CYMBIDIUMS AUSTRALIA 
Text and pictures by Graham Morris 
6. How to get the best out of your 
orchids 
The first three or four months after 
flowering finishes, is the most important 
time of the year, in which lots of small 
decisions and actions, will decide how 
successful the next flowering season will 
be. Most successful growers are busy in 
the period, from mid August, to the end of 
November, checking and boosting the con- 
dition of their plants and ensuring they can 
take advantage of that good growing 
period. Most of the flower spikes will be 
initiated in this time. 
Plants can be divided into three cate- 
gories. 
a. Plants which flowered successfully in 
the season just finished 
b. Plants which should have flowered but 
did not 
c. Smaller plants which are now big 
enough to flower next season 
a. Plants which have finished flowering, 
and those about to finish, have been 
through a stress period. Flowering takes a 
lot out of a plant, especially if it had a lot of 
flowers, or was in a relatively dark and dry 
environment, in a domestic building or an 
orchid club show venue. Artificial lighting 
and hot, dry, air conditioning atmospheres 
are not what a cymbidium enjoys. 
Inspect each plant and assess if it needs 
special attention. Many will require pot- 
ting on, into a larger pot, or dividing into 
two or three pieces. More on that in a later 
article. Some plants just look soft (often 
dusty). Be prepared to knock the plant out 
of the pot and inspect the root system. 
The root system is a good indicator of 
how happy the plant is. Many will have a 
very tight root ball, with mainly firm white, 
or cream coloured roots. This condition is 
great, unless it is completely root bound, 
with little, or no potting mix visible. If it is 
thoroughly root bound, it is wise to con- 
sider potting it on — see next edition. 
GLENWOOD ORCHIDS Pty. Ltd. 
1265 Western Port Hwy. Langwarrin. Vic. 3910 
Introducing... 
Cym. Top Act ‘Fabulous’ 
>» -'\| Anew seedling flowered in 2008 this clone has 
been set aside for use in our future breeding 
program. 
This grex, bred from (Valley Zenith ‘Green Orb’ x 
Operetta), is one of many quality items from the 
same cross. 
New seedlings are now flowering almost daily 
so there is always something to see. 
For the past two years we have been making considerable changes to our nursery, we have doubled 
our growing capacity already and further expansion is planned for the future. 
In spite of a horrific summer, and severe water restrictions we have an excellent crop of flower spikes 
at various stages of growth. A host of new stud plants will be available to us from various genera. 
Watch for our redesigned Web Site. It will now include downloadable, printable catalogues in PDF 
format, and, we will be adding new photos periodically. 
Because of our expansion program, and damage to our stock during summer, we will need to retain 
more of our flask material than usual hence some items will be in short supply. 
Those who grow Zygopetalums should watch for an up and coming very special seedling Compot offer 
planned for late Spring! Details in our mew Web Site in due course! 
Those wanting regular e-mail lists should contact us indicating the specific genera lists required. 
Visit our Web Site: wi hi 
AOR - 122 
46 
i iu which is in the process of being 
updated and expanded. Email us at: chid XI u 
Phone: (03) 9782-2668 
For directions to our Nursery see: Melways Map: 136 G-3 
Leaving it for one more year may be ok, but 
by then, the root system may just be com- 
pletely overgrown. If the root ball contains 
lots of black, soft and hollow roots, or if the 
potting medium has obviously decayed 
badly, the plant needs immediate and sig- 
nificant attention. With sterile cutting 
tools, secateurs, knives etc, remove all 
dead or poor quality roots, and most of the 
decaying potting mix. You may be left with 
just a few roots, sometimes, virtually none. 
At our nursery, we generally remove at 
least half of the roots immediately. Just cut 
off the bottom half of the root ball and then 
trim any remaining poor quality roots, as 
required. Don’t be afraid to remove lots of 
roots. The plant will relatively quickly 
grow new, pearly white roots, if treated 
well. Re pot the plant firmly into its pot, by 
packing as much potting mix around it as 
possible. Don’t plant it too deep in the mix- 
ture, but even worse, don’t plant it with the 
bulbs too far above the surface of the pot- 
ting mix. During the process, remove any 
old leaf husks, and any damaged or badly 
yellowing leaves. If a plant is left with not 
enough roots to firmly hold it in the pot, 
without swaying, insert a stake firmly into 
the growing mix, and tie the leaves to the 
stake. Plant movement, relative to the pot 
will break off the new roots, as they appear. 
Make sure newly potted plants are watered 
very regularly. There was a belief many 
years ago, to water recently potted plants 
sparingly, and force them to seek moisture, 
by growing long roots. That just does not 
happen. A dose or two of seaweed extract 
at this time is very beneficial. Fertilise reg- 
ularly, but do not dose heavily. We find that 
most private growers fertilise at a rate, 
higher than what is good for your orchids. 
An old rule of thumb, of fertilising at half 
the recommended rate is most appropriate. 
Locally, we are getting great results, using 
the new fertilisers prepared by Neutrog. 
Seamungus is great from the end of flow- 
ering, until the end of January, then swap to 
Strike Back for Orchids, until flowering 
finishes. It is now available, nationally. 
Check also at this stage for pest infesta- 
tion. Scale can be a problem. It can be 
wiped off, or treated with a good insecti- 
cide, and an oil such as eco, pest, or white 
oil. Give all the foliage a good spraying, to 
remove dust, grime & insect populations 
b. Plants which were big enough to 
flower in the last season, but failed to do 
so, need extra consideration. The grower 
The Australian Orchid Review, June/July 2009 
