ORCHIDS FOR THE HOME 
We are often asked if it is feasible to grow orchids in the home. This 
question may occur to any plant lover cultivating a few geraniums, 
African violets, etc. on a window ledge in the home. We try to explain 
this so that you may form your own answer. 
To begin with, orchid plants are not frail, delicate or sensitive. They 
are, in fact, very tough, rugged plants that have won out in the struggle 
for survival of the fittest in the jungle. 
You need not and should not attend them with the care and appre- 
hension you would bestow upon an ailing infant, or stay up with them 
at night. Sometimes it gets excessively hot in our location, much hot- 
ter than in their native home. Again, during several misadventures, 
the temperature in our orchid houses registered 40 degrees. Neither 
extreme seemed to make any difference to the plants. Too long a con- 
tinuation of such conditions would be harmful and is at no time recom- 
mended, but the point is, the plants are definitely not sensitive. 
Certain conditions for culture are essential and must be observed. 
Location: preferably an eastern exposure. Southern is good but 
requires more shading. In summer (June through August), most plants 
can have full sunlight until 9:30 am. If the exposure is southern, 
use light shading, such as gauze or cheesecloth, between 9:30 a.m. and 
4:00 p.m. on sunny summer days. In winter, full hight generally will 
not burn the foliage. 
Humidity: see Phalaenopsis Culture II a, p. 28. In winter, spray on 
sunny mornings, or when compost is dry. In summer, spray on sunny 
mornings and again in mid-afternoon if very warm (over 80). Allow 
plants to dry out between waterings, summer or winter. Remember 
that spraying means sprinkling lightly; watering means soaking thor- 
oughly. Let your schedule for watering be determined by the dryness 
of the compost. This schedule may vary from every 4 to every 12 days. 
The more frequent schedule is necessary during long dry spells in sum- 
mer, or if there is excessive artificial heating in winter. The less fre- 
quent schedule is followed when natural humidity slows up the drying 
of the compost. This happens during rainy or cloudy spells. When 
buds start to open, cut down water. Spray only compost every 3 or 4 
days; avoid wetting flowers. 
When plant has finished flowering, repot in next size pot if the plant 
has no more room for new growths. Allow plant to rest about 10 days 
before resuming regular spraying and watering schedule. 
Provide circulation of air without sudden drafts. Maintain a tem- 
perature of 60 at night and 70 during the day. Higher daytime temper- 
atures will do no harm. 
A Wardian case (a glass box fitted with an automatic heating unit 
and a tray of water) is recommended for maintaining greater uni- 
formity of temperature and humidity. See article in American Orchid 
Society Bulletin, February, 1950. 
Feeding of orchids is still in an experimental stage. However, it has 
been found helpful to feed seedlings and mature plants with a chemical 
fertilizer, such as Wilson’s Orchid Fertilizer, once every 3 to 4 weeks 
in spring and summer. 
and Boynton Beach on the Gulf Stream 41 
