£807.] 
between the tars and Chinese on these 
occasions; the former being generally: 
half drunk while on shore, asd the lat- 
ter being a‘very good-natured race of 
beings; the consequent relaxation which 
the sailors feel gives play to all that sea- 
wit, and dry hamour which characterise 
the British seamen, especially when in a 
foreign country. 
In the streets of Canton a cart or wag- 
gon is never seen, and even a horse-very 
rarely; one sometimes sees crossing the 
middie of a street, a flight of twelve or 
fourteen steps ascending, on the top of 
which is a plane of three, four, or five 
yards in extent; then the same number 
et descending steps: these are the arches 
ef canals, that run up under the streets 
from the river to the interior part of the 
eity, on which are passing and repassing 
boats with merchandize, while those who 
are walking over them know nothing of 
the matter. 
Bales, and other packages of whatever 
size, ave carried on the shoulders of Chi- 
nese by means of bamboos, some of which 
(if the package be large) are made fast 
to it, whilst other long pieces of bam- 
boo pass under these again in various 
directions, until they get a sufficient pur- 
chase, when they shoulder their burden 
and trot off with it like a swarm of ants 
carrying away a cock-roackh. ITndividuals 
make theif bundles fast to the extremities 
of a bamboo, the middle of which rests 
across their shoulders, and thus they 
move along at a good round pace, at every 
step crying out in.an andible voice, “ Li! 
Li!” or Clear the way! whichis a species 
of music one is continually regaled with 
ia the streets of Canton. 
The elasticity of the bamboo renders 
it much easier for a Chinese to carry a 
heavy burden on his shoulders, than the 
knots which the English porters use, could 
possibly do; and besides they can go at 
a much quicker rate. 
One sometimes meets with an inferior 
mandarin riding through the streets, but 
it is very seldom that any Vehicle bat the 
palankeen is to be seen. 
It is wellknown how passionately fond 
the Chinese are of dramatic representa- 
tions ; so much so, that a kind of annual 
tax is laid on the inhabitants of each prin- 
cipal street, and a house being pitched 
upon, a theatre is erected in front, one 
story high, decorated with the images of 
monstrous animals, such as flying dragons 
(a very favourite figure among the Chi- 
_ hese), centaurs, aud fierce-looking war- 
mors, each haviig six or eight arms. 
° 
Journal of a Voyage in the Indian Seas. 123 
Here the disciples of Roscius perform 
from morning till night, to the infinite 
gratification of the spectators, who are 
sometimes in cfowds of three or four hun- 
dred, rendering the passage through the 
street extremely dithcult. Though we 
often stood for hours observing them 
most minutely, we very seldom could 
make out either the story or plot, In- 
deed the Chinese taste for theatricals 
will not do them much credit: for howe- 
ver they may be polished otherwise, yet 
in this respect they smack very much of 
the rude and barbarous. Fantastic and 
strained gesticulations, turgid exclama- 
tions, forced and unnatural action, with 
gaudy and tinsel trappings, seem to be 
the principal objects of admiration on 
the Chinese stage ! 
As for their music ; (Apollo forgive me 
for disgracing the name!) it is so execra- 
ble, that I think the cries of jackals, the 
howling of wolves, the braying of asses, 
and caterwauling of cats (could they be 
united into one concert), would form 3. 
divine symphony, when compared with 
the Chinese discord! : 
This, however, is only to be under 
stood of the plays publicly exhibited 
in the streets, for it is very diferent when 
these are acted in the private houses of 
gentlemen; where the music can be 
heard without pam, and the other parts 
of the drama aiford infinite amusement to 
the European. 
The dramatis person are ali males, or 
males and emasculates: of this last cir- 
cumstance, however, we could only judge 
by the voice, which, in many of thera, 
had a good deal of the eunuch tenor. 
Whatever they are, so excessively’ fond 
are they of acting, that itis very common 
to see them faint away, through the stre 
nuous exertions which they make to carry 
on the representation after their natural 
powers have been exhausted ! 
It is customary for the cohong or go- 
vernment security-merchants, to give 
frequent and very superb treats to the 
Europeans at Canton, especially the Eng- 
lish, during the winter season -when the 
snips are in China; at one of these I was 
once a guest, and so highly gratified, that 
T cannot help giving a sketch of it. 
One of the principal of these cohong * 
merchants sent an invitation to the typan, 
the super-cargoes, officers ofthe men of 
war and India ships; and indeed to mast 
of the European gentlemen of different 
nations then at Canton, to a dinner at_ 
his house at seven in the evening. A little 
before the appointed hour, a few palan- 
a > keens 
: 
