i a 
as 
ae ee 
ee 
eee ager rane a 
S44 
the fame defcription have immediately fol- 
lowed each ether, when the difirefs of the 
difappointed is truly ludicrous ; and fober 
travellers have their revenge. A never- 
failing trick of the Welfh landlords is 
that of tacking on a mile or two in a ftage 
more than thofe marked in the maps and 
guides, and demanding half a crown a mile 
for four horfes. 
We afcended one of the lower crags, 
and obferved all the mountain fides covered 
with heath in full bloom of the brighteft 
purple-colour, which, in combination with 
the verdure and the grey cliffs, gives a 
very rich tint, well imitated in water co- 
lour drawings. bi 
Having paid a reafonable bill, we fet 
off for Beddkelert, at an early hour. The 
inn, ruinous bridge, and general effect of 
the feenery are much admired and almoft 
invariably fele€ied by artifts. They keep 
there an albuy:, in which the poetical and 
the vain are folicited to write their fenti- 
ments, on their arrival. 
Mountains, in an endlefs fuccefficn, 
formed the only view till we came to the 
far-famed pa{s, called Pont Aberglajllyn. 
‘Thefe are fcenes beyond the powers of ver- 
bal defcription ; and the attempts which 
have been given to the public, fail con- 
temptibly. This opinion was particularly 
confirmed on reading the inflated accoun's 
of this. extraordinary place. The rocks 
are indeed ftupendoufly high, and of vaft 
maffes, while their deep copper colour and 
their near approximation on either fide, 
render the whole {cene grand and gloomy. 
But the falling river, a very material ac- 
companiment, was nearly loft to us, and 
the falmon-leap totally fo, for want of 
water. By making the Alpine soad more 
commodious, and widening the bridge, the 
height of which is not confiderable, the 
effeét which produces inftant {urprize is 
much diminifhed. Soon after, a view of 
Harlech Caftle opened very finely about 
fix miles diftant, rifted upon a promontory, 
jutting into the fea. . 
Deicending for fome miles, we arrived 
at Caernarvon, having feen the majettic 
towers of the caitle, for a confiderable 
time. We were at the Hote!, a commo- 
dious inn, lately built by Lord Uxbridge, 
from whence we commanded the {traits of 
Menai and the Ifleof Anglefea. We vifit- 
ed the caftle, before dinner, whichis highly 
deferving of admiration. The great gate- 
way, flanked by two towers, is much more 
grand and expenfive than any now remain- 
ing in England, as it rifes to the height of 
one hundred feet. It was the palace as 
well as the fortrefs, of Edward I, which 
Obfervations on Modern Tours'in Wales, &¢. {May fy 
is apparent from the remains of two bails 
or courts, the upper only of which was ap-~ 
plied to military purpofes. In the lower 
court is the Eagle tower, which had three 
polygonal rooms, in the bafe. It is finith- ,, 
ed by as many. very lofty turrets. On the 
left hand, is a more fpacious tower, poly- 
gonal without, but fquare within, having 
many windows of peculiar form, whicts 
contained the fiate apartments. Several 
curious chimnies ftill remain. It is tradi- 
tionally faid, that the Eagle tower was ap 
prepriated to Q. Elinor, and the other to 
the king ; and they were formerly con- 
need by an open gallery, ftill perfe&. 
The fite of the great hall is not to be dif- 
covered by any accurate veftige. The en- 
trance into the caltle was protected by ne 
lefs than three portcullifes, aod another 
gate opening to an arm of the fea, conld 
not be approached but by a ladder, which. 
was drawnup. ‘The battlements are very 
regular and many of them pierced with an 
eyelet hole. The caftle is built with a 
grey ftone like Windfor, and the whole of 
its architecture nearly refembles fuch parts 
of the great wall of Conftantinople, as have 
been built by the later Greek emperors, 
which Edward faw when he vifited the 
Holy Land. Several of the Gothic caftles 
in the Levant, as thofe at Smyrna and 
Pergamus, are of a fimilar conftruétion. 
The two views of this caftle, which have 
nearly an equal intereft, are from the hill 
above the hotel, and from another acrofs . 
the ferry. 
The hotel is reafonable in proportion to. 
the acommodations, and the public are | 
greatly obliged to Lord Uxbridge. 
We now left Caernarvon, for Bangor- 
ferry and Conway. The road is faid to 
refemble thofe nearSouthampton, and is 
excellent to travel, leading through a culti- 
vated and pleafant country. Bangor-ferry 
merits al) {ober praife. The abrupt craggs 
ef Penmaenmawr, rifing fuddenly above 
the valley, are.very ftriking ; no Alpine. 
road is more terrific, than this was, previ- 
oufly to the laté improvement of it, by ad- 
ding to the width, and fecuring the whole 
by a parapet. At prefent, the afcent is 
gradual, feveral hnndred yards above the 
fea, and for the greater part of the way, 
under impending maffes of rock, of valt 
fize. We were perpetually reminded of 
danger, by the huge fragments which are 
ftrewed about the bafe of Penmaenmawr. 
It is, io fa&t, rather a rock than a mountain 
with acute and ferrated heads. Sucha 
fcene, fecure from danger, fills the mind 
with a pleafing aftonifhment. Weregret+ 
7 
5 
a 
ted to lofe, by the clofing in of the evening, ~~ 
fome_ 
