER (Stout 1939)—Neat 
orange with slight red flush, slender 
branched stems, Aug.-Sept., 34-inch, 
FS Fly EN OPN Me Ga Ra Ns EA Nad pie NICHE $0.50 
AURANTIACA MAJOR (Wallace 1895) 
—Large yellow of open form, has been 
widely used in hybridizing, 30-inch, 
PSN epee Mba Be PUNE SAR Pa SMM A LEE NS) the $0.50 
AUTUMN RED (Nesmith 1941)— Fine 
red that gives a long season of bloom, 
Oran’ e cen tet. deo ee Al es $1.00 
BABY TEARS (Russell)—Dainty ruffled 
gold, petals deeply marked with red to- 
ward the end, June-July, 36-inch, 
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