14 GRESHAM’S NURSERY 
lowering ‘Deciduous Shrubs 
In diversity of form, variety of species, contrast of foliage and variation of blos- 
som this group holds unusual interest and as a group they prove to be the finishing 
touches of virtually all landscape plantings. With trees we have made our bolder out- 
lines and shaded the grounds—but we use deciduous shrubs to soften the borders or 
edges of drives, walks and boundaries; to emphasize some lawn feature; to mellow 
rigid lines or sharp angles; to fill depressions; to screen objectionable views; to cover 
slopes or divide areas. From early spring, yes, even late winter, they unfold their 
wondrous bowers of yellow, pink, white and red flowers on backgrounds of purple, yel- 
low, light and dark green foliage. The attractive fruits and berries often adhere after 
- autumn has spread its brilliant colors on the foliage. Proper selection as to height 
and careful choosing of varieties will insure the accomplishments mentioned and pro- 
vide a source of indescribable pleasure. 
PLANTING SUGGESTIONS 
There is frequently a tendency to overplant in the attempt of immediate effect. 
Do not be impatient as it takes several years to grow mature plants. So, in planning 
your requirements, here is a general rule to apply: On real good soil the spread of a 
shrub usually approximates the height; in other words, a five to six foot shrub will 
spread just about that much. Of course, there will naturally be exceptions to this rule. 
Dig holes and plant as deeply as they stood in the nursery row. Shake the plants 
so the soil will sift into the roots. Some shrubs have great masses of fibrous roots 
and if the soil is merely thrown on top, they will surely die. Contact with every root 
insures growth, so work the earth carefully through these masses. 
At the time of planting, it is beneficial to prune shrubs by taking off at least a 
third of the tops. 
The pruning after development frequently causes confusion. “Prune when the 
knife is sharp” has long been a saying and few, if any, shrubs were ever killed by 
pruning. One time is really no better than another; but, unless otherwise necessary, 
you will find that the best results are obtained by light pruning immediately after the 
blossoms fall. Heavy pruning at any time will cause the plants to put aside their 
blossom-forming buds and make wood growth, and you lose or lessen the next season’s 
blossom. That is why light pruning is suggested annually or biennially. Pruning’ in 
the dormant stage is not injurious and some plants can be so much better shaped when 
the branches are defoliated. In all pruning it is suggested to not bob off the tops and 
make hedges of your massed plants. This causes a new “break” or ugly offset, giving 
them a two-story effect. Shorten the canes to side branches so they will develop all 
the natural tendency or other characteristics of the plant. To remove canes, cut close 
to the crowns as this causes them to renew naturally from the bottoms. Now for the 
perpetual exceptions—all terminal blooming plants like hydrangeas, hypericum, bush 
roses, etc., that bloom on the “tips” of the new growth, need severe pruning if large 
blossoms are wanted. Constantly renew this young wood by pruning in the dormant 
and semi-dormant period only. On all shrubs, cut out all dead and old wood. Lilacs 
should be pruned only once every six or seven years, and then cut back hard. Nothing 
benefits a shrub more than proper pruning. When done correctly, you will be rewarded 
with a wealth of bloom and beauty of shape. 
