212 Letters of a Wanderer through England and Wales. (Oetky © 
immense pile of greyish rocks rising” 
perpendicularly from the water’s edge, 
forming an appearance somewhat similar 
to the ancient walls of a fortification, 
tufted and fringed with various-coloured 
shrabs and trees, finely contrasting the 
sombre hue of the rocks, and forming at 
once a scene, wild, interesting, and so 
admirably suited to the pensive cast of my 
mind, that with extreme pleasure I could 
have remained there for the day; but 
unfortunately, as is frequently the case, 
in what are falsely*termed parties of 
pleasure, my taste, and that of my com- 
panions, were not exactly similar; for 
though I would have greatly preferred - 
the view of this enchanting spot to that 
of our well-filled table at the hotel, they 
were of a very contrary way of thinking, 
and as it began to draw near the hour 
of dining, they were impatient to resume 
the. way back to the “busy haunts of 
men.” | Slowly and unwillingly T followed 
their steps up the ascent, and turned my 
back upon a spot, which, if you ever pay 
a visit to St. Ann’s Welland Baths, you 
must not fail to see: nor must yeu omit 
walking to.a sweet romantic scene, upon 
the banks of the stream that passes by 
the town, about half a mile from thence, 
wheie the rocks are extremely pictu- 
resque, and which you will readily hear of 
by enquiring for the Lover’s Leap. -. 
My. next excursion was to visit the 
celebrated Peak, or the Devil’s. Cave, 
near Castleton, a village about sixteen 
miles from Buxton, Our party consistéd 
of six persons, all equally desirous to be- 
hold the wonders of this often-talked-of 
Cave. The day was as fine as we could 
have desired it to be, had the power of 
chusing the weather been our own; and 
having set off at an early hour, in order 
to have breakfast at the conclusion of ovr 
ride, and then visit the object of our 
curiosity, we pursued the way in perfect 
harmony and safety, notwithstanding we 
had heard tremendous accounts ‘of the 
frightful precipices, and steep descents, 
we should have to encounter ere we 
could reach the end of our journey. 
These, like many other reports, we found : 
to be greatly exazgerated ; and in spite of 
the steepness of the way descending from 
the moor to Castleton, we’ were much 
gratified by the view presented to our 
sight, when, -after passing on the leit, the 
lofty precipice of rocks and loose gra- 
veily substance usually termed the Shi- 
vering-Mountains, Hope Vale was 
Opened to onr view, and seemed a little 
paradise, compared with ary thing we 
had seen for a considerable time before. 
This vale is not extensive, but it is cul- 
Fae and pretty; and the contrast © 
ormed by its smiling inclosures, and 
verdant meadows, from the bare and 
desolate-looking aspect of the surround~ 
ing hills, is at once striking and peculiarly 
pleasing. Castleton is a very small vile” 
lage, not remarkable for any thing but 
its vicinity to the cave we were about te 
Visit, 4. as 
Breakfast being over, we found the 
party encreased to the number of four- 
teen, hesides some attendants, and the 
ordinary guides; and sallying forth to the 
entrance of the cave, we entered wheve 
it is arched over-by a rock of about forty 
syards in height, formed by Nature at the 
foot of a cragey precipice, surmounted by 
a high hill, on which are the remains of 
a castle, fast hastening to decay. Within 
this arch is a spacious cavern of nearly 
an hundred yards in length, and very 
lofty, the roof of which is composed of 
darkish-coloured stone,.and conveys an 
awful feeling to the mind of the specta- 
tor, who there beholds a number of his 
fellow. mortals immured within this dis- 
mal abode of wretchedness and pe- 
hury, carrying on a manufactory of 
packthread, by means of the light that 
enters at the opening of the cave ; for all 
‘beyond is dark as imagination can pic- 
ture. One woman assured us she had 
lived upwards of half a century mm that 
place, and never had the curiosity to 
venture a mile from it: a sure proof, you 
will say, that the failig of our first par- 
ent does not extend in full force through 
every succeeding generation. Yet not- 
withstanding her stationary life, she 
wore the hue of health, and the air of 
cheerfulness and contentment; a_ proof. 
likewise, that happiness is a plant of 
common growth, resting principaliy on 
the imagination, and easily disengaged 
from the weeds that surround it, if a lit. 
tle trouble only is bestowed upon the 
searchforthem. Butto return: towards. 
the farther end of this cavern, the ground 
slopes to nearly the edge of a stream, 
that winds the whole way along to its 
extremity, and a rock of considerable 
magnitude blocks up the passage, save 
by a low arch across the water, beneath 
which each of the. visitors is ferryed 
over In a narrow boat, pushed forward 
by one of the guides, who areall supplied 
with lights, asin Poole’s Hole, in order 
to display the wonders of the place. 
When landed on the farther side, (whicls 
is a work of time if the party is nume- 
. Send) ¢ rous, 
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