DAHLIADEL CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS 
by Warren W. Maytrott 
POTASH-FED DAHLIAS 
We have had so many requests for our old instruc- 
tions, often termed the “Dahlia Grower’s Bible’, that 
we have rewritten them adding the newer ideas of 
storage and all the minute details regarding pests and 
their control together with what we have learned 
through the years about fertilizing and growing. 
“POTASH-FED DAHLIAS” is not only an established 
trade name, but a modern and successful method of 
growing dahlias so that they are literally alive with 
energy, assuring you of cultural success. In South Jersey, 
with its long growing season, well-ripened stock can be 
produced that will give the best possible results. We 
have found that dahlias grown in the lighter soils for a 
period of from one to three years will do wonderfully 
well when moved to heavier soil conditions with no 
time lost for acclimation. 
Most important of all is the health of stock from 
which your plants, pot roots or roots were grown. 
This condition has its direct effect on the results ob- 
tained; for an unhealthy plant cannot take up potash, 
or any other element of plant food, in sufficient quan- 
tities while in this condition. Hence, a dahlia must be 
healthy before it can be Potash-Fed. You must have 
the best stock that can be produced to have 100% 
success. Buying inferior stock at low cost is not an 
economical way to buy and seldom is the way to 
success. 
CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS 
The following directions are based upon years of ex- 
perience and should be of value in solving many of 
your cultural problems. These ‘suggestions should be 
changed to suit local conditions. However, we sincerely 
believe that the fundamental principles involved will 
apply throughout the country. 
SOIL PREPARATION 
The dahlia will grow and produce excellent results 
in a wide range of soils, other conditions being favor- 
able. It is not so much a matter of soil type as it is 
conditioning. To grow exhibition blooms to perfection, 
the nearer soil can be to ideal the better your results 
will be. Soil should contain enough clay to keep the 
fertility from leaching and also enough sand or stones 
to facilitate drainage. Fifty to sixty-five per cent sand 
_is considered ideal. 
DRAINAGE. The primary factor in growing dahlias is 
that of drainage, which in sandy soils is well taken 
care of, but in heavy soils a quantity of coarse coal 
ashes should be dug in and thoroughly mixed with the 
subsoil. Then coarse manure, straw or litter should be 
mixed into the top-soil. The addition of a good quantity 
of coarse sand will help drainage and aeration won- 
derfully in compact or clayey soil. 
For soggy ‘soil we might suggest ditching 18 or more 
inches deep where the row is to be planted, running 
the ditch with the slope if possible. Fill in with coarse 
ashes, clinkers or any coarse material that will not rot, 
keeping it below spading depth, then fill in top with 
soil mixed with sand or the part of hard coal ashes 
about the size of corn or a little larger. 
LIMING. As a rule, the dahlia does well in a neutral 
to slightly acid soil. Liming not only neutralizes acid, 
but makes the natural humus in the soil available as 
well as loosening heavy soil. Should your soil be in- 
clined to be acid, ground limestone applied at the rate 
of 3 to 5 Ibs. to each 100 square feet is a safe prac- 
tice on medium to heavy soil every 3 or 4 years. 
However, a pH test is advisable. 
Where winters are severe, sow rye or rye grass in 
late September or October. The green crop will do 
no harm during the late blooming season, will winter 
over, and should be turned under about two weeks 
before planting. In New Jersey and further south, rye 
or rye grass can be sowed after digging roots. A cover 
crop will add organic matter, supply humus and further 
adjust soil conditions. Fall fertilizing. If soil is on the 
poor side a top dressing of fresh or composted cow, 
stable or even chicken manure after digging roots in 
the fall or early winter will certainly improve growth 
the following year. Chicken manure, however, should 
be used very sparingly. The above top dressing can be 
used if no cover is planted, adding to it 
4 Ibs. Super-Phosphate 
1 Ib. Muriate or Sulphate of Potash for each 100 
square feet. and working the top-soil over enough to. 
keep the manure and chemicals from being washed 
away. 
A good time to work or spade over the soil, when 
no cover crop was planted, is about a month before. 
planting, digging rather deep and thoroughly breaking; 
up all lumps. Then rake the ground over about once: 
a week to retain moisture. 
LOT he 
