38 BLANCHARD GARDENS 
GENERAL CULTURAL SUGGESTIONS 
Following are a few vital facts pertinent to the sub- 
ject of successful chrysanthemum culture: 
SOIL CONDITIONING—The chrysanthemum is a 
gross feeder. It is, therefore, necessary that the soil in 
which it is to be planted contains a sufficient amount of 
plant food to supply, without the aid of too frequent 
applications of liquid or commercial fertilizer, the de- 
mands of a long growing season. If in doubt as to the 
fertility of your land, we suggest that you work in with 
it a thoroughly rotted manure, well in advance of 
planting date and in quantities commensurate with the 
soil in question. Loose, sandy soil, particularly when of 
a nature unquestionably deficient in organic matter, 
should receive a heavier application per unit of space 
than that required by the same unit of space in a 
heavier and more productive soil. 
The nature and amount of plant food to be used dur- 
ing the growing season can best be judged by the 
character of your soil and the variety and condition 
of the plants to be treated. Avoid the hazards of over- 
fertilization. Discontinue feeding when buds begin to 
show color. 
PLANTING—Early planting is an important factor 
in the timely formation of a robust root system, a pre- 
requisite to the growth of strong, sturdy plants and 
quality flowers. When seasonal blooms are desired at 
an advanced date it is doubly important that planting be 
done early in order that plants may attain sufficient 
height to permit the taking of crown buds. (SEE BUD 
SELECTION.) 
WATERING—Variation in the composition of soils 
and variation in climatic conditions, due to geograph- 
ical differences, render the matter of watering a prob- 
lem for local study and solution. However, here are 
a few salient points ever to be kept in mind if you are 
to avoid the consequences of a careless, haphazard plan 
of irrigation. 
We cannot emphasize too strongly the necessity of 
keeping the roots of your plants moist at all times. To 
subject them to a drought, however slight, will cause 
a sudden check in growth, a setback that may later be 
responsible for a host of trouble—the appearance of 
rust, mildew, blighted or blackened foliage and the 
premature hardening of wood, premature setting of 
buds with a sequence of partially developed and mis- 
shapen flowers. 
Avoid overwatering as it is apt to lead to equally 
disastrous results. Confine your irrigation activities to 
a time of day sufficiently early to allow superficial 
drying of foliage before nightfall. 
STOPPING — When the young plant has become 
firmly established—normally within a period of two 
weeks from planting date—pinch out the top. This 
simple operation is Known as “stopping” and will bring 
about the formation of three or more new shoots, the 
subsequent handling of which must be governed by 
whatever plan you may have for their future dispo- 
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sition. In order to dwarf your plants, make them bush 
out, and to increase their yield of blooms it may be 
necessary to “stop” them a number of times, the 
proper number to be determined by the particular 
variety of plant in need of such attention and the speci- 
fic result desired. 
RESTRICTION OF LATERAL GROWTH—A plant, 
when allowed to retain no more than one, two or three 
stems, will develop much larger blooms than it will if 
permitted to grow without restriction. This is especi- 
ally true of the large flowering types—exhibitions, com- 
mercials, spidery sorts and some of the larger anemones. 
When the plant’s energy, governed as it is by the 
amount of needed elements it assimilates from the soil, 
is used in feeding a profusion of growth, we cannot well 
hope to obtain maximum results as regards size, color 
or shape of bloom. 
Excellent results may be had by raising four, six or 
eight disbudded blooms on plants of the larger pompon, 
anemone and single types suitable for the purpose, the 
number to be chosen varying with the type and variety 
of plant. 
BUD SELECTION—Early in August many varieties 
produce a cluster of buds, the central and larger of 
which is termed the early or crown and the encircling 
buds vegetative. For exhibition types and many of the 
large commercials, it is desirable to ‘“‘take’ the crown 
bud. 
While the term ‘take the bud’’ may be enshrouded 
in ambiguity, it simply involves the mechanics of re- 
moving the buds not to be used and reserving the one 
chosen as the best for development. Therefore, if you 
wish to ‘‘take’’ the crown bud, you remove the en- 
circling buds and reserve the one in the center. 
If it is desirable to use what is commonly Known as 
the terminal bud, the foregoing operation is reversed. 
The central or crown bud and all but one of the encirc- 
ling or vegetative buds are removed. From the remain- 
ing bud will spring a vegetative growth that will in 
time produce another cluster of buds, the central one 
of which should be ‘‘taken”’ or reserved and all others 
removed. 
All crown buds, excepting those from plants of an 
extremely early blooming habit, appearing in the 
months of May, June and July, should be removed 
along with all excess lateral growth. It is also necessary 
to keep all axilary and basal growth broken out. The 
plant should be given a thorough going over at fre- 
quent intervals in order to keep it free from all 
superfluous growth, thus insuring a minimum waste of 
plant energy. 
SPRAYING—The chrysanthemum is not immune to 
damage frequently caused by the uncontrolled activities 
of a variety of common insect pests; neither is it secure 
against the inroads of malignant fungi that may find in 
it a beneficent host unless preventative measures are 
eee It is therefore wise and prudent to start spraying 
early. 
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