PHALAENOPSIS 
There are few flowers of the Spray type in the Orchid Kingdom that create more 
admiraticn than the graceful Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid). They are truly a her- 
ald of Spring and have excellent lasting qualities. Often lasting for several months 
beginning to open in early February and still flowering during May and June. When 
the flower spike is cut when nearly open and above the third or fourth node (stem 
joint on the flower spike) it will often throw ancther secondary spray. The flowers 
can be taken as they open to adorn my ladies’ gown or hair and for weeks to come, 
have fresh flowers, as the remaining buds open. 
Another virtue of the Mcth Orchid is its willingness to grow quickly and mature 
earlier than its noble ally the cattleya. Generally in three to four years a seedling 
will flower with its first spray of 6 to 10 flowers. The record is something like 
18 months from seed sowing to flowering. Along with its early maturity the Moth 
-orchid requires less light and can be grown in shady locations where other orchids 
would not grow and flower. Also it may be hung above other plants to save bench 
space for cattleyas. The only true requisite for fine culture is not to let the tem- 
perature drop below 62 to 65 in Winter at night. The higher figure is the better 
for growth and flowers. 
This is one orchid that will take fertilizing with almost any formula devised by 
man that will not cause burning or dehydration by being too strong. Weak solutions 
of liquid dairy manure—blood—sheep manure or what have you, during the grow- 
ing season after repotting and reot action has started, will greatly assist this robust 
fleshy leaved orchid. This may be applied once every two weeks or once a month 
until the flower spike shows. Every good Phalaenopsis grower has his own pet 
treatments so you will have to experiment to see which method meets your success. 
When using straight organic fertilizer as above mentioned it is helpful to balance 
the nitrogen by using some superphosphate and potash (wood ashes) in the brew. 
Just remember, weak applications often are better than an over-dose once a year. 
Seme growers prefer to use the balanced inorganic formulas that are offered as 
plant foods under various trade names. The nutrient formulae for sowing orchid 
seed is fine but need not be made with chemically pure salts. We recommend 
Wilson’s Orchid Fertilizer. 
The orchid pests of the Moth orchid are not difficult to control. Generally spong- 
ing the plants two or three times a year will keep them clean of scale. Use any 
mild insecticide (Wilson’s O. K.) or just nicotine sulphate with ivory soap flakes 
(40 per cent Nicotine sulphate 1 oz. to 3 gal. of water). Soap enough to make 
water wet the foliage smoothly. Pour excess out of crowns. Ants often are a pest 
by carrying mealy bugs up onto the flower stems and crown of the plant. Control 
the ants and the mealy bugs wen’t have a chance after you sponge them off. You 
may place cotton around the flower stem to prevent them climbing to the flowers. 
Chlordane is the wonder ant killer used as a dust or spray on ground and benches. 
Phalaenopsis may be repotted every year after flowering or every two years. 
Here again every grower develops his own preferences. They may be grown in 
almost any type of container and they will do well. Some people like wooden bas- 
kets, others clay pots or bamboo or cypress rafts—cocoanut husks—tree fern blocks. 
They do not need to be potted quite as firmly as cattleyas and often like a bit of 
sphagnum moss to hold moisture. Place charcoal and broken clay pot pieces through- 
out the osmunda to insure good drainage and aeration. The lighter brown osmunda 
mixed with some dark works out well. 
There is just one thing about the Moth orchid—if you like orchids at all you will 
like this genera. If you can and like to grow orchids you can grow these with a 
minimum of effort. 
28 Greenhouses at Mandarin on the St. Johns River 
