BULTURE 
The numbers, I to VIII, found with every 
flower listing refer to the following culture 
notes which give directions for growing 
all of the flowers we list. 
One of the important problems in the 
garden is that of maintaining a continuous 
show of bloom. This calls for the use 
of several different types of annuals, such 
as those that must be planted early to 
grow in cool weather (Culture IV) and 
those which bloom later in summer heat 
(Culture I and II). If some of the cool- 
weather annuals from Group IV are sown 
in mid-summer and kept well watered, 
they will grow ,slowly until the cooler 
days of fall start them into more active 
growth. These will produce late flowers. 
Quick-growing annuals from Group II may 
also be sown at intervals for a succession 
of bloom during the summer. 
One way to lengthen the blooming period 
of annuals is to cut off all flowers as soon 
as they fade. Annuals complete their life 
span when seed is formed and frequent- 
ly stop flowering as socn as the seed 
ripens. By preventing the seed from form- 
ing through removal of all old flowers, the 
plants are kept growing and blooming. 
Culture I 
These flowers need a long season and 
must be started indoors if a full blooming 
period is to be had. If early bloom is not 
important, they will bloom later in the 
summer when sown directly in the gar- 
den. Some gardeners sow both ways to 
obtain a succession of flowers. 
When starting seedlings indoors, select a 
place with plenty of light. North or 
shaded windows may be too dark for best 
results. Cold frames are generally very 
good. The seed is planted in small boxes 
(or flat) that have good drainage and will 
fit the space you are going to use. Fill 
them with a mixture of ¥% good soil, ¥% 
sand and 3 humus such as peat. Press 
the soil down firmly and make small rows 
with the edge of a ruler or lath and 
slowly shake the seed from the packet 
into the rows. Sift a light covering of the 
soil mixture over the seed and moisten 
with a fine spray. Keep soil moist until 
the seeds have sprouted. Very fine seed 
such as that of petunias should be dusted 
carefully onto a smooth soil surface and 
covered with a pane of glass. Shade it 
with newspaper until the seeds sprout. 
These are best watered by setting the flat 
-in a pan of water until the ‘soil has 
become thoroughly dampened all the way 
through. When the seedlings have formed 
the second true leaves, transplant them 
into other flats so the plants are about 
2 inches apart. This will give them room 
to grow to good size before being set 
cut. Expose gradually to outside condi- 
tions and plant outside after the weather 
is warm and settled. When sown cutdoors, 
follow directions under Culture II. 
Culture Ii 
These are the quicker-growing annuals that 
can be sown directly in the garden and 
will bloom in time to make a good display 
for most of the summer. If wanted espe- 
cially early, they should be started as 
directed under Culture I, Some flower 
seedlings are rather delicate. Extra care in 
preparing the seed bed will pay dividends 
in better plants. 
Prepare soil with a liberal amount of mixed 
fertilizer and organic matter and dig it in. 
Rake the surface until it is smooth and 
pulverized. Sow the seed at a depth equal 
to three times the diameter of the seed. 
Fine seed can be spread on the surface 
and pressed in without covering. 
Keep soil moist by light spraying until 
the seedlings have formed the first true 
leaves. When they are large enough to 
handle, they may be transplanted to other 
parts of the garden. 
Culture III 
These flowers do not transplant well. They 
should be planted where they are to 
bloom. 
Sow as soon as the weather begins to 
warm in the spring. Otherwise the culture 
is the same as II. Sow seed thinly or 
remove the smaller plants after they are 
up. These can be handled as pot-grown 
plants as in Culture VII. 
Culture IV 
These flowers are usually hardy an- 
nuals that can withstand very cool weather. 
They are often sown late in fall so they 
can start growing the first warm days of 
spring. If not sown in fall, they should be 
planted as early in the spring as possible. 
Fall sowing gets the seeding job out of 
the way before the spring rush, 
Culture V 
These flowers, while garden subjects, are 
also useful for -winter-flowering house 
plants. For garden use, handle as in 
Culture II. For winter flowering in- 
doors, plant fairly late in the season 
and transplant into small pots as soon as 
they are large enough. Keep moving them 
to larger pots as rcots fill the soil until 
they are finally in six-inch pots. Annuals 
in pots should have at least six hours of 
direct sunlight daily if they are to flower. 
in the spring or in early summer 
when the rush of spring work is 
over. A cold frame or sheltered 
bed which can be shaded from 
the direct sun is best. Prepare soil 
thoroughly with plenty of crganic 
matter. A loose friable soil will 
produce a thick mat of roots so 
that the seedlings will trans- 
plant more easily. Perennial 
seedlings are rather weak 
growers needing extra care. 
In covering the drills in 
which the seeds are sown, 
use either pure, clean sand 
or a mixture of half sand 
and half peat. This prevents 
packing of the soil over the 
seeds, Always water with a 
fine spray. 
As soon as the 
leaves form, 
seedlings may 
be transplanted 
into their 
permanent po- 
sition, Or, if 
more conven- 
ient, they may 
be left in the 
seed-bed until 
the following 
spring, Under this 
culture, only a 
few species will 
bloom the first 
year and they wiil 
not produce normal 
flowers until the following 
year. Planting earlier does 
increase the chances for 
flowers the first year. But, 
if it is more convenient, 
Culture I may be used. 
second 
--- How to grow all fiowers 
listed in this Garden Annual 
Culture VII 
These varieties need a longer growing 
season than can be given them outdoors. 
And because they do not transplant 
well, they must be started in pots set 
out without disturbing the roots. Other- 
wise Culture is the same as I. The 
use of plant bands allows you to set the 
seedlings out without disturbing the roots. 
The bands soon rot away and the seed- 
lings will grow as though started in the 
garden. 
Culture VIII 
These flowers are biennials, They make a 
leafy growth the first year but do not 
flower. The leafy growth of the first year 
forms food for blooming the following 
year. The flowers appear the second year 
and then the plant dies. 
This means that a continuous show from 
biennials must be provided by starting 
new plants every year to replace those 
that are flowering. Biennials are handled 
in the same way as perennials except that 
they are started early in the spring to al- 
low the plant to store as much food as 
possible for the next year’s bloom. 
Many gardeners start biennials in the veg- 
etable garden or special starting bed 
and then transplant the ones needed 
to the flower garden the following 
spring. During the winter, bi- 
ennials should be given the 
same treatment as perennials. 
