504 
6th.—-Procéed towards Conway, twelve 
miles along the rich level fhores of the 
Menai; drive through. the neat little city 
of Bangor, whofe cathedral is almoft as 
large as an Englifh parifh-church, while 
the parifh-churches of Wales only afpire 
to the appearance and dimenfions of an 
Englifh ftable. Pafs feveral gentlemen’s 
houfes embofomed in fine woods. At 
feneth, the country affumes a wilder air ; 
and a terrace-road, fupported by walls, 
conduéts us round the fides of Penmaen 
Mawr, a huge, bare, overhanging rock, 
rifing almoft perpendicularly from the fea, 
and formerly the terror of travellers, from 
the numerous fatal accidents caufed by the 
crags giving way under the feet. At pre- 
fent itis probably infecure at the breaking 
up of a troft, from the large fragments. of 
rock which, at that time, roll down acrofs 
the road, fometimes breaking through the 
wall which bounds it towards the fea; 
but at this feafon, unfortunately, no tra- 
veller can fignalize his courage, by at- 
tempting this once formidable pafs: 
Arriving at the old negle&ted town of 
Conway, we haften to vifit its venerable 
Caftle, an extenfive building, confilting of 
eight large round towers and outworks, 
with three lofty watch towers: it has lefs 
the appearance of military ftrength, than 
that of Carnarvon, though the walls are 
equally thick ; but it is yet farther de- 
cayed, and ill more beautiful and pic- 
turefque as a ruin. Its fituation is pe- 
culiarly fine, feated on a rock command- 
ing the river, and conne&ted with the 
town walls which are fil entire, and 
firengthened by handfome towers in the 
fame ftyle as thofe of the Caftle. No 
practicable ftair-cafe remains to any tower 
of the caftle; and a very large breach ap- 
pears in the lower part cf one, the upper 
part of which fupports itfelf by its owo 
firength in a moit fingular manner. Some 
fine arches ftill fubfift, which formerly 
fupported the vaulted roof of the great 
hall. A fmail chapel of rich architecture 
is.in good prefervation, and fome fret- 
work ftill remains over the windows, 
which are much larger than thofe of Car- 
narvon. Returning from this noble ruin, 
we accidentally difcover an old palace 
built by the famous Earl of Leicefter. It 
is ftill inhabited by poor people, and fome 
curious fpecimens of the furniture re- 
main. ‘The queen’s arms are caived in 
feveral parts, and thofe of the familics who 
have been its fucceffive poffeffors are cut 
over a chimney-piece,. now covered with 
white-wafh, he building inclofes an 
Fournal of a recent Welfp Toure 
[Nev. I, 
extenfive court, and feveral turrets of con- 
fiderable heigit rife from various parts. 
7th.—Crofling, at the ferry, the river’ 
Conway, here one of the fineft ftreams in 
Wales, whofe banks alternately wave 
with wood and corn, and give fertility to 
meadows of a luxuriant green, fpeckled 
with fine cattle, we ride along the fands 
to Ormes Head, a huge projecting lime- 
ftone rock, of a bold and ftriking figure, 
the haunt of various fpecies of birds, and 
one of the fineft Belwideres in the world. 
Scaling, with fome difficulty, its fteep, 
{mooth afcent, we gain the windy fummit, 
and gaze, with mingled wonder and de- 
light, at the wide varied fcene that burits 
upon us. Weftward the jutting point of 
Prieftholme Ifland appears, forming with 
the {pot we occupy the horns of the wide 
bay of Beaumaris. Over it to the north- 
welt, is faintly feen the high land in the 
neighbourhood of Amlwch: a line of flat 
coaft runs on in a fouth-wefterly direc- 
tion to the entrance of the Menai, which 
appears a line of filver: eaftward from 
Bangor, a level cultivated fhore extends 
for fome miles, till Penmaen Mawr op- 
pofes a fteep rocky barrier to the waves. 
Penmaen Bach fucceeds, guarding the ef- 
tuary of the Conway, whofe rich banks 
are crowned by its town and noble caftle 
rifing from its rock, and backed by ftately 
woods. A fine bend of the river ciofes 
the view on this fide; and the eye, return- 
ing along its eaftern bank, views woods, 
and gently floping meadows, with the old 
ruined manfion of Gloddaeth lifting its 
nodding head in melancholy pride. A 
narrow flip of corn and meadow land, 
fcarcely raifed above the water, fucceeds, 
and conneéts the promontory with the 
main land. Northwards extends a vaft 
expanie of ocean, tinged with a thoufand 
hues, imparted by the fweeping clouds, 
the partial fun-beams, the fcattered fand- 
banks, and the white breakers dafhing 
ever them with fullen murmurs. Cor- 
morants and gulls fly fcreaming over the 
waters, and break the air with fluttering 
wings. Skirting the mountain, we reluc- 
tantly defcend its eaftern fide, and view it 
forming, with the littl Ormes Head, a 
femi-circular bay of exquifite beauty. 
The pafs between the two Orems Heads 
was defended by a caftellated houfe of 
great antiquity, now in ruins, and fur- 
rounded by peaceful cottages, whofe inha- 
bitants are bufied in their hay-harveft, 
while their corn waves round them almoft 
ripe for the fickle. Croffing the ifth- 
mus with the fea, in view on either hand, 
