KALE OR BORECOLE 
Early fall or spring sowing. Either in 
rows or broadcast. To produce large 
plants have rows 2’ apart and thin to 
2’ in rows, Leaves are best after coming 
of cool weather in fall. 
DWARF BLUE CURLED SCOTCH — Wide 
spreading, fine curled blue-green plant 
plume-like leaves. Used as a vegetable and 
for ornament, Exceptionally uniform, 55 
days. 
KOHLRABI 
Sow seed in early spring or fall and 
when well established thin to 6” apart 
in the row. Even better to start it in 
beds and transplant same as cabbage. 
Planting at intervals of 10 days gives 
tender bulbs until hot weather. Must be 
used when young. Woody when old. 
WHITE VIENNA EARLY (fr)—8 to 10-in. 
leaves on slender stems. Bulbs 2 to 3-in., 
._ globular light green. Crisp, tender, clear 
white flesh, 55 to 60 days. 
LEEK 
LARGE AMERICAN FLAG—An early, popu- 
lar variety, with thick, long white stems, 
leaves large and drooping, medium green, 
130 days. 
LETTUCE 
Keep lettuce growing rapidly for best 
results. A light, rich soil needed for 
this. Earliest varieties must be started 
from seed in cold-frame. As soon as 
open ground can be worked, transplant 
For later use, sow seed in open ground 
as soon as weather is favorable. Thin 
plants in rows 4” to 8” depending on 
variety. 
Remember that lettuce is a fast-growing, 
rich feeding crop. Give it plenty of water. 
And use your compost or well-rooted 
manure liberally on the lettuce row. A 
light sprinkling of nitrate of soda will 
pay, too, because lettuce thrives on lots 
of nitrogen. 
Heading or Cabbage 
BIBB—Early, small headed lettuce of ex- 
cellent quality and flavor. Perfect for home 
gardens. Very smooth, dark green leaves, 
bleaching to yellow. 
BIG BOSTON OR MAMMOTH BOSTON — 
Popular for cold frame forcing and outside 
culture. Medium, compact, heads with 
creamy yellow heart. Smooth, glossy leaves, 
edges wavy, and slightly tinged with red- 
dish brown, 75 days. 
GREAT LAKES — ALL-AMERICA AWARD. 
An outstanding new Iceberg or Crisp-head 
type. A summer lettuce that stands heat 
well and is very resistant to tip burn, Heads 
medium, solid. 
ICEBERG—Late, large variety. Compact 
heads, crumpled, crisp and sweet, Leaves 
light green, slightly brown on edges, 85 
days. 
IMPERIAL NO. 847 (FLORIDA ICEBERG)— 
Heads are of good size and solid. Does well 
in hot weather, and resistant to tip burn. 
Hardy. 83 days. 
NEW YORK NO. 12—The standard crisp- 
head lettuce, Large globular shaped head, 
dark green with blanched, silvery white 
heart. Successfully grown outdoors spring, 
summer and fall. Edible in 85 days. 
WHITE PARIS COS OR TRIANON—Medium 
large self-folding dark green loaf shaped 
heads, Greenish-white, well blanched in- 
terior. 66 days. 
Loose Leaf Varieties 
BLACK SEEDED SIMPSON — Light green, 
frilled and crumpled, 45 days. 
GRAND RAPIDS—Erect, compact plants. 
Light green, broad heavily fringed. For 
forcing or early planting. 43 days to ma- 
turity. 
OAK LEAF—The most popular leaf lettuce 
for home gardens. Rich, dark green leaves, 
tender and delicious, Fine resistance to hot 
weather. 
PRIZEHEAD—Early non-heading sort. Me- 
dium sized plants, crisp and tender, Color 
light brown on a medium green base, 
Leaves frilled at edges, and crumpled. 47 
days. 
SALAD BOWL — All America Gold Medal 
Award for 1952, Delicious bowl-full of rich 
green and decorative leaf lettuce, 
10—N 
Uy 23 
LS 19 I iG 17 1 i? I I 
Ske ETT HOME GARDENING GUIDE By norma 
SELECTING THE SITE 
If possible select your garden site 
near the house and close to a water 
supply. It should be in an area 
which has at least six hours of sun- 
shine daily, The convenience of ac- 
cess plus the opportunity of frequent 
observation of your garden are dis- 
tinct advantages in having it close 
by. 
