1$10.] 
near approach to the Tagus. On the 
"top is a convent, whose white walls 
glittered in the sun; and a few miles in 
a valiey to the left, we piainly saw the 
town of Cintra, so lately made famous 
by the convention between the British 
and Freneh commanders, 
Although this is a winter month, we 
already felt the delightful soft breezes of 
this climate. The setting sun formed a 
charming object, where we saw its gol- 
den rays spreading over an horizon of un- 
bounded extent on the ‘vast Atlantic :” 
it was an evening picture which may in 
vain be sought for in England. 
We continued our course in-shore, 
and soon came off Cape St. Vincent, 
where the rocks seem to protect the land 
in a sort of defiance to the waves of the 
ocean. We stood in sufficiently close to 
see the inhabitants of the country walk- 
ing to the convent, it being on a Sun- 
day. This isa large irregular building, 
almost on the edge of a high range of 
rocks: and the end of it towards the sea 
exhibits a Jarge cross on tae walls. Near 
itis a fort, where the Spanish colors were 
hoisted to us: we, of course, returned the 
compliment. 
When we came near Ayamonte, some 
of our passengers went ashore, in conse- 
guence of the indisposition of a lady we 
had on board, and whose life might have 
been endangered had she remained lon- 
ger at sea. A Spanish boat came along- 
side us; and on informing the sailors of 
the object wished for, they expressed 
a dislike to receive the invalid, and feared 
that their governor would not permit 
them to land her under the apprehension 
that a contagious disorder might be in- 
troduced into the place. 
Ayamonte is a frontier-town of Spain, 
on the river Guadiana; opposite to it is 
a frontier-town of Portugal, , founded by 
the marquis de Pombal, during his pros- 
perity as minister of that country, in the 
year 1752, and called Villa Real. They 
have both a handsome appearance from 
the sea. 
Much opposition was made to the 
lady’s landing. After this was overcome 
a most serious obstacle occurred, for no 
person was inclined to receive her into a 
house ; and two hours passed before they 
could find @ shelter, which was at last 
in an auinbabited hovel. The object of 
her landjng was to procure medical as- 
- sistance, however bad, rather than to res 
main longer in the packet, which was 
unprovided with so requisite a part of its 
equipment, — 
Journal of a recent Voyage to Cadiz. 
39 
The intention of the other passengers 
was to mount their mules, and make an 
excursion hither; but their disappoints 
ment was great when they learned that 
to travel about seventy miles would cause 
them a tiresome ride of three days, if it 
were even possible for them to proceed 
at all, owing to the rains, and the conse- 
quent had state of the roads. They, 
thereforé, reluctantly relinquished their 
scheme, and had the mortifying fatigue 
of rocking two days and a night in an 
open dirty fishing-boat, to come here in 
time to look at the place for a few mi- 
nutes, and then make sail after the pac- 
ket, which is allowed to wait only twen- 
ty-four hours, and had just weighed an- 
chor to pursue her voyage. 
immediately on our anchoring, we 
were surrounded by boats with fruit, &c. 
The men wore the national cockade, 
(which I have already found requisite to 
adopt, in order to avoid insult;) and we 
soon landed at the quay, amid the noise, 
confusion, and curiosity, of hundreds of 
dirty boatmen, porters, &c. which was 
truly offensive. 
It_was necessary that our baggage 
should be examined, and for this purpose 
it was carried to an office ; the inspectors. 
appeared inclined to give the trouble of 
Opening every package: but a dollar ob- 
viated this ceremony. On coming how- 
ever tothe Barrier, another exhibition was 
to take place; and here, each trunk was 
opened and submitted to a search by the 
hand, before we were suffered to pros 
ceed, j . 
A porter then conducted me to the 
largest, and, as it is termed, the best inn 
in the place. I did not expect to meet 
with the comforts of an English inn, but 
was much surprised to observe the absence 
of almost every decent convenience. 
My lodging-room resembles the cell of a 
prison ; the floor is of brick, the window 
small, with iron bars, and no glass, but a 
wooden shutter closes it at nizht. A 
mattress of wool is Jain ona web, which is 
stretched by a wooden frame, and a chair 
serves for the wash-hand stand. I could 
not refrain remarking the nature of our 
accommodation to the landlord, whose 
reply was, §* Why, sir, this is the same 
hotel that my lord and lady H. re= 
sided in while they were at Cadiz.” 
The smell of tobacco-smoke, oil, and 
garlick, is predominant in almost every 
thing; the oil is such as is used in manu- 
factories in England, and the fish, poultry, 
and beef, partake of it, unless it is bailed, 
The coffee at breakfast is excellent, bur 
it 
