110 Trip from Bayonne, in France, to St. Seba/tian, in Spain, (Sept. 1, 
tecture; but the painter and f{culptor will 
not earn their bread by their profeffions. 
No painting flourifhes there, but fhip and 
houfe painting ; and no ftatue, though it 
feemed to breathe, would excite admira- 
tion, unlefs it were of the ** precious me- 
tals.” But in this, perhaps, the Ameri- 
cans are extremely wife. If, as they fay, 
at prefent they do all that generofity can 
afford, and prudence juftify, they do 
enough, and time will be the fair crite- 
rion to judge, whether they will be be- 
hind-band with any nation in encouraging 
the fine arts, when they fliall have ac- 
quired the means. 
. (To be continued. ) 
— aa 
A TRIP from BAYONNE, i# FRANCE, fo 
ST. SEBASTIAN, 7# SPAIN. 
(Continued from Page 12, No. 118.) 
TRIPs acrofs the PYRENEES, between 
BAYONNE @7d FAMPLONA, 171788. 
UR banker in Bayonne, having 
obligingly given the requifite di- 
reftions to his correfpondent in Pamplona, 
in Spain, in the evening of Sunday, the 
asth of june, 1788, there arrived in 
Bayonne five good Spanifh mules, with 
their owner, and his fervant. Two of 
thefe were intended for ourfelves, a third 
for our fervan', a fourth for our baggage, 
and the fifth to carry alternately the 
owner and his man. 
We accordingly lef. Bayonze about 
ten in the morning of Monday, having 
been detained by unexpected bufinefs to 
fo late an hour, by which we were oblig- 
ed to travel in the greateft heat of the 
day. 
Our fufferings, however, in this refpeét, 
were amply compenfated by our witneff- 
ing, in the opening air, in the gorges of 
‘the mountains, the moft formidable ftorm 
of lightning, thunder, and rain, with 
which the country had been vifited for 
many year's preceding. 
We took the fhorteft courfe- towards 
Pamplona, and after travelling four long 
hours over an uneven country, much 
wooded, but with fome corn and patture 
land, and more heath and fern, arrived 
at a village called, in French, Azzoa, but 
in Bafque, Azzboue, the laf habitation of 
France on that fide. 
The country from Bayonne is better 
peopled than from its appearance might 
be expecied 5 but great part of the inha- 
bitants apply themfelves to a feafaring 
life, and many others find employment 
in Bayonne. 
Svon after fetting out, we pafiey along 
the garden-wall of a chateau, built for 
the Queen-Dowager of Spain, Mary- 
Anne, of Neuberg, who, on the death of 
her hufband, the laft of the Poufe of Auf-_. 
tria, Charles II. chofe to leave that coun- 
try and to refide in France. She accerd- 
ingly fixed on this fituation, where a large 
handfome hou‘e, with good gardens, was 
fitted up, and there fhe lived feveral years 
from 1700. 
From time to time, on our left hand, 
we had pleafing views of the cultivated 
vale of the Niwe, which, rifing in the 
Pyrenees, falls into the Adour, in the 
centre of Bayonne. 
Among the numerous villages on its 
picturefque banks is Uftaritz, where af- 
femble the States of the little country of 
Labourd, fo called from the ancie: t La- 
purdum, which occupied the fite of the 
prefent Bayonne. 
The approach to the Pyrenees is mag- 
nificent, not fo much from the. politive 
elevation of thefe mountains above the 
horizon, although very confiderable, as 
from their relation to the plain country, 
on their north fide. 
Mountains fhooting up into the clouds 
in rocky pinnacles, clothed with rich paf- 
ture below, and with thick foreft above, 
and feparated one from another by deep 
narrow vallies and ravines, all animated 
by brifk running ftreams or torrents ; 
cottages and hamlets fcattered over their 
bafes and fides, with little cultivated {pots 
-and orchards around them: thefe are {ome 
features of the fcenes which delight the 
traveller in this tract. The awful gran- 
deur of the thundersftorm was an inci- 
dental ornament, for which we were not 
prepared, otherwife we fhould not pro- 
bably have chofen to behold it. 
Ainhoué is a large village fituated in 
the midft of an elevated but extcnfive 
plain, in the heart of the Pyrenees. The- 
environs pjoduce a little wheat, but more 
maiz, or Indian wheat, and a little poor 
wine. 
Here are ftationed a few invalids to ex- 
amine the pafiports and baggage of thofe 
who pafs out of France for Spain. He 
who accofted us was a. curiofity in his 
kind. He was by birth a German: he 
had picked up a little Englifh while he 
was a foldier in an Ivifh regiment in the 
* 
Spanifh fervice, from which he had lately 
deferted to that of France, and was now 
employed in acquiring the French and the 
Bafque. : 
Yet this poor fellow had never dreamt 
of commencing mafter of languages ; and. 
boys his faculties {9 meekly, that his ut- 
2 mot 
