_furmounted 
1802.} 
the banks of the Virnwy, the fir moun- 
tain fiream we bad obkrved, which ruthes 
along its bed in a pure glafly current, 
bordered with large ftones, rounded by 
their fall from the mountains and the con- 
fant rubbing of the waters. Its banks 
are ficep and adorned with hanging woods, 
where the pendant birch droops its light 
elegam foliage. The village of Lianvair 
ftands prettily fituated on one bank of the 
f&iceam ; and on the other rifles, at fome 
_diftance, the fleep lofty mountain of 
Moel-ben-Tyrch, Anglce ** Barehead.” 
After paffing over much jolting and un- 
even road, we arrived fafely at Can Office, 
a lone houlc, fifteen miles rom Pool, where 
our ac ions were not com- 
fortable. At Pool we heard the naticaal 
inftrament for the fick time, and greatly 
wondered that fo large and complex 2a 
one as the harp fhowid have been invented 
by & people ina fiate of barbarifm. We 
found the mufic of all the zucient tenes 
be of 2 martial or lively cof, with little 
of the plaintive or tender. 
fcenes around us, to Mallwyd, eleven 
miles. The country is rude and moun- 
tainous, bot imterfetted with little fertile 
with wild flowers and lichens, and 
by cloud-capped mountains, 
we vilst on foot from Miliwyd. Hence 
we proceed through 2 country more 
grotciquely wild than the fancy can pic- 
ture or the pea defcribe. The road is 
continually crofied by torrents, tumbling 
in limes of Silver from the heights, rufhing 
gullies, and filtering through 
re 
"  gocks a thoufand forms and lines. 
gee era a 
Sometimes the hills, half veiled in ragged 
_clouds, feemed to clofe in and fhut us in 
an abyfs whence there wzs no efcape; 
then agzin the view would open and 
fhow us mountains rifiag behind moun- 
tains, fome greei with tarf and f{peckled 
with aGtive mountain fheep, mixed with 
fmall black cattle; others grey or yel- 
low:th, with their bare rocks; cthers 2¢ain 
woody, and enlivened with a decp glen and 
foaming torrent; and the whole diverSfed 
by gicams of fun-thine breaking through 
the dark clouds. Ali tillage ceaics, naked 
crags flart through the katy herbage; 
cottages cf the mot rude and milerable 
. appearance, but of unhewn floor, with 
4 Furnadl of aWefo Tour. 
wicker chimnies and ragged thatch, are 
difcovered here and these in deep gicas 
bordering the water-falL Black tusf- 
fiacks rife, and fledges take place of 
wheeled carriages. At a diftance of five 
miles, Cader Idsis Iifts his three dask 
heads above the clouds,and proudly towess, 
tse monarch of the awful fcene. Aftera 
dreadfuliy rowgh flage of twclve mil<s, 
over roads which wouid have been terrific 
to2mind not totally abicrbed in won- 
der and delight, we arrived at the very 
comfortable ina of the very wretched town 
of Dolgelia. In the evening a violent 
aim came on, and a dufky torrent begaa 
to ruth down the chimney. . The fervast 
made fome attempts 2t flopping the fcod 
with a mop; but, finding them quite is- 
eficcivzl, the brought a lege fifa-kettle, 
which, to the furprize and dywezSon of ail 
the Engiih travellers, the placed im the 
chimney on 2 kedge that appeared to have 
been made on purpole. Our good land- 
lady told us the near day, that her bulband 
was very angry with her for fefferieg the 
kettle to be broughs in, fearing the gee- 
tiemen might “ put it ia the book,” 
They have a great notion of tourifis in 
thefe parts, and make a pomt of being 
very civiltothem. The rain that nish 
was fo heavy that the fireams cresflowed 
their banks and carried off all. cur ,land- 
lora’s hay ; be comforted hanfelf however, 
Saying 1 was well his cattle were mot 
walhed awzy likewitc. 
2iff and z2zd. We remaiced fill at 
Dolg-liu waiting for a fine daz to 2fcend 
Cacer Liris, and aapleying ourtclves in 
viftting the neichhourheed of the town. 
Doigeilu is ftuated im a woody wale, 
through which flows the Moddac, here a 
confidesasic itream, rapid, end, ike all 
Weith rivers, perfectly clear, The 
bridge and woody banks of the valley af- 
ford many fine views, bat all in tae Game 
Syle 2s thote we bad lately pafied through. 
234. We this day ty cur &ili 2s 
horic-women by ridimz our Weih poniez © 
down fome ficep delcents owerlpread with 
Jock fones, and through a tcngled wocd, 
to the Drink of 2 foaming torrent, d2fung 
impetucuily from the mountain's 5r0«. 
In our way we faw feveral piles of cak- 
bark prepared for the tanner, and a {mail 
copper-mine, no loager workei. 
24th, At length the heavcas fmile 2c- 
fpicioully, and we begin cur acexnt to tke 
mountain, whet fumait is abou: feyen 
miles from cor imm. The accliity is 
graceal and ealy for three oc four miles, 
atter which it becomes wcry flecp, aad, to 
am unpratined eye, tormidable, from the 
loos flones with which the road is co 
a Toul, 
