130 
cern, can hardly be juftified by the reafon 
alleged—that it prevents fpecie from go- 
ing out of the country. On returning to 
ovr inn, we found there a pleafant well- 
informed old gentleman from the interior 
o} the country, who had fo much the ap- 
pearance and manners of a refpcctable 
Englih yeoman, that we felt very well 
difpo! fed to enter into converfation with 
him before he addreffed us in our own lan- 
guage, and. told us he had paffes feveral 
months in England, He was very agree- 
ably communicative,and we !pent the even- 
ing very pleatantly together. We found 
our fare very good and charges real mnable, 
but never fince I Jeft England did I fo han- 
ker after \an Englith: fire-lide.~ Our 
clothes had been repeatedly wet during 
the day, and it was'adamp cold evening ; 
our trunk was gone per polt to Lubec, 
and we nad no means either of changing 
or drying, except we had attempted the 
latter by hanging our clothes up the chim- 
ney amidft the foot and fmoke. At an ear- 
Jy hour we retired to ref, but were fo 
co'd, that we found fleeping between two 
feather- beds no fuch very: great inconve- 
nience. 
In the morning, after an excellent break - 
faft of coffee, to which we had cream for 
the firft time I-had {een any fince [ lett 
Holland, we!preceeded on our journey, 
and pafling through a fhabby old brick 
ate, and over a bridge which beftrides a 
branch of ghe Trava, the road led us by 
the fide of the town till we came to the 
place where the two ftreams flow toge- 
ther, to which it is navigable for fmall 
flat-bottomed craft. 
mercial ntercourfe it appears here a very 
jaltry Rream, and the great wharf, 
banked with ftone, and its enormeus jae 
reminded us of the great bridge at Bien- 
theim, or fome of the Duke of Richmond’s 
ortifications. Our road, which ded us 
frequently for a confiderable diftance wit)- 
indight of the river, cid not give us an cp- 
portunity of feeing a fing le boa t; but we 
were richly repaid by fome bf se most 
_ charming feenery I have feen on the conti- 
nent. The Tr ava, foe tine ald through 
a fmall but beautiful valley, whofe floping 
fides are ornamented with villages, fome 
embofomed in trees, and others feated 
nearer the river-fide, and fome again more 
romantically fituated on the tummits, 
makes a very circuitous courfe to Lubec, 
where it receives the Wakenitz and the 
Steignitz, and becomes navigable for fhip- 
ping ; from thence, by an equally tortu- 
eus -caurfe, it rurs to Travemunde, re- 
eciving i Its way the Schwartan, witich 
Pedzftrian Fourney from Hamburg to Lubec. 
As ameans of com-. 
(Sept, 1, 
joins it not far from Lubec. It is not, 
however, then capable of bearing any but 
fmall thips, unlefs part of their jading be 
difcharged-below Travemunde-bar,. over 
which we were told there is at mof nine 
feet water. From Olderfloh this river 
runs through feme of the fineft land in the 
North of Europe, till within a few miles of 
its mouth, when the country becomes lefs 
and lefs fertile, and near ‘Fravemunde is 
almoft a barren'fand. Here, however, a 
watering-place is eftablifhed, in oppofition 
to Duberon on the Mecklenburg coaft; 
and laft fammer the inhabitants of Lubec, 
Hamburg, and Altona, witha few fami- 
lies and individua!s from more diftant 
quarters, forme afociety, in which much 
of the national character feemed to be latd 
afide, and they conforted tegether almot 
as unceremonioufly as the bathers at Mar- 
gate and Brighton. The bathing-place 
exactly refembles that in Weymouth-bay, 
but the machines are clumly contrivances, 
and the company muft go out tothem in a 
boat, into which ladies muft be carried 
and gentlemen icramble at the hazard Be 
wet fect. 
But to return to our tour.—After con- 
templating with much pleafure the exte- 
rior of the villages, and the well-cultivated 
Jani that furrounded them, as the gentle 
fwells of the country. prefchtad them. fuc- 
ceffively to our view, we took fhelter from 
a fhower in a lroufe by the road-fide.— 
Wien I entered alone at firft, the woman 
afked me if I wanted a fzaps, to which I 
anfwered in the afArmative, when flie gave 
me to underftand’ that I was very welcome 
to take thelter whether I had a fraps or 
not. As’ we were talking, her hufband 
came in, and conducted us into a fort of 
puleur, 
trom the others, was befide the great door. 
The floor was nicely fanded, the furniture 
clean, and the © appearance of our heft and 
hotte(s indicated an induftrious couple in 
eafy circumttances. The man, ‘firft apo- 
Isgizing for his curtohity, defired’ to know 
*. 
- 
which in this houfe, differently 
where we came frem, and finding that we- 
were walking from Hamburg to Lubec by 
a circuitous route, which our appearance 
indicated that we did not do from necef- 
ity, xt was eafy for a novice in phyfio- 
gnomy to diftinguifh in his countenance a 
fort of perplexity, arifing from a vain at- 
tempt to difcover the cui bozo. His wife 
read his difficulty, and ~refolved it, by 
oblerving that poffioly we micht. fiid a 
pleafure in feeing ’ the cultivation of the 
country. 
apparently re becaufe I found many 
people, infinitely ; this woman’ s fuperiors in 
Pie 
1 mention this incident, though - 
s 
