1810.] 
‘yous, as one person only with conve- 
mience can cross at once) we again as- 
sembled, and proceeded to another and 
a yet more spacious cavern, from which 
there are several openings, so high in the 
rock that the eye cannot discern their 
extent; but which the children in the 
neighbourhood are used to climb with 
the agility of young goats: and as we 
entered another lofty apartment, after a 
second crossing of the stream upon the 
shoulders of the guides, we were sere- 
naded from the top of one of the highest 
ledges of the overhanging jirecipice by 
a troop of youthful sangsters, ranged in 
order on their elevated station, bearing 
each a candle in his hand, and chaunt- 
ing an hymn, which, though neither har- 
monious nor beautiful, was well enuygh 
adapted to the place, and had really not 
an unpleasing effect, From thence we 
again passed underneath some arches of 
different dimensions, and entered a third 
Jarge cavern, known by the name of 
Roger Rain’s House, from the continual 
dropping of water from its roof and 
sides ; and again descending about fifty 
yards, we reached a hollow called the 
Devil’s Cellar, where visitors often kindle 
a fire, and regale themselves with punch, 
or negus. We did not however partake 
of such enlivening beverage; but pro- 
ceeding onwards, still descending by the 
edge of the narrow stream, arrived at 
the last large cavity, denominated the 
Bell, from its shape; when, continuing 
our route, we reached the extremity, 
where the rock descends to within a few 
inches of the water, and as the guides 
assured us, is above an hundred and fifty 
yards beneath the surface of the hill, and 
about eight hundred from the entrance 
to the cave. We had now arrived at the 
end of our journey, and deemed ouar- 
selves fortunate in having been able to 
go so far, as parties are frequently un- 
able to penetrate beyond the second or 
third cavity in the rock, owing to the 
quantity of water in the place, which is 
suid to rise and subside likewise very 
suddenly. As we had all carefully 
guarded against the effects of cold and 
damp, we were none of us incommeded 
by either; and after surveying all that 
was deservirg of notice in this really 
wonderful place, we returned to the inn, 
an of a slight repast, and reached 
BDuxton at an early hour in the evening, 
more gratified by our excursion than is 
always the case upon parties of a like 
nature, where disagreements in taste 
and sentiment frequently render that 
Letters of a Wanderer through England and Wales. 
215 
which was intended as a_ pleasurable 
scheme, one uf pain, vexation, and mor- 
tification, if not of serious differences. 
This cave is certainly very deserving of 
a visit, as a great natural curiosity ; but 
there are others in Yorkshire, and on the 
borders of Derbyshire, which are, in my 
opinion, better worth the seeing, and of 
some of which I shall hereafter have it 
in my power to give you a short descrip- 
tion; in the meanwhile, I shall merely 
add of the Peak, that from the total 
darkness, and the uncertain glimmering 
light of a few candles, -it cannot be 
viewed to advantage; that is, its height 
cannot be properly ascertained, and con- 
sequently the feeling and awe which 
would naturally be inspired by its lofty 
caverns, must fall far short of what it 
would be if seen more clearly, which 
might easily be effected by means of a 
few torches, or flambeaux. As for any 
beauty of spar, or incrustations on i¢s 
sides or roof, the visitor need not expect 
‘to behold the least; for the constant 
moisture within its recesses, occasions a 
sliminess upon the rocks, and totally 
prevents any lustrous appearance froma 
becoming visible to the eye. 
' There is another cave accounted a 
great curiosity, which may be visited 
either in going to, or returning from Cas- 
tleton. It is known by the name of El- 
don Hole: but a visit thither not being 
deémed so safe as to the one just des 
scribed, it 1s not so much known, nor 
talked of. Our next excursion was to 
Chatsworth, the seat of the duke of 
Devonshire, situated on an eminence, 
above the river Derwent, which winds ia 
beautiful meanders through an extensive 
park, and is crossed by a handsome 
stone bridge, not far from a comfortable 
inn, called Edonsor, where we breake 
fasted after our ride over the dreary 
moors .from Buxton, and thence pro- 
ceeded to view the house and gardens 
which are laid out in the old-fashioned 
French taste, with parterres of flowers, 
artificial cascades, fountains, and all the 
unnatural, unmeaning trumpery, once so 
much admired, but. now most happily 
almost entirely exploded. 
By many persons, Chatsworth is ac 
counted a beautiful place; but it is not 
one which would suit your taste more 
than it does mine; for you too are an ads 
mirer of nature's simple scenery, or her 
more sublime features, as they are diss 
played in rocks and mountains of enore ~ 
mous magnitude; and it would only ex 
cite your ridicule to behold a copper 
trce, 