Moving the garden hose is much 
easier if your site is near a water 
outlet. All vegetables are extremely 
high in moisture content and regular 
watering during dry spells is very 
important to insure a high yield, 
If your garden is to be located on a 
slope, plan your rows to run later- 
ally on the slope. Rows that run 
down-hill will wash away valuable 
fertilizers and top soil during heavy 
rains, Also the water runs away 
without fully benefiting your gar- 
den, 
Garden Will Grow if Weeds Do 
That the site should have fertile, 
deep and workable top soil is ob- 
vious. Most soils can be made pro- 
ductive with proper treatment, If 
grass or weeds grow fairly well on 
the area, there is reasonable hope 
that your garden, too, will respond 
to proper care. 
If your space is limited, better omit 
crops like peas, corn and potatoes 
that need lots of room, And go slow 
on crops that you can buy in equal 
quality on the market, like potatoes, 
late cabbage and winter squash, In- 
stead, favor the delicately flavored 
vegetables like leaf lettuce, early 
cabbage, green beans and summer 
squash that can never be shipped 
without some loss of quality, 
WHY FERTILIZE? 
Fertilizers contain matter that gives 
help to living soil micro-organisms 
which break down decayed matter 
into the chemical elements Nitrogen, 
Phosphoric Acid, and Potash, the 
important big three in soil fertility. 
With these three elements plus mois- 
ture and the right temperatures you 
can grow anything. 
Balanced fertilizers contain all three 
of these soil elements and with prop- 
er soil acidity or alkalinity make a 
highly productive garden possible; 
of course, with proper weather help. 
Loess, a strange soil formation in 
Eastern Europe and Northern China, 
contains a world of soil, but it is 
without fertility and therefore life- 
less. Without these three important 
elements that assist and make micro- 
organisms created by the fertilizer, 
there can be nothing that will give 
roots for your planted seed to sus- 
tain itself. 
“Black Soil'’ is a misnomer, Soil 
color has nothing to do with fertil- 
ity. Loess is black, yet it grows 
nothing, Fertilizers help those bugs 
and microscopic plants that make 
plant growth possible. Fertilize, Fer- 
tilize, Fertilize. It has paid off in pro- 
ductive results as far back as any- 
body can remember, 
Fertilizer must not come in contact 
with the seed or roots. Fertilizer 
may be applied along the rows ina 
band about 3 to 4 inches wide and 
about 2 inches from the line of 
seeds. Do this by scooping out a 
wide furrow about 2 inches deep 
with a good-sized common hoe and 
then distributing the fertilizer uni- 
formly along the row. 
Mix fertilizer thoroughly with top 
soil and cover about 2 inches deep. 
This is the most efficient way to use 
fertilizer. 
‘‘Lettuce’’ grow Lettuce, Suggests Old Gardener 
There’s nothing that 
looks quite so pret- 
ty and is probably 
considered less for 
ff\sa00d eating than 
: +} \ lettuce. Take away 
that crisp, pretty 
green lettuce that 
makes a salad and 
you're right down to Cole Slaw which 
is good alright, but quite a ways from 
good eating on a steady diet basis. 
The kind of lettuce you can grow at home 
—-really crisp, fresh leaf lettuce—is the 
kind every master chef sighs for and 
can't get. As soon as your soil is work- 
able, plant a row of black Seeded Simp- 
son, or Oak Leaf. Or if you like head 
lettuce, try Big Boston, a butterhead full- 
flavored kind you can't buy on the mar- 
ket. 
That new salad bowl lettuce is what I’m 
working on this year for a change. 
Hot weather is hard on most lettuce, but 
try Great Lakes: you'll be surprised how 
well it grows and how slowly it bolts 
to seed. And you'll be delighted with 
its good crisp head lettuce flavor. 
For a real treat, try Oak Leaf. It com- 
bines the wonderful flavor and quality of 
leaf lettuce with the productivity and 
crispness of head lettuce. If allowed to 
stand, it produces loose heads. 
Remember that lettuce is a fast-growing, 
tich feeding crop. Give it plenty of wat- 
er, And use your compost or well-rotted 
manure liberally on the lettuce row, A 
light sprinkling of nitrate of soda will 
pay, too, because lettuce thrives on lots 
of nitrogen. 
