205 
which about the middle of the thirteenth 
century obrained the privileges of a town. 
Te has fince been ieveral times deftroyed, 
but is now a fmall, agreeable, and well- 
bujlt town, partly fituated on the river 
Stser, which runs into the Elbe, and has 
been erroneoufly mentioned, by fome tra- 
vellers, as acanal cut fromthat river. It 
is diftant from Hamburg forty feven miles. 
The church, which isin the market-place, 
is very fmall, but the fteeple is high, and 
of a particularly light architecture; it 
flands on four {mall iron-pillars, which 
at a diflance are hardly perceivedle. 
From Itzehoe to Gluickitadt is twelve 
miles: part of the road is acrofs a large 
heath covered with fand, between- which 
and Krempt, is the village of Steinburez, 
conhfling of about fixty large farm houfes, 
the economy of which was the fame as of 
that before defcribed. The upper part of 
the gab le-ends of the farm-houfes in this - 
part of Germany, like many of the houfes 
in the Weit Indies, confiderably overhang 
the lower part. Some of thefe farmers are 
rich; in one houfe which we vifited, the 
rooms were not only neatly but elegantly 
furnifthed : I was told that the proprietor 
was worth 40,000 fpecie-dollars, the w pale: 
of which he had accumulated by farm- 
ing. On a rifing ground, about a mile 
from this siiviag is a monument, in the 
form of an Pmt which has a fubterra- 
neous paflace leading to the palace of 
Count Rantzau, a mile di iftant, in the coun- 
ty of thatname. Half-way between Iize- 
hoe and Gluckftadt, is the fmall town cf 
Krempe now only remarkable for the height 
of iis fieeple, which ferves as a mark for 
feamen. It was formerly fituated on the 
banks of the Elbe, and fo ftrongly fortrfed 
that it fuftained a fiege of above twelve 
months, during the civil wars of Germany; 
its fortifications are now no more. The 
road from this town ts the fame as in 
. France (a chauffée on each fide of a pave, 
yifing in the middle), the country about 
here. being low and marthy ; it is in fome 
paris highly cultivated, and f{cattered ail 
over wiih farms of different fizes, which 
give pleafing ideas to the reflecting travel- 
rls Sehiea he learns that it is only 150 
years fince this pait of the country was a 
complete fwamp, of no poflible ule to ei- 
ther man or beaft. 
Glickftadt, which we entered over a 
fine, broad draw-bridge, is fortified, but 
the fortifications are in want of repair. 
This is the Danith capital of Holftein; it 
conrains a court of judicature and a court 
of chancery for that province. Itmay be 
faid that Gitick&adt is a {mall, weil butt 
Sketch of a Fourney from Copenhagen to Hambure. 
[ O&ober I, 
town ; feveral canals run through it, the 
princ:pal one croffes the top of the mar- 
ket-place, and is here corineéted with ano- 
ther, which divides the town into two 
nearly equal parts. The harbour is broad, 
and has water fufficient to admit large vef- 
fels ; it is detended by a caftle on the Elbe 
—if that may be called a'defence, which 
would require fome other fortifications to 
detend itlelf: indeed, in the opinion of 
thofe who ‘have feen the fortifications in 
France and the Netherlands, fuch as 
thofe of Lifle and of Valenciennes, of 
Maefiricht and ct Breda,the defences of this 
countrywillalmeit dwindle into infignificant 
- entrenchments; neverthelefs, they are not 
to be delpifed, as in theje things the name 
goes a great way. ‘This town has not fo 
much commerce as it formerly had, though 
it enjoys the fame privileges as the Hans 
Towns; befides which, all religions are 
tolerated here, which is not the cafe im the’ 
The people of Gluckfiadt 
latter places. 
appear unpleafant to ftrangers, but, I am_ 
told, that they are very fociable amongit 
themfelves: they imitate the -Germans 
rather than the Danes, and their manners 
are, in confequence, a mixture of both. In 
their inattention to foreigners, they re- 
minded me of my own countrymen, whofe 
want of feeling and regard for men of 
other countries are proverbial on all Parts 
of the Continent. 
We remained feveral days at Gliick- 
ftadt ; and, as we had now arrived on the 
banks of the Elbe, I took a retrofpective 
view of my journey from Copenhagen 
hither. I had been in Norway and Swe- 
cen, and found on this journey, that the 
bold and fublime {cenery, with which thofe 
countries abound, was but ill-exchanged 
for the views in Denmark and its conti- 
nental dominions ; ftill in the latter places 
the pi€turefque fometimes occurred, but of 
romantic profpects we had none, unlefs 
thofe about Apenrade and Flenfburg 
right be called fuch. In many parts of 
Sle{wick and Holftein (as before mention- 
ed) nothing was to be feen but large traéts 
of fand, with here and there a few brown - 
furze-bufies, with hardly a {pot of ver- 
dure to cheer the weary eye of the travel- 
ler: fome parts of Holftein particularly 
reminded me of Salifbury-plain in Eng- 
land. Through the whole extent of this 
route, there is little to gratity the philofo- 
pher, the man of tafie, or the man who 
travels for the purpofes of information. 
Indeed the attainment of ufeful knowledge 
on this journey was placed farther from 
our reach, by not having the advantage 
that is fourid on other parts of the con- 
tinent s 
7 
| 
] 
: 
] 
