1801.] 
garden in the Englith ftyle, which he with- 
ed us to fee. We found it perfeétly neat, 
but that it had more the appearance of a 
Datch or a Flemifh garden than of an 
Englith one. Thofe who have travelled 
in Holland and Flanders wiil know to 
what I allude, which I cannot illuftrate 
better than by ufing the words of the 
poet: 
*< Grove. nods at grove, each alley has its 
brother 5 
And half the platform juft refle&ts the other,” 
The Danifh gardens have generally a 
kind of wild fertility, and not that unna- 
tural regularity and famenefs which our 
landlord erroneoufly fuppofed to be the 
charasteriltic of an Englifh garden*. 
Early in the morning of the 26th of 
April, we left Aaresiind for Haderfleben, 
diftant about nine miles. On each fide of 
this road, the fields are divided by fine 
luxuriant hedges of black-thorn, which 
are alfo the boundaries of the road. Thefe 
had to us a new and pleafing appearance, 
as we had been accuftomed for fome time 
palt to fee clay or large ftones ufed for 
thefe purpofes, except in fome parts of 
Fiinen, where there are Jow-kept hedges, 
The morning was fo fine, that we got out 
of our vehicle, and walked the greater 
part of this poft. We had occafion to 
remark, that the vegetation was much for- 
warder here than in England, though the 
latitude of the place-is 55° north. In 
thefe countries, there is fcarcely any 
{pring or autumn; the tranfition from cold 
to heat is quick; there will fometimes be 
a hard fro, and a few days afterwards 
every thing will burft forth into vegetation, 
as if from the bofom of the fnow. In 
the country which we were now travelling 
throuch, the grafs was cut, and on the 
ground, — 
We arrived at Haderfleben in excellent 
fpirits, prepared to enjoy a good breakfat, 
in the Danifh meaning of the word. It is 
the cuftom in thefe countries to take 4 
cup of coffee at feven o’clock, and at nine or 
ten breakfaft is ferved, which confits of 
cold favoury meat, dried fifh, eggs, 
bread, butter, and cheefe, with Danifh 
ftrong-beer, and French brandy, which of 
* The beft garden I faw in Denmark was 
at the country-houfe of Mr. de Coninck (a 
merchant of great refpectability), about fif- 
teen miles from Copenhagen. ‘I'he houfe and 
grounds lie upon one of the fine lakes with 
which Zealand abounds; the gardens are laid 
out with great tafte, which does credit to the 
hofpitable owner of the manfion, who Isa 
Dutchman, 
Sketch of a Fourney from Copenhagen to Hamburg. 
, 109 
courfe cannot be difpenfed with. Hader- 
fleben is a {mall pleafant town, lying at the 
bottom of a hill. The molt con!picuous 
object in it is a high pillar, with the figure 
of a man, with a large rod in his hand, on 
the top; this is the whipping-pott, and 
from the fituation in which itis placed, ic 
would feem as if the rod was held in ter» 
rvorem over the heads of travellers, who 
cannot avoid being ftruck with this object 
immediately on entering the town, While 
we were at breakfaft, we heard plalm- 
finging in the ftreet, which we found pro- 
ceeded froth a prieft in canonicals, walking 
before four boys (paupers); the people 
informed us, that this was the cufttom 
morning and evening. The polt-mafter 
here obliged us to take four horfes, think. 
ing, or pretending to think, that two were 
not fufficient to draw us and our baggage, 
though one ftronz Englifh or German 
horfe wou!d actually have run away with 
the waggon (which is very light) and its 
contents: however, as thele gentlemen are 
abfolute in their way, we were obliged to 
fubmit to the impofition for the remainder 
of our journey. 
From Haderfleben to Apenrade is 
twenty miles ; the country is rather flat 
the greater part of this poft, but on ap- 
proaching the latter town, it has a more 
bold and mountainous appearance than 
any we had yet feen. | 
Apenvade is fituated on a fmall bay, 
called Apenrade-fidrd; the houfes are 
built of a light-celoured brick, which has a 
fingular neat appearance, and the ftreets 
are kept very clean. Ships of 300 tons 
come up to this port from the Baltic, as 
it carries on a confiderable trade with the 
iflands inthat fea. Its exports are chiefly 
corn, timber, and naval ftores. It is a 
pleafant mercantile town; and the hilarity 
which we obferved in the countenances of 
the inhabitants, befpoke that kind of 
contentment which is generally produced 
by honeft induftry. Apenrade reminded 
me of an Engtifh fea port town, but the 
comparifon was greatly in its favour; 
for the people here are neater and cleaner, 
and have more the appearance of honetty 
and fobriety than is to be feen in the fame 
kind of towns in England, where dirt and 
f{qualid wretchednefs appear in every ccr- 
ner, and where the lower clafs of people 
are certainly as debauched as they are in 
any part of the world*, Qn leaving 
Apensade, we have a view of the fea, and 
a {mall promontory, covered with a fine 
* Tallude to Plymouth, Plymouth-dock, 
Portfmouth, and latterly Yarmouth, &c, 
wood, 
