SWEET CORN 
Packet 10c 
Sweet Corn requires considerable space and may be grown in almost 
all parts of the United States. It does well on any good garden soil. 
In as much as Sweet Corn passes the peak of quality stage rather 
quickly, it is desirable to make successive plantings. The sugar content 
of green corn decreases very rapidly after harvest, thus freshly gath- 
ered corn is much superior. If you have never eaten Sweet Corn that 
was cooked immediately after gathering, you’ve missed a real treat. 
One of the enemies of Sweet Corn is the Corn Ear Worm. To combat 
this, dust the silk with a 5% D. D. T. dust. Do this two or three times. 
Or mix %4 pint of 25% D. D. T. emulsiable solution with two pints of 
white mineral oil (40 to 90 seconds Saybolt Viscosity). Shake well then 
add water to make a total of one gallon, and spray at full silk stage. 
*STOWELL’S EVERGREEN. This is the standard main crop variety. It is 
exceptionally tender and sugary. Length of ear, 74% inches; number of rows, 
14-20; days to maturity, 94. 
COUNTRY GENTLEMAN (Shoe Peg). Ears large, kernels small but deep 
and without any row formation. It matures late. Length of ear, 8 inches; 
days to maturity, 90. : 
EXTRA EARLY ADAMS. The very earliest. Ears 6 to 7 inches long, slightly 
tapered, 10 to 14 rows of creamy white kernels of good quality. Days to 
maturity, 71. 
TRUCKER’S FAVORITE. Ears 8 to 9% inches long, cylindrical with 10 to 16 
rows of medium deep, ivory white kernels of medium depth and good quality. 
Days to maturity, 84. 
*GOLDEN BANTAM. Yellow. Rather early variety, very tender and sweet, 
with rich flavor. Matures early and is comparatively free from worms. 
Length of ear, 64% inches; number of rows, 8; days to maturity, 78. 
HYBRID SWEET CORN 
Hybrids are tailor-made, and therefore an improvement on the open 
pollinated varieties. But select the varieties that do best in your locality. 
The best ones are superior in yield and quality. Do not save the seed 
of hybrids for planting. The seed is no longer a hybrid and will not come 
true. 
YELLOW 
*GOLDEN CROSS BANTAM (Yellow). Matures about 8 to 10 days later than 
Golden Bantam. Length of ear, 8 inches; number of rows, 12; days to ma- 
turity, 82. 
MARCROSS. An early, large eared, wilt resistant market hybrid. Rows are 
straight, fairly well filled tips and heavy husk coverage. Plants are 5-5% 
feet and well rooted. Length of ear, 7-74 inches; number of rows, 10-14; 
days to maturity, 72. 
CARMEL CROSS. Large gently tapering eared, wilt resistant, early market 
yellow hybrid. Length of ear, 7 inches; number of rows, 12-14; days to ma- 
turity, 78. 
ILLINOIS No. 10. A vigorous, drought resister, tolerant to short days and 
cool weather. Stalks 7 feet tall, ears 8 inches long with 12 to 16 rows. Ker- 
nels golden color, fairly tender and sweet. Days to maturity, 80. 
1IOCHIEF. All American Selection Gold Medal 1951. Very productive, drought 
resistant, vigorous, with very few suckers. Stalks 6% feet tall, ears 8% 
inches long with 14 to 18 rows. Kernels bright golden yellow, deep, tender 
and of fine flavor. Days to maturity, 83. 
1OANA. An All American. The delicious flavor makes loana very popular. 
Ears about 8 inches long with 12 to 16 rows of deep, rather narrow, light 
yellow kernels. Days to maturity, 87. 
TENDERGOLD. Somewhat earlier than Golden Cross Bantam. Ears nearly 
cylindrical, 13, inches in diameter with 12 to 16 rows of tender, golden 
yellow kernels. Days to maturity, 81. 
WHITE 
*HYBRID EVERGREEN (White). Plant similar to Evergreen, but more ten- 
der. Grains semi-narrow, plant dark green. Length of ear, 8 inches; num- 
ber of rows, 12-16; days to maturity, 90. : 
HYBRID COUNTRY GENTLEMAN. Retains all the good quality of this long 
time favorite but is more productive and more resistant to drought. Days 
to maturity, 98. ‘ 
GOLDEN CROSS BANTAM 
DETROIT DARK RED 
Undoubtedly some garden soils are so rich 
as to need no fertilizer, but these are excep- 
tions. Vegetables do best when well fed and 
this means fertilizers. Manure is always a good 
garden fertilizer, but is not available for all 
farm garden and very inconvenient to obtain 
for city gardens. 
Some vegetables do best when more than 
normal quantities of certain fertilizing elements 
are applied. For instancé, leafy crops like spin- 
ach, cabbage and lettuce often require higher 
percentage of nitrogin while root crops such 
as beets. carrots, etc., need a higher percentage 
of potash. 
For all practical purposes a good 5-10-5 com- 
mercial fertilizer such as Vigoro or Vertagreen 
will satisfy the needs of most vegetables, flow- 
ers and grasses. 
An excellent way to apply a 5-10-5 fertilizer 
is to broadcast it evenly over the garden at 
the rate of three pounds per 100 square feet 
and rake or harrow it into the top 3 or 4 inches 
of soil, or it can be side dressed alongside the 
rows. With this method a pound should treat 
about twenty feet of row. Do not let the fer- 
tilizer come in direct contact with the plants 
and stir it into the soil. 
There are now a number of concentrated sol- 
uble fertilizers which are very effective plant 
boosters. These are mixed with water and the 
solution is applied at the base of the plants. 
These are also sprayed on the leaves for leaf 
feeding, but root feeding seems the more nat- 
ural process. 
In thinking of ‘‘beauty in the garden,’’ we 
naturally think of flowers, but a vegetable gar- 
den can be beautiful, too. 
First of all, don’t make your garden too large, 
in other words, don’t bite off more than you 
can chew. 
Lay it out carefully, keep the rows absolutely 
straight. If a planter is used, the first row 
should be marked off with ‘a line to get it 
straight, and after that the marker on the 
planter will enable the operator to make 
straight rows. If the garden is planted by 
hand, a line should be used to get the rows 
straight. Set a stake at each end and tightly 
stretch a cord over the row. Rows should be 
marked off in some convenient way to open 
up a shallow trench in which to plant the seed. 
If many rows of the same width are to be 
planted by hand, it will pay to make a hand 
marker about four rows wide. Then the first 
row can be marked by a line and the others 
made by keeping one foot of the marker in the 
last row, marking three rows each time. 
A marker can be made quickly and cheaply 
by taking a piece of board or ‘2 by 4’’ long 
enough to cover the four rows, and nailing four 
legs onto it at the distances wanted between 
the rows. The legs should be about 4 inches 
wide and rounded or bluntly pointed at the 
lower end to mark off the rows. A handle 
should be nailed and braced to the cross-piece 
and be long enough so the operator can walk 
in front of the marker. Different row widths 
can be had by changing the position of the 
legs on the cross-piece. This simple outfit is 
a time saver and convenient to use. 
A small, clean garden, free of weeds, will 
give you much more pleasure and much greater 
satisfaction than a large one in which the con- 
stant fight to keep ahead of the weeds, be- 
comes a nightmare. 
Follow the idea of contour farming by mak- 
ing your rows across the natural flow of water. 
If your garden slopes in more than one direc- 
tion, lay out your rows accordingly. Don’t let 
the water flow down the rows. 
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