1810.7 
the practice is to introduce a large pan of 
charcoal, placed under, and sometimes 
on, a table. ‘The pit-coal whichis burnt 
is brought from England; but it seldom 
pays for importing: there has lately been 
some discovered in the neighbourhood of 
Seville, but not yet iu any considerable 
quantity. Sometimes an English or a 
‘Yurkey carpet covers the marble floor, 
or a mat made of cane, woven en cord 
in various patterns, some of which are 
manufactured here; but the best are 
brought from Africa. The rooms are 
lofty and large; in the front of almost 
every window is a balcony, orvailing ; 
but the furniture of a house, although 
elegant, and often splendid, is not so 
neat and tasteful as it is seen in. Eng- 
Jand, 
A stranger is generally greatly disap- 
pointed in the appearance of the city 
on passing the Barria, which leads di- 
rectly into the market-place, presenting 
ascene similar to Billingsgate and Clare- 
market. Hundreds of ragged dirty fel- 
lows are selling their fish, which are but 
little enticing; (the dory, is perhaps the 
best sort of fish thatis caught here; they 
are often two fect in lenygth:) coantry- 
men have their eggs and poultry im abun- 
dance. Fruit-seliers, with grapes, oranges, 
melons, raisins, almonds, pomegranates, 
garlick, &c. spread in large heaps on 
mats on the stones, are for ever bawling 
out the name of the article they seli 
with such confused noise, that makes one 
.glad to hasten from the scene. Others 
are frying of fish in oil, over charcoal; and 
the roasting of acorns and chesnuts, add 
not a littleto the offensive air: this is the 
scene every day in the week, not except- 
ing Sundays, or the night-time: the suv- 
ply of the above articies, with a variety 
of culinary vegetables, appearing never 
to be diminished. The fruit of the arbu- 
tus, or winter strawberry, is now in per- 
fection, and is freely eaten; of apples 
we have but few, and they are not of 
good flavor. Here are shops well sup- 
plied with parcridges, snipes, hares, rab- 
bits, turkeys, &c. in great plenty, as well 
as with wild ducks-and geese. Turkeys 
are just in perfection; they are coming 
in from the country in flocks, and the 
season will continue about a month; it is 
ealculated that 7,000 of these birds are 
brought here every winter from the pro- 
vince of Valencia: they fatten on the 
journey, and are about seven weeks co- 
ming down. Pigeons are also in plen- 
ty; they are fed in a singular manner; a 
aan holds the bird in his left hand, while 
o oa 
Journal of a recent Voyage te Cadiz. 
205 
he opens its mouth, and injects from his 
lips the grain, which is previously soaked 
in water. The market docs not supply 
butter; this articie is furnished from Ire- 
Jand; and its substitute in all cases, and 
in the summer, isoil.. “Phe cheese made 
here is froin goat milk, but so bad that it 
scarcely forms a substance; and the milk 
we use is the goat’s: they are led through 
the streets, and generally milked at the 
door of the purchaser. Bread is very 
good an’ cheap ; particular care is taken 
in making it white; for this purpose cnil- 
dren are employed to pick from the grain 
every particie of dirt that might give ita 
dark hue. 
Here are several coffee-houses, which 
‘are frequented indiscriminately by per- 
sons of all ranks; the beggars. are even 
permitted to intrude; and as segars are 
smoked by every Spaniard, these poor 
creatures seek on the tables, and on the 
floors, for-the refuse tobacco. The Spa- 
nish newspapers are, of course, to be 
seen at these places; and-on the arrival 
of the courier, it is usual for one person 
to read aloud their contents for the in- 
formation of the company. They seil 
all sorts of liquors, as well as coffee; a 
eup of which, with the saucer §lled to 
the brim, Costs about 23d. and is taken 
with or without milk, the waiter bringing 
both liquids to you in kettles, and pour- 
ing it boiling hot. ‘The tables are neces- 
sarily of marble, on account of their pla- 
cing on them a pan of charcoal-fire, for 
the purpose of lighting a segar; and the 
servants attend you, when wanted, by 
eae 
calling them with a hiss, and not by their 
name, aS in Engiand. 
The coffee-couses are also furnished 
with billiard-tables, several being in one 
house, as the Spaniards are remarkably 
fond of this game. 
Smoking of segars is so very common, 
that in the houses, and in the streets, from 
before breakfast until after supper, one 
is exposed tothe fumesof them. Those 
of the finer quality, from the Havannah, 
have been so scarce as to be worth six- 
pence each; and the sale of them, as 
well as of all manufactured tobacco, is 
the exclusive privilege of the king. 
The common people contrive a cheap 
sort, by cutting the leaf very fine, and 
nicely rolling it in paper, which answers 
the purpose of a pipe; and they are not 
very delicate in smoking them, as several 
men will take a whiff from the same se- 
gar, one after the other. Most persons 
are provided with a flint, a steel, and tin= 
der, which is a white fibrous vegetable, 
: ' procured | 
