CULTURAL NOTES 
Keep plants just moist. This usually means, 
watering weekly on the east coast of Australia. 
Now is the time to start getting your com- 
post ready for the annual dividing and potting 
season. Remember, a lot of potting media that I 
saw last season had iron deficiencies. When 
mixing add 600 to 800 grams of ferrous sul- 
phate per cubic metre of mix. You could also 
add 400 grams of MICROMAX to the mix. 
Check the pH after mixing and again before 
using. I like to keep my mix around pH 6.00 
before using. Don’t forget ZEOLITES help 
down in the root zone. | 
Paphiopedilum 
Paphiopedilum hybirds are well into their 
flowering season. Most of the whites and early 
greens will be in flower, together with some of 
the coloured varieties. Many of the modern 
hybirds, particularly those with spotted flow- 
ers, will not flower until spring. Flower quality 
depends upon several factors; those under your 
control at this time of year are watering, feed- 
ing, staking and light. 
During winter paphiopedilums do not 
require frequent watering. Whilst the actual fre- 
quency will depend upon the weather, the type 
of housing and the state of the potting mixture, 
you must resist the temptation to pick up the 
hose unless the plants are moderately dry. 
When you do water, water early on a sunny day 
and water thoroughly. After every third or 
fourth watering allow the plants to drain for 
half an hour or so and then water with weak 
Aquasol (about half strength). 
Staking is important if you want to avoid 
asymmetrical flowers. Try to encourage the 
stems to grow upright from the start. You will 
be able to support the growing stem with a 
loose tie a couple of inches or so below the bud. 
When the stem is fully grown and the bud about 
to open, lean the pot forward about fifteen 
degrees or so and keep it in this position until 
the flower has been open about a week; this will 
cause the flowers to “look up” a little. 
Adequate light is very important for quality 
flowers. If at all possible, the amount of shad- 
ing should be reduced considerably from mid- 
May until early September. This will result in 
larger, brighter flowers and longer — yes, longer 
— stronger stems; the plants will also benefit by 
continuing their growth cycle, albeit at a slower 
rate, through the winter months. 
Although potting is best left until spring, any 
plant which is not doing well should be repot- 
ted into fresh mixture as soon as it is noticed, 
no matter what the season. If the roots have rot- 
ted away, dip the “bare rooted” plant in 
Fongarid and stake it firmly. 
As a general rule the green-leaved hybirds 
can be grown quite well in cold conditions pro- 
vided they are protected from heavy frost. 
Those with heated glasshouses do not need 
more than about six degrees centigrade, 
although young seedlings will benefit from 
somewhat warmer conditions. Maudiae types 
are really warm growers and require about fif- 
teen degrees to do well. | 
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Phalaenopsis 
Phalaenopsis have just started to produce a 
new set of roots. Most phalies seem to be grow- 
ing very well at the moment. Give plants a cool 
shock for a while to make them produce some 
new spikes. Here in Sydney I like to turn the 
heater on during the first week of June. I usu- 
ally set the thermostat to 15°C. By the end of 
June turn the knob around to 18°C. I turn the 
humidistat to come in at around 70% R.H. 
Remember, the heater dries the plants out. 
I seem to be watering every five to seven 
days at the moment. During June — July they 
will be fertilised weekly with GROWTH 
BLOOD & BONE at 3ml per litre of water. 
Make sure plants get plenty of light. Remove 
all shading. Good air circulation during winter 
is very important. 
Watch for little grubs on the spikes and 
under the leaves. Spray with DIPEL® but only 
in the evenings after the sun has gone down. 
Most growers mix ECO OIL® with their 
DIPEL® 
BUT BE CAREFUL OF OPEN FLOWERS 
AND BUDS! | 
Vandaceous 
Watering:— Cut back on watering during 
cooler months. Depending on local conditions, 
a good watering every three days should be suf- 
ficient. Water only in mornings. Avoid water- 
ing at all on cold or bleak days. 
Light:— Strap leaf vandas and ascocendas 
require 50% shade. If you wish to move narrow 
leafed vandaceous plants (i.e. terete and semi- 
terete vandas, Mokaras, Arandas, etc.) from a 
shade house to full sunlight, then now is a good 
time to move them. 
Fertiliser:— Reduce fertilising to once per 
fortnight alternating between — 
(1) Inorganic low nitrogen — Campbells A, 
Flowfeed HP8, Aqua K or Phostrogen. 
(2) Wuxall, Nitrosol or Fish Emulsion. 
Pest Control:— Spray with a fungicide every 
six weeks e.g. Daconil, Ridomil MZ WP, 
Mancozeb or Wettable Sulphur. 
If insects or scale are a problem spray with 
Diazanon, Malathion or Pyrethrum. 
Watch for mite damage (i.e. Red Spider, 
false spider, etc.) and treat with a miticide such 
as Kelthan or Tedion. | 
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The Australian Orchid Review, June/July 2009 
