1904.] 
firt, we find in_ their phyfiognomy, 
fomething which pleafes’ or difpleales us. 
If after that we feel a feries of impref- 
fions analogous to the former, our hu- 
mour intermixes itfelf’ with them, and 
we approve or difapprove of the whole. 
This is, perhaps, (adds this candid 
writer,) what occurred to me; on my en- 
trance into Jutlaud; but, perhaps, there 
is likewife this difference between that 
province and Slefwick, that we often ob- 
ferve betweentwo countries, where a fimple 
rivulet forms a feparation, not to {peak of 
thofe which have a confiderab'e interval 
between them, fuch, for inftance, as an 
arm of the fea. The afpect of Colding 
difpleafed me; the inns difpleafed me; 
noihing found favour in my eyes; I was 
no longer in Slefwick ; I was no longer 
in Germany ; I found mytelf in the centre 
of Denmark. “ Conftrained by our im- 
partiality ; (fays Profeflor Olivarius,) we 
are obliged toconfefs, that the difference 
obfervable in coming near Denmark, and, 
all at once, at the firft view of Colding, 
is fingvlarly ftriking. We have travelled 
much ourfelves; we have feveral times 
entered Denmark by that route; we 
have converfed with a number of travellers, 
Danifh and foreici, all of whom agree 
as to the encrmous difference which pre- 
vails almoft at the very. inftant that you 
quit the frontiers; every one 1s firuck 
with the coutraft of Chititiansfeid, of Ha. 
derflsben; the contraft of the mduftry, 
the activity, the fathions, the-manaersy 
the air, and the charagéter of the inhabi- 
tants; and laftly, every thing, with all 
_the objeéts perceived in Jutland. It is, 
doubtlefs, a reflection rather mortifying 
to make on the adminiftiation of. the 
country, but it is no lefs true; equity, 
however, requires, at the fame tite, our 
obferving, that, as the mountains and 
forefts commence here, it is here, like- 
wife, that the climate characterizes the 
contrat by a fingulaf concatenation of 
circumftances, and a dimunition of ferti- 
lity in the foil.” 
M. Kuttier complains bitterly of the 
vifitation which the commiffaries of the 
cuftoms made of his effects; but this, 
the Profeffsr obferves, ought not to have 
difconcerted him ; fer,-can this, fays he, 
bear a cowiparifon with the rigours, not 
to fay, vexations, experienced in England 
and in Auftria? | 
In going from hence to Sxoghoi, to 
crofs.the Little Belt, we pafs very near 
Frederica, a tortreis and town, endowed 
with fingular privileges. From Snoghoi, 
eur voyager crofied the Belt, with the 
A Tour in Denmark. 
‘inns of Franktort. 
247 
help of a favourable wind in about feven- 
teen minutes, and landed at Muddlefart, 
a very fmall town of Fionia, with nothing 
in it remarkable; we find here neither 
neatnefs nor architectural centtruion, 
nor the exteriors of the houfts of Slef 
wick ; no more Convenience, no more 
elegance. It is not, fays the Profefior, 
without a particular fatisfaion, that we 
find an obfervation of our traveller, that, 
next to England, he knows of no country 
wherein travelling is more agéeeabie tham 
in Slefwick : certainly, if he had teen the. 
other two parts, infinitely more fertile 
and richer than the middle, which he 
traverfed, how much higher would he 
have rifen in bis elogiums! He odferved, 
however, an air of eafy circumiancesy 
and faw not a fingle individual in wooden, 
fhoes, as he perceived but very few coun- 
try-feats; he found abundance of mant- 
factures, many work-fhops, a very few 
brilliant liveries. The roads are good, 
or, at Jeaft, tolerably good, and traveling 
is pretty expeditious. An exccllent regu. 
lation is in force here, that of givirg a 
billes to the ‘poftillions, whereon i 
marked the hour of departure, and which 
the travcller figns at every poll; which 
enables him to make his complaints, 
without laying a formal accufation. 
Thele billets are infpected by the poit. 
mafters, who are obliged to pay attention 
‘to them; and, in orderthat foreign tra 
vellers may know the contents, they are 
delired to fign them in French, while the 
posillions aré, on their part, obliged to 
prefent them: the ufual travelling-rate is 
one mile per hcur——tiat is the rule. 
Here follows a remarkable obferva- 
ticn of the author, and which is not 
dettitute of foundation. From Eutin,’ 
to the frontiers of Jutland, (he o'-‘erves,) 
*¢ J found no inn, which was not better 
than all thofe that I met with in the 
ereat number that lie between Berlin, 
Dreiden, Prague, Leipzig, Gotha, Mag- 
deburg and. Biunfwick. But the houlg 
of Mr. Hafs at Slefwick, and the pofi- 
houfe at sippenrade, refemble the vett . 
hotels that I have feen, al:hough they are 
neither fo vait nor fo briliant as the Zotel 
of Folaxd at Drefden, or the celebrated 
The apartments are 
not fo large, or fo elegant; but, on the 
other hand, thereis every thing that can 
be withed for, in refpceét of agreeable-— 
ncfs, nezinefs and convenience, as like- 
wife good chear. The apar.ment where 
we dised at Apenrade was hung with 
handiome paper, and decorated with two 
commodes of a beautiful acajou, and. alfo 
with 
